They do and on line as well

 

This is for the later engine but may be of use.

Stuck clutch pedal.

Now here's a thing. Having had about five attempts to reverse into a confined car port with about 10cm clearance either side from the supports (had to fold the mirrors when straight) and a restricted area to the front that gives you also about 10cm clearance to allow you to turn to straighten...

www.kugaownersclub.co.uk

 

Psshaw, is the mk 2 sufficiently close to my mk1 to make that worth a buy?

 

Blooming heck, that’s what screaming kids do for ya, I thought it was the mk1.

I don’t know is the answer as it’s a totally different shape etc but I guess there will be some similarities.

 

There’s this but I took a screen shot for you, so if it’s on line I’m not sure.

 

Nothing difficult for the clutch and flywheel swap. Once all the bits are off and the gearbox bolts are out pull the box a couple of mm out and push the diff end up as you pull the box out. Once its out swap everything over and do the process in reverse making sure you have the diff side at about 2 o'clock and it will slot straight in as long as the clutch plate is aligned correctly.

Always use fresh gearbox oil and I always back bleed the clutch so there is no risk of turning a seal. You will get a clutch peddle easy doing it this way.

 

Cheers @johncam, thanks.
A couple more questions;
Are the torque settings available to print off somewhere?
Can the gearbox mount bolts be reused?
Is it worth putting any sort of additive in the gearbox oil? The box only has 60K on it.
Thanks again,
Nick

 

All the bolts are fine to use again. If you replace the dual mass you will get new bolt's in the kit you buy. The torque settings should be easy to find on the Internet but if you get stuck send me your reg via PM and I will get you sorted.

 

As for oil...... just use new oil and make sure it's the correct grade. I wouldn't bother with any additive as the gearbox will be fine unless you put loads of torque through it. They are a very strong box and usually trouble free with oil changes done 50k but that's me being a bit ott.

 

The car works hard with tools in the back and a trailer of bricks or soil or worse and I'd like to keep it so OTT servicing sounds good to me.
Coolant change and brake fluid change once the clutch (and DMF) are done and it will be good as new (once I fix the worn wiring to the tailgate etc etc 😂).
Thanks again,
Nick

 

Engine oil and filter every 6k and all filters every 12k has served me well over the last 35yrs mate. Paid for brakedown cover all those yrs and never used it so my service schedule must be doing something right.

 

Bugger. The £300ish LUK Repset DMF 4 part kits are for every version of a mk1 Kuga except my (oh so rare?) 2010 140hp FWD.
Phone calls tomorrow I guess to see if there is anything out there for my UFDA MMT6 combo.

 

Right, think I've ordered the right Repset DMF for the car, next question, which oil for the MM6T gearbox?
I've always liked Castrol, but do I need FE 75W, or EP 75-90W? I think it is FE 75W but would rather get it right.
I can't seem to find the original Ford oil spec anywhere, for future reference can anyone point me to the relevant webpage where I put in my reg and it spits out the original Ford spec for oils, coolant etc?

 

@Psshaw, I've bought that electronic Haynes and it's great 🙂
Thanks for posting it up, I didn't know they were a thing!

 

Awesome 👍

 

Keep us updated and any photos and Pros/cons would be a great addition to the forum and it could even make into the “how to”.

 

I'm looking for my copy of Roger Melly's Profanosarus so I'll have a full complement of swearwords at my disposal.
My yet to be made transmission jack (NOT A BODGE JOB) will hopefully save my knackered shoulders when it comes to reassembly time.
If the forum could book the weather I'd be grateful, last clutch was my mk2 golf, which was a cold and wet experience

 

Are you on ClubGti by chance?.

 

Certainly am Keith 🙂

Right, tonight's question, given that what I'm going to call the engine output shaft seal has failed, how do I change it?
I'm used to the ones that are mounted in a plate that unbolts from the face of the engine, this just looks pressed in.
Self tappers and a small pry bar?

 

Any preference between BGA and Corteco as far as seal manufacturers is concerned?