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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
A quick poke this morning to explore the tweeter mounts and Center speaker. These all just pry up with strategically places spudgers and force. The center speaker is fixed by 2x 7mm bolts.

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
How to remove the Door Cards.

All four door cards, at least in the ST-X are fixed identically. To remove you will need the following tools.
  • Trim tool
  • Flat blade screwdriver
  • Ratchet and extension.
    • 7mm socket
    • 8mm socket
    • 10mm socket
  • Gloves, soft hands, nerves of steel and patience recommended
Items purchased
Supporting Documentation


1. Starting at front edge (where you can see the +), pry out screw cover behind door release handle to release two clips, then remove one exposed 7mm screw. This was tricky, and can easily result in scratches/scrapes! Go steady.

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2. Moving on to the handle, starting at rear edge furthest from the switch, pry up trim to release the clips, disconnect harness and remove switch panel. I inserted a pry tool in at the angle of the red arrow, and prized it up, I then used another tool in the location of the orange arrows and a bit of force releases it - often with a loud snap/crackle/pop!
3. Remove two 10mm bolts exposed by removal of trim.

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4. Remove two 7mm screws along bottom edge of door panel.

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5. Starting at rear edge, pry out reflector lens to remove (Not pictured) and remove one (1) 8mm screw that is exposed.

6. Now, another tricky bit... Removing the card. I think I tackled this in 4 different ways, one per door :) Basically, its just a case of levering it off. I would perhaps watch the videos for tips. Take noted of the highlighted locations (red).

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Once the door card is off, disconnect wiring;
  • Up front, you have two connectors, one to the window switches and one to the LED.
  • In the rear, you have two connectors, one to the tweeter and one to the window switch.
I had major issues removing the spring loaded door latch, so I just had the door car propped up with literally anything I could get hold of and let it dangle. Not ideal. (Orange circle). I've discussed the removal of this latch here.


7. Remove three 7mm screws securing speaker to door, disconnect the speaker wiring and remove the speaker.

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8. Do whatever you need/want to do to get the new speaker fitted. I used these Speaker mounts, and deadened the door interior by placing my hand through the gap left by the removed speaker. Not ideal in the slightest, but....

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Er, vini. Yours is an MY22 but you have the STline sill protectors. Did you fit these yourself?
 

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Er, vini. Yours is an MY22 but you have the STline sill protectors. Did you fit these yourself?
Mine has the scuff plates according to etis. Arrived at the dealer today. Built 1st March.
 

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This better sound bloomin' awesome after all of this... o_O (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
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Presumably ford ran out when they built mine and just left them off then :rolleyes:
They were included on MY20s but not on MY21s. Looks like they are putting them on again for MY22.

See here:
 

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The present 鈥渃hip鈥 shortage is nothing to do with anything other than Vini is using them all in his electro upgrades. It鈥檒l have more chips than a chippy. 馃お
No shortage of chips for consumer electronics. Conspiracy theory coming lol............

Perhaps there is just a shortage for Europe. Anyone fancy an MG, new stock near me according to the dealers website. MG's are made in India I believe.

I don't fancy one either.
 

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No shortage of chips for consumer electronics. Conspiracy theory coming lol............

Perhaps there is just a shortage for Europe. Anyone fancy an MG, new stock near me according to the dealers website. MG's are made in India I believe.

I don't fancy one either.
There are.

Apple CEO Cook: chip shortage impact will be even worse this quarter | ZDNet

Some car makers have fared better than others. Toyota stock piled chips, so initially were OK, but now are running short. Ford have been especially badly affected. MG (China) make very few cars compared to either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I'd have to say looking at the OEM speakers that the system sounds remarkably good considering. Somebody did a good job of maximising the setup with what they had.
Yup, had I not bought all this prior to buying the car, I鈥檇 have probably not bothered to be fair鈥

That said, even just replacing the stock speakers running from the B&O amp has made a vast improvement.

It鈥檚 bought me some me time & kept me entertained though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
Woooooh, we鈥檙e halfway there鈥. just a bit of a follow on really. Been plodding away with an hour here and there.

All four doors are now installed. I've stuffed the passive crossovers in the rear door card, but the fronts are running active so both woofer and tweeters are amped up. This required the front tweeters to have additional wiring run from front to back.

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After mulling it over, I made a last minute decision to keep the center channel. I was going to remove it, but decided what the heck, and ended up buying some Hertz Mille MP70.3, sadly a twin set, of which I'm only using one, so quite an expensive choice. But I might sell the other on.

This meant I had to crack open the side scuff panels again and run another wire run from front center to rear, luckily I had enough slack on the tweeter cabling so was able to use it as a pulley :)

I ran the wiring down the left hand side for what its worth. Getting the wiring from center to behind the glove box was a challenge, but not impossible.

I had to concoct a speaker bracket for this little beast. I made one out of 5mm acrylic.

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Everything's installed and back in situ now. Its just a case of programming the DSP.......! (oh. and hooking up the sub)
 
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Woooooh, we鈥檙e halfway there鈥. just a bit of a follow on really. Been plodding away with an hour here and there.

All four doors are now installed. I've stuffed the passive crossovers in the rear door card, but the fronts are running active so both woofer and tweeters are amped up. This required the front tweeters to have additional wiring run from front to back.

View attachment 11740
View attachment 11738


After mulling it over, I made a last minute decision to keep the center channel. I was going to remove it, but decided what the heck, and ended up buying some Hertz Mille MP70.3, sadly a twin set, of which I'm only using one, so quite an expensive choice. But I might sell the other on.

This meant I had to crack open the side scuff panels again and run another wire run from front center to rear, luckily I had enough slack on the tweeter cabling so was able to use it as a pulley :)

I ran the wiring down the left hand side for what its worth. Getting the wiring from center to behind the glove box was a challenge, but not impossible.

I had to concoct a speaker bracket for this little beast. I made one out of 5mm acrylic.

View attachment 11736 View attachment 11737 View attachment 11739


Everything's installed and back in situ now. Its just a case of programming the DSP.......! (oh. and hooking up the sub)
Not sure where the central heating valve fits in ?
 
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