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6 Speed Powershift 6DCT450 - MPS6 - overhaul due to limited transmission function

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58K views 87 replies 12 participants last post by  keithmac  
#1 ·
Hi all,

looking for some advice, please. I got Ford Kuga 2013 MK II 2.0 TDCi 4x4, and it has been displaying limited transmission function for some time. After diagnosis, I have been advised that I need to either get the Gearbox reconditioning or gearbox replacement done. I have been looking for used recondition powershift gearbox but not sure if the part number for 2013 and others ( 2012,13,14,15 )are the same. Also, I am not sure how can I find the correct part number for my car.

Any suggestion would be very much appreciated.

Many thanks.
 
#2 ·
The only one that will fit is from a Mk2 163ps 2013 or early 2014 NOT a 2014 180bhp (it's completely different).

You would be best off having your own box refurbished by a reputable specialist imho.

London Automatic Transmissions do hundreds of these gearboxes.

A pre 2013 box may fit, I wouldn't chance it personally.

The TCU (gearbox brain) is inside the gearbox, a second hand one may require coding to your car, firmware flashing.

The gearbox you have is prone to a few failures, I wouldn't entertain a 2nd hand unit.
 
#3 ·
Dear Keithmac,

Thanks for the prompt advice, this is very much appreciated.
I asked around for quotes but most of them just give you one price for overhaul or reconditioning without checking what wrong inside the gearbox. There may be just one or two-part broken inside which hopefully will cost a fraction of the full price.

Does anyone have any advice on this please or positive experience of getting this done?

Many thanks,

Stay safe out there.
 
#4 ·
You want it completely rebuilt while it's out. Odds on the plastic damper guides have been eaten and spread through the gearbox.

The internal oil filter requires the casings to be split to replace it, at that point the gearbox is practically fully stripped down anyway.

Nobody would want to do the job twice, that's why they recommend full rebuild.
 
#6 ·
@PankG - Welcome to our forum. There isn't anyone on this forum who knows more about the powershift gearbox than keithmac. It may be an idea to read some of Keith's issues encountered with this gearbox. I would take on board what Keith is telling you.

Out of interest what mileage has your car done and when was the last time the gearbox oil was changed. It's expensive and tends to be missed by owners. It should be done every 3 years or 37,500 miles which means yours should have been done in 2016 and 2019.
 
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#8 ·
Many thanks,

Yes, you are right. I bought my car just after its 3rd year and assumed the gearbox oil was changed on time but found out on a bad way when I got the gearbox oil changed at 45k ( part of 6 yearly servicing). Some knocking sounds from the gearbox prompted me to get the oil changed. During the servicing, they found low gearbox oil and tiny mental particle. It worked fine for another 5k but now it's getting worse.
 
#13 ·
If it's been low on oil and knocking it wants a complete tear down as said above.

The shift solenoid is more than likely fine, it'll be a mechanical issue. Could be a magnet fallen off the shift fork but even that is a full strip.

I don’t think any garage would entertain doing a late model gearbox conversion, mine is the only one ever done as far as I know.
 
#18 ·
I noticed that here's lot of information of powershift. I have year 2011 S-Max powershift ( dct450 mps6 ). There's lot of km's ( 325000 km / 200000 miles ) already but otherwise car is exellent. It's been leaking oil at least 2-3 years. Now I finally decided to find out problem and mainly it looks like its rear crankshaft seal. I read somewhere that gearbox outer seal can leak also so I put UV-liquid to gearbox and checked with UV-light. Don't know anymore how wise it was to add that liquid to gearbox but I'll change oil's anyway. And it was only 45ml.

Now I'm wondering is this big problem because gear box's flange is wobbling a little, see video. Should this be fixed somehow ? On the other hand, I don't want to use much money anymore for this car and I think it's not so big job to take gearbox off so maybe there's no need to anything at this point ?


Also I'm thinking should I change this outer seal ? There's some leaks ( green marks ) but not much, see picture below.


5663


Here's picture of crackshaft seal, it's been leaking as you can see down of seal.
5664
 
#19 ·
The seal is part of that plate, they are expensive.

The clutch hangs off the input shaft so if you remove and inspect the clutch pack you may find the shaft itself has play in the bearings.

If you take the clutch assy to bits it has to be "clocked" when putting it back together, there are special tools available to do this.

I think if you just change the cover plate the new seals won't last long.

5665
 
#20 ·
Thx for replying! I found few sellers on Ebay where those cover plates are quite cheap, Check here . Maybe those were good enough..?
Otherwise I think I'm not doing anything right now. If there's bigger problems in future maybe I'll take gearbox off again and find service which can repair it totally.

Btw. when reinstalling gearbox back, is there any reason to do this step 2 which is in ETIS ? What's the point if I just take gearbox of, replace seals ja install it back to same position.
Why should I open that "bolt" nro.2 and replace it ?


5666
 
#22 ·
I think I can see it where is the correct location for gear box when putting it back.. but what's meaning of that bolt ? I think it's locking bolt but I can't understand what it helps because gearbox flange is rotating anyway ( even I haven't opened bolt )

I think I'm not so skilled that could open that box that long :confused: . At least now when it's working okay. If it would be totally broken it wouldn't matter if I'd open that. Could take it to service if cannot fixit myself :)
 
#23 ·
Just checked this video and realized what's problem in clutch.


The clutch hangs off the input shaft so if you remove and inspect the clutch pack you may find the shaft itself has play in the bearings.
Does this mean that fixing the clutch plastic bits doest help for clutch wobbling ?
If you take the clutch assy to bits it has to be "clocked" when putting it back together, there are special tools available to do this.
But these guys are not using any special tools when putting everything back..?

Maybe I take clutch off and check those plastic parts. I saw that repair set is available for about 100 EUR.
 
#26 ·
I wouldn't be replacing any bits inside my engine or gearbox with anything from Ali Express.
 
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#25 ·
There are many (cheap!) parts @aliexpress, just search for "6dct450" or "mps6".
Will those last ? :unsure:

Just took clutch open. Was so curious to see what's inside. I think it's quite good condition if comparing for driven kilometers.
But checking plastics better I can see there's few small bits inside and at least one is almost broken.
So need to order new plastic set and seal cover. Otherwise bearings felt good for me so I'll just replace those plastics and seal cover.

5682

5683
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#27 ·
Will those last ? :unsure:

Just took clutch open. Was so curious to see what's inside. I think it's quite good condition if comparing for driven kilometers.
But checking plastics better I can see there's few small bits inside and at least one is almost broken.
So need to order new plastic set and seal cover. Otherwise bearings felt good for me so I'll just replace those plastics and seal cover.
In would say you have three broken but the actual number possibly doesn't matter if you are replacing them all.
 
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#32 · (Edited)
Maybe so but how do you chose which comes from a genuine engineering source and which one is a cheap copy of a copy of a copy of a copy using inferior materials and poor quality control.

I wouldn't buy these sort of parts from eBay either unless they were from a genuine motor factor/distributor. In our country we have a programme called Watchdog and Fake Britain. They are there to protect consumers from many things and one of the things it brings to light are dodgy sellers selling fake or inferior goods. One of the last programmes I watched was about car injectors that had been copied so badly they would destroy your engine in time. So next time you need to buy an injector for your car and the one online from a couple of companies where anyone can be a seller, is a quarter of the price from a genuine source, then please feel free to put it in your car. I know I won't. Maybe you won't after seeing this.

 
#33 ·
This is quite tricky because I can't find many sellers for these products. And I think you cannot get these products as OEM so don't have many options. I checked clutch once again and noticed that one spring is broken too. So I think I need to replace both, springs and plastic. But let's wait if @keithmac have idea where could get quality parts. And as I'm living in Finland should get those shipped here also.
 
#34 ·
I now Keith has all the information to help you and know he knows the company in the UK who refurbishes these gearboxes who you could contact for parts. My only concern was that you source them from a decent source. I see that quite a few of the ebay links point to china. I did find this one in Poland.


The gearbox manufacturer is GETRAG in Gernmany so the worse case scenario could possibly to content them and see if they have an agent or distributor in your country.
 
#35 ·
I believe these are an upgrade. As for the springs they do wear (see link at bottom).

You could replace the guides and assess the springs then or just replace the lot.

I don't believe Getrag supply any parts (the gearbox is Ford Transmissions/ Getrag/ Continental/ LUK joint venture), whether LUK designed the entire Basket assy or just supplied the clutch plates I do not know.

You can buy the entire clutch basket assy as a genuine replacement but not any parts inside iirc.

One Stop Gearbox Shop are also great to deal with, they supplied me a brand new Mechatronic unit along with parts for my other gearboxes.

 
#37 ·
Thanks for replies again! I think this Maktrans could be good for me. They are selling China-version and double priced version which is branded for Betaline. I asked if they can give special pricing when ordering clip kit, springs and cover seal but not possible. Cover seal is quite expensive there, but otherwise prices are quite same as everywhere else.
I found this One Stop Gearbox Shop also from Ebay but for me it's little tricky now because of Brexit. I need to pay extra custom if ordering there. Otherwise that shop looks very promising.
@keithmac Can I find spring order in cover somewhere when installing new springs and clips ? I left springs to cover now because I thought that just replace those when getting new parts. Just good to know for sure if I e.g. drop down cover and mix all those parts..
 
#39 ·
Thanks for replies again! I think this Maktrans could be good for me. They are selling China-version and double priced version which is branded for Betaline. I asked if they can give special pricing when ordering clip kit, springs and cover seal but not possible. Cover seal is quite expensive there, but otherwise prices are quite same as everywhere else.
I found this One Stop Gearbox Shop also from Ebay but for me it's little tricky now because of Brexit. I need to pay extra custom if ordering there. Otherwise that shop looks very promising.
@keithmac Can I find spring order in cover somewhere when installing new springs and clips ? I left springs to cover now because I thought that just replace those when getting new parts. Just good to know for sure if I e.g. drop down cover and mix all those parts..
I just take loads of pictures when stripping parts down, there's a few Videos on YouTube if you get stuck.

Just start at one position and work round.

The Betaline guides look like a much better part to me.
 
#43 ·
I got all parts for gearbox today. New plastic clips looked quite good. It was funny to notice after replacing springs and clips that spring setup is much more stiffer than earlier. See video.


But then came hardest part, to get clutch cover locked with iron rim. First I couldn't get it back. It's very hard to install when you need to put it back as it is is gearbox on table. I gave up and took whole clutch out of box. I got it installed when clutch was on table. But then I couldn't get locking ring to right thread. I took clutch open again and put it back to gearbox part by part. Don't know if it helped but after that I got rim back. Seal cover was quite easy to install. I tighten holding clips little and then pushed seal carefully on.

Find out that there was 3 clips broken. One spring was snapped and fourth clip almost broken. So I think it was time to repair those. Hopefully I installed everything back as it should.
Flange is still wobbling a little but I think it's because plastic clips on clutch cover are little loose. I saw somewhere repair kit for those also but I don't know how those can be fixed ( can't find any video for that ) . But I'm not doing anything more at his time. I think it will last few years with this repair, hopefully.

5809
 
#45 ·
Rest of assembly was quite easy. At first try I couldn't get gearbox back to engine but noticed that box was little wrong angle. I change position little and after that it slipped correct place. So no need for special tool in installation. I just measured clutch position it with normal measuring tape.

I have feeling that gear change is little smoother nowadays. And specially when I'm changing from P to D it's smoothier than earlier. I still have tiny oil leak and now I'm not sure where its coming. It's possible that clutch cover is leaking a bit ( because I hadn't tool for that even I tried to be very gently ) or then it's still small leak in rear crank seal. It's quite small so I'm not worried about that one. I need to check gearbox oil level after e.g. 10000km so I can confirm that its not gearbox oil. Or if it's I need to add extra oil some point. Very interesting to see how long car and specially gearbox lasts :)
Thank you for all your help!!!