So, one of the very first things I tend to do with my cars, is rip out the stock sound system, in place of a better one. This ones been keeping me awake at night since I ordered the vehicle in November, partly due to the costs, partly due to the fact not many others have done it and as I've found now "the time is here", the actual kit you need use, is impossible to find due to chip shortages, anyway, I've finally paid for the missing piece of the puzzle, by having to import the A2B module direct from Australia, so this has spurred me on to make a start, knowing I have everything (at least on order).
Now, my Kuga came with a "premium" B&O 10 speaker system. Everyones fully aware that all of these collaborations do not result in "premium" hardware, but, someone from a semi respectable audio brand has sat in the cabin, and fiddle with some knobs, to make it sound slightly better, to the point they're happy to stick their name to it. And, in fairness. For a stock setup, its actually not too bad. The centre speaker is useless/garbage, and the roll offs in the highs and lows is harsh. I think if they'd have given me some time alignment functionality, on the basis my mileage is massively reduced these days, I would have possibly live and let live, and been a happy chappy.
But, I'd spent a pretty penny on kit, even before I'd received the car, so I was somewhat committed, and I do love to tinker. (#ipadminimoto | Vauxhall Insignia | Hyundai IX35).
Anyway, here's my "build" plan/thread. I'll try and capture any How To type material for the How To section too...
Plan
Replace all speakers with aftermarket alternatives, improve the subwoofer whilst keeping the car looking "original" and retaining the factory headunit, along with factory sounds/chimes & all functionality without butchering the vehicle (it's only 3 weeks old )!
As the tweeters and central speaker are powered from the headunit (Sync 3 APIM), my plan is to disconnect the centre speaker, for which I'll need to use the mObridge to re-align the chimes/sounds (I think). I'll then need to run new tweeter wiring to the front tweeters.
I intend to run Active Speakers up front, so both tweeter and woofer direct from the amp. The rear, will be passive, with the crossover fed from the stock wiring and then split out accordingly.
Kit
Hertz Mille Pro MPK165.3 2 Way Components for Front (New, £320 from CEN)
Hertz Mille Pro MP70.3 for Center channel (New, £160 from CEN)
Hertz Hi-Energy HSK165.2 2 Way Components for Rear (Previous Installs)
Hertz HX250D 10" Subwoofer (Previous Installs)
- Installed into a FBKolo02 "Basser" Sub Box (£140 from InCarProducts)
mObridge Ford A2B Standard Preamp (New, £650, Imported direct from mObridge AU)
Helix V Eight MK2 DSP & Amplifier (New, £850 from CEN)
Dodo Mat Deadn Pro Sound Deadening (New, £50 from CEN)
Dodo Mat Acoustic Liner (New, £50 from CEN)
Concerns
Cost(!) and EV range post install, due to weight and battery draw.
Now, my Kuga came with a "premium" B&O 10 speaker system. Everyones fully aware that all of these collaborations do not result in "premium" hardware, but, someone from a semi respectable audio brand has sat in the cabin, and fiddle with some knobs, to make it sound slightly better, to the point they're happy to stick their name to it. And, in fairness. For a stock setup, its actually not too bad. The centre speaker is useless/garbage, and the roll offs in the highs and lows is harsh. I think if they'd have given me some time alignment functionality, on the basis my mileage is massively reduced these days, I would have possibly live and let live, and been a happy chappy.
But, I'd spent a pretty penny on kit, even before I'd received the car, so I was somewhat committed, and I do love to tinker. (#ipadminimoto | Vauxhall Insignia | Hyundai IX35).
Anyway, here's my "build" plan/thread. I'll try and capture any How To type material for the How To section too...
Plan
Replace all speakers with aftermarket alternatives, improve the subwoofer whilst keeping the car looking "original" and retaining the factory headunit, along with factory sounds/chimes & all functionality without butchering the vehicle (it's only 3 weeks old )!
As the tweeters and central speaker are powered from the headunit (Sync 3 APIM), my plan is to disconnect the centre speaker, for which I'll need to use the mObridge to re-align the chimes/sounds (I think). I'll then need to run new tweeter wiring to the front tweeters.
I intend to run Active Speakers up front, so both tweeter and woofer direct from the amp. The rear, will be passive, with the crossover fed from the stock wiring and then split out accordingly.
- Hookup power and ground from the 12v battery in the rear. (PHEV bonus! The 12v is in the boot already!)
- Replace stock B&O Amp with mObridge DA-G2 A2B Standard pre-amp. (Located above the rear right wheel arch, next to the sub, under the shroud).
- Run RCA's from mObridge to Helix DSP/Amp.
- Feed Helix amplified sound back down the OEM wiring. (May need an additional harness knocking up depending on what the mObridge comes with. I think I've identified they're Molex STAC64 modules so I can knock something up - I've ordered a few of these on the off chance as they're cheap enough -- 2.84US $ |1pc for Ford Focus B&O module plug terminal 2X10 20PIN plug cable| | - AliExpress)
- Run new tweeter wiring from the Helix up to the front dash.
- Install door speakers & sub.
- Apply sound deadening.
Kit
Hertz Mille Pro MPK165.3 2 Way Components for Front (New, £320 from CEN)
Hertz Mille Pro MP70.3 for Center channel (New, £160 from CEN)
Hertz Hi-Energy HSK165.2 2 Way Components for Rear (Previous Installs)
Hertz HX250D 10" Subwoofer (Previous Installs)
- Installed into a FBKolo02 "Basser" Sub Box (£140 from InCarProducts)
mObridge Ford A2B Standard Preamp (New, £650, Imported direct from mObridge AU)
Helix V Eight MK2 DSP & Amplifier (New, £850 from CEN)
Dodo Mat Deadn Pro Sound Deadening (New, £50 from CEN)
Dodo Mat Acoustic Liner (New, £50 from CEN)
Concerns
Cost(!) and EV range post install, due to weight and battery draw.