@keithmac .

Mine done close to 32k miles, so just did the engine service (oil & filter as posted on another thread)

I am close to thinking to do oils on main gearbox (Spotted drain & fill plug from NSF (UK) from under the wheel arch whilst doing brakes)

So the main gear box & PTU at 41,000 mile service?

I did my old partner van at 70k, and what a difference to the 'feel' of the gearbox.

The spec & quantity is available from oil websites, I'll look it up closer the time.

Not had a coat of looking at regarding the rear diff yet, but I think that is 'sealed for life' that I don't like.

 

For changing diff and PTU oils this link may help https://www.fordescape.org/forum/3g-engine-technical-discussion/109340-ptu-rear-diff-oil-change.html

 

PTU oil 44k miles

 

Maovi - well done, you beat me to it. Did you do the main gearbox as well. (You don't say a manual or auto)

To others - look at the S**T in that! mine if definitely getting done at 41k miles and gearbox.

I don't really think you will tell the difference driving (PTU only oil change) but would sleep better at night.

Now someone tell me that the rear Diff unit won't benefit from a dose of clean oil?

 

MaoVi, what oil did you use for refilling?.

I've had my Powershift gearbox out and the front transfer box is an interesting design.

The AWD torque is transferred via a hollow splined coupling, the off side diff output from the gearbox drives a shaft in the middle of the transfer box and this passes through the centre of the transfer case to the OS driveshaft.

The transfer box is not active/ "dumb", the propshaft is always live and the rear magnetic clutch in the rear diff controls the rear wheel torque output.

Can't see how it would ever get more than a 50/50 torque split to the rear though.

 

Last weekend I did only power transfer unit. You can not fill any difference with driving or noise, but I know it for sure it extends life of this unit. Those very fine sand metal particles on the magnetic drain plug, and bottom in oil, definitely should be cleaned out. Stink this oil was the worst I've ever feel.

For PTU my Ford Dealer recommend 1.06 lt Motorcraft SAE 75W-140. Genuine bottle cost £67 !

So I decided to use different brand. I bought (1 bottle 75W140 GL-5 Red Line) like "escapeforum" users. UK ebay stock auction: 283555719499 with Sealey AK54 Syringe.

I will order as well oils for rear differential and my 6 gears manual gearbox MMT6.

Ford recommend:
.....REAR DIFF...... 1.36 lt Motorcraft SAE 80W-90 (Premium Rear Axle Lubricant)
.....GEARBOX....... 1.75 lt Ford 75W FE (WSS-M2C200-D2)

Red Line alternatives:
2 litres Red Line MT-LV GL-4 (gearbox)
2 litres Red Line 75W-90 GL-5 (rear diff)

All oils are refilled until they comming out. Rear differential haven't got drain plug (oil have to be sucked out and filled by the same plug).

PTU oil change:
https://youtu.be/G8zMXcKk5Es

Escape forum:
https://www.fordescape.org/threads/ptu-and-rear-diff-oil-change.109340/page-3

 

I've used Redline oils in all my manual gearboxes and found it improves gear shifts.

 

I ordered Redline oil for gearbox. In this weekend I change it ?

 

Just to add to what homework MaoVi has said.

the PTU and the rear diff has DIFF oil in. Hypoid oil sometimes called. As per his picture.

I also looked at Castrol website last night.

The high end stuff will have a high friction eliminator content, PTFE, or Teflon for example. To ensure them cogs & bearings slip by easier.

DO NOT put this type of oil in your gearbox. (manual)
The super splippy-ness will effect the syncromesh of the gearbox. The syncromesh does need some friction to do its job.

So Gearbox oil for gearboxes, axle or diff oil for diffs & axles.

 

Redline MTL is for the manual gearbox, used it in my GTO TT, used Redline Shock Proof Heavy in the GTO Transfer Box, maybe a bit overkill for the Kuga PTU?.

 

I think for our Active JTEKT rear diff I'll use the Ford factory fill, theres plated and cone diffs but with the Ford/JTEKT is more like a motorcycle clutch with magnetic clamping.

 

I just exchanged the oil in the gearbox ?
Cost £37.5. All oil service job are very easy with lifting car and tidy up takes 1 hour.
The old oil was more watery at exactly 1600 ml. I poured both bottles ~1900 ml inside and still you can filling more.

It didn't look really bad, anyway gearbox manufacturer Getrag recommended to change it every 5 years / 100k miles.
This "life time fluid" is contaminated by water and metal particles from friction.

Oils are specific for type of unit. Gearbox oil is less slippery for better synchroniser work, also it viscosity is important for proper bearing lubrication (see back label of oil).

 

Paul ja
In rear diff it's possible only partially oil change by fill hole, the easiest way it's sucked out oil by syringe and refill fresh one. I will do it next week and some pictures for you.

keithmac
Redline MT-LV match correct Ford OEM compability number (WSS-M2C200-D2). So without risk you can use it.
Redline MTL it's for other group of gearboxes.

But Redline Shockproof looks very similar like standard 75W140 GL-5 but with better parameters. Prices are very similar so maybe it's marketing? I don't know.

 

The MT-LV must be a recent addition to their range- I haven't seen it before? I've got some of the normal MTL sitting here to go into the wife's cars manual trans.

 

Today I done partially changing oil in rear differential. It wasn't easy to remove old oil because pipe coming through only few cm propably lot of oil it's still on bottom, but I've try thinner and softer pipes to get them deeper in without success.

I suck out only about 600ml oil and refill by 900ml.

I leave it like it is till next year.
Some pictures for you gents ?

 

Good info there

Do we know what the diff oil capacity is ?

 

I have info only from escape forum:

1.36 lt
Motorcraft SAE 80W-90
(Premium Rear Axle Lubricant)

 

I read on Polish forum about this diff. There is 2 section, all plugs are for gears and bearings side, and you can change oil in only in this section (about 1.1 lt oil).

Clutch section are sealed and only way to change oil is desasembly cover and filling oil by bleeder valve after fitting back.

Some inside pictures.

 

As with a few on here there seems to be a confusion between transfer box, rdu and the diff. I have been trying to find out what fluid is used in the clutch pack of the rdu but find no info anywhere, obviously with clutches in there will be some form of friction addative as well as lubricant but not a clue what. As in the pictures there's no drain in for the clutch fluid just a vent pipe at the top which makes any service problematic
.

 

Done my PTU oil change today, at 41,600 miles. Oil similar colour and condition as posted.
Filled to level of fill plug and with a few drips on floor I reckon 480 - 500ml?
It must benefit from a oil change.

Didn't use a syringe, the liter bottle can be shoved up upside down finger on tube and ease it in.
Main gearbox when oil in stock, then tackle the rear diff.

 

I have just drilled the bottom casing of the RDU. Sounds drastic but I've done a good job. Its the capacity I am perplexed at. Drained in a ice cream tub 14cm x 19cm x 2.x cm deep oil. To my calcs that is 532cc capacity, No where near the 1.1 ltr quoted. No leaks and dry as a bone. The casing it n't that big so about 600 cc does seem right. Presume the rest of the capacity is in the front end. Just filling now. Will posts pics & tips later.
The old oil was in need of a change, similar to MaoVi posted.
And whilst I'm down there, a coat of paint on sub frame.

 

Right chaps & chappesses: The RDU got some Daz treatment today.

If you aren't competent about drilling and tapping, Don't try this at home!!

1st:Kit required: I found a plug M14 fine (M14x1.25) and for some reason had a tap to suit. (Its a spark plug thread)
Now not knowing how thick the RDU rear casting was I opted for this thread. See later notes.

Plug removal wotsit: a old 3/8" extension cut down with a decent nut welded on it. Worked well. 25mm long as previous posts.

Then drill the casing, 5mm 1st, then 8 then 12.7mm (1/2 inch for those on old currency) Oil pours out.
The casing was thicker than I was expecting, and if you can see from picture: 4 threads so 3 x 1.25 = 5mm thick!
Surprised me. SO a standard M8x 1.25 would do if doing it again (6.8mm tapping drill)
I tapped the thread and flushed out with stale 2 stroke petrol to remove any swarf.

Plug in: swapped the washer & rubber for 1 x copper washer. Nipped up and ready then Fill.
Now then as per previous post about 540cc came out, but Ford quote 1100 in? With a bit of spillage and filling pipework, Strongly recommend a syringe as I struggled with a pipe and funnel.
I rekcon put 950cc in, lovely golden clean oil, not the dull grey sludge that came out.
Now that must be better for those bits in the dark!

 

Right chaps & chappesses: The RDU got some Daz treatment today.


Now that must be better for those bits in the dark!

Now I thought I was quite innovative on modifications but that looks amazing. Not sure I would want to do what you did although I am confident of drilling and tapping.

Well done and I think I will stick with my 2 wheel drive for a while longer!

 

I'd have gone with a Dowty washer just for a bit of extra insurance but looks a nice neat job!.

Might do ours the same way.

 

The 1st picture is slightly misleading. I did use a soft copper washer eventually and no oil on the drive this morning.

No don't know if a placebo effect, but I think quieter from the rear end.

If I was doing it again, a M8 x 1.25 with a dowty washer would be fine. a M10 x 1.5 would be too coarse a thread I think. If you are unable to make / get a plug removal wotsit I can post in a jiffy bag.

 

mad skiier you did great job, next time your oil change will be much easier, and the biggest benefit of this hole is you remove oil completely and all steel sludges will come out.
Well done!

 

Right chaps had a quick look at the RDU this aft.... And found what is maybe a drain plug, just above where the anti roll bar runs (pic 1) abd pic 2 is the main drain/fill plug. Just wondering what the smaller torx plug is for.

 

Useful thread, thanks to all contributors.

I just changed my PTU and rear diff oil. PTU took about 500ml of TRIPLE QX EP 75w90. Rear diff took 650ml of TRIPLE QX Fully Synthetic 75w140. Oil from PTU was pretty mucky after 95K miles and lots of sludge on the drain plug. I drained the diff by drilling the casing as above, and tapping 8x1.25. To undo the fill plug I too used a cut-down 3/8" impact driver adaptor. I ground it so that it 3/8" all the way along and then held it in place with a small pair of needle nose mole grips whilst turning with a 10mm open ended spanner. Filling both was made easy with a 1 litre pump bottle.

Bob