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2020, mk3 Ford kuga
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WARNING, do these steps on your own responsibility and if you do not feel confident doing it, do NOT try to do it.

This instruction is merely for those already decided to find forscan and make the changes and have some IT skills and not too scared of the software to be used.

- If you use a laptop, make sure it is powered either cable or 100% battery (for hours of running).
- You should have an OBD / ELM327 (ford modified) interface ready, i use a USB version for stability.
- I did this on my 2017 mk2 ST-line, i believe it should work on any 2013+ mk2 kuga model.
- In the steps, a calibration file is mentioned, i do not write its name, as it is original property of FORD, and it also might change depending on model, so the software will request what file is needed, follow those instructions.
- LASTLY, i do not recommend changing anything else, but the towbar related topics. Other sites mention other option to changes, but i leave it up to you, if you dare modifying more options.

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1. Get the latest Forscan software (2.3.9 BETA currently) for windows (www.forscan.org)
2. Install and find your License code at the information page by pressing the bottom icon on you left of the window.
3. The code should have an icon on its right saying (copy to clipboard)
4. Go to the forscan.org website and visit the forum, create an account, and go back to downloading software.
5. On the download software page, you see a link to generate a extended licence key, follow this and do as it says on screen.
6. When you have the licence, go back to the forscan software and load keyfile from the information screen you found the id on. It will restart and then double check you see your extended licence activated, or you will not be able to configure the car. So unless key is good, you cannot continue.
7. Now we can proceed to the real update.
8. I used a ELM327 with hardware switch between HS and MS CAN mode. Software will ask you if you have this switch.
9. Connect the ODB to your car, remember it has to be ON (You can also start engine, as battery drains after time, if you spend too much on trying)
10. In forscan software, go the top icon, and select small "connect" icon at the bottom middle of the screen (point to it without click and you find it)
11. It will probably ask, if you wish to go from DEMO to REAL mode, select YES
12. It will connect and gather all important chips information now.
13. Important is, if you do not see the list of the HS-CAN firmware on the configuration list page (2. pane on top), you can probably not configure it.
HS-CAN contains the IPC, which contains main functions for towbar to enable.
14. If all is ok, both MS and HS chips are imported, you can continue to the next step.
15. Now, select the "Chip" icon on you left side.
16. You see a list of "configuration and programming" of all chips
17. Here you can go to the BdyCM (Central configuration (main) )
18. Run it. It will show some requirement on the screen, follow them, or it can result in damages to your system.
19. It might fail , and ask you to locate a calibration file.
20. Write down the reference name (example, could look like GV7B027-DC(.vbf) ) , and write the location of the file down.
21. Visit this pagehttps://www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/vdirs/wds/PCMReprogram/DSFM_PCMReprogram.asp?swproduct=IDS
UPDATE: You can see the names of the calibration file you need in the log entry created when you connect to the car. You will need the BdyCM & IPC calibration files.
22. at the bottom of the website, you can enter a name of a calibration file, enter the name from step 20.
23. you should get a download request for a zip file, save it to a location locally.
24. when file is downloaded, extracted the .vbf content and save it the location mentioned,
something like C:\USERS\{name}\documents\CalibrationFiles
25. When file is in place, go back to the forscan application, and retry step 18.
26. It should not fail now but ask warn you about doing these steps, you can continue after reading warnings.
27. It is successfully complete loading blocks, you will now have a new config page.
named: Central Configuration (backup)
28. In the FILTER field, enter trailer
29. you will see some fields found, like "Trailer module" and "Towbar"
30. Set "Trailer module" by double click on that entry, and set to 13 socket. (I did not see a 7 socket option)
31. Set "Towbar" - "Trailer tow attachment"
32. Now you can write back settings. 33. Press the "Write" icon below the settings. You should see a window "checking" and confirm your changes.
34. The scary part - it will now write a few blocks back to your car.
35. Car makes some noise/beeps when its finished.
36. If success full , Forscan will ask you to recycle ON/OFF ignition.
37. Next, press "Write to backup" (this is where you write to IPC as well)
38. It will ask you to move the switch, if your OBD has one.
39. step 34-36 happens
37. FINISHED, you got your towbar enabled in forscan.

Sorry, for not including any pictures, I wrote it all AFTER i did it, so hopefully i memorized it all 100%, i double checked names used on google, so that should be as i saw pictures in version 2.3.9.

It should be noted, that i verified functionality after changes, and it works well. With an exception that my rear sensors are still active, which i read is disabled by the proper electrics and not an option in the firmware. In my case, i heard beeping but trailer arm was quite long so it was not close , and beeping less anoying :) With proper electrics you might not have this issue at all.

Camera is also active, which is find usefull, when i need to match towbar to position of trailer :) (Others write it shuts off when trailer is connected)

EDIT:
I have found some other instructions, where a person had the issue with rear sensors not being disabled and still only had activated the 2 options mentioned in this guide.
His solution were to reset IPC and BCM, and cleared all DTC's.
I will try this soon and report back when possible.

EDIT2: I updated instruction to configure BdyCM module, still i was wrong the first time to use IPC only. I hope updated the BdyCM and a reset of BdyCM & IPC & DTC's will resolve the sensor issue.













Edited by: dexterPicard
 

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2020, mk3 Ford kuga
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Discussion Starter #3
keithmac said:
Have you got the dedicated electrics (canbus) fitted?
All i know is, that i got the WestFalia wiring kit and ORIS towbar , manual says it should be fine. Mechanic said it used original plugs. So i do not know more than this.
 

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2020, mk3 Ford kuga
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Discussion Starter #4
After i got the IPC &BdyCMupdated, it is still the same.

No change in display , when its connected.
Since this trailer is not broken i cannot verify if it detects faulty light og breaks.
But since all lights do work as expected and its only the internal car view which seems not to show a trailer, i live with this.
 

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Assuming that updating the software on a Danish vehicle will result in the same effect as in the UK, when a trailer is connected:

1. Rear sensors and rear fog lamps on the car should be disabled.
2. A trailer symbol should appear on the reversing camera screen when reverse gear is engaged. There are no other trailer symbols displayed.
3. If a trailer direction indicator bulb fails, the car indicator warning lamp on the dashboard display will flash twice as fast as normal. Remove a trailer direction indicator bulb and try it.
4. If you have BLIS fitted it should be disabled and a warning message displayed in the information menu.
5. The Electronic Stability Programme will activate Trailer Sway protection.



Edited by: BazKuga
 

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2020, mk3 Ford kuga
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Discussion Starter #6
All this happens with both 7socket and 13socket plugs?

Something is probably wrong, because when i took a right turn during driving, the rear sensor reacted and i could the trailer in the right rear window, so they are still enabled although software reports all ok.

So either another software update is needed, Westfalia electrics are not properly connected, or something is not removed when that westfalia wiring kit got connected.

I would hate going to Ford and have them confirming wiring kit is bad ;(

But should lights on trailer work normally although software seems not to be affected?
Or the westfalia wiring is almost correct, and something just isnt right.

Edited by: dexterPicard
 

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2020, mk3 Ford kuga
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Discussion Starter #7
After some thoughts around it, maybe Forscan is not changing the right value, which i need for a 13socket wiring kit, since it only offers 1 option, and i do not remember its value.Where Focccus offers both 7 and 13 socket support and values 2 and 5 are the change in the xml.

Ill check this later.
 

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My tow bar and 13 pin socket are factory fitted. The software update is required so that Trailer Sway and bulb failure warnings operate correctly and rear sensors and fog lamps are disabled.

I have no idea whether the trailer lamps will operate without the update but suspect they probably will but without bulb failure warnings.
 

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2020, mk3 Ford kuga
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Discussion Starter #9
BazKuga said:
My tow bar and 13 pin socket are factory fitted. The software update is required so that Trailer Sway and bulb failure warnings operate correctly and rear sensors and fog lamps are disabled.
Well, i assume since towbar manuals says, that those features will enable automatically when you change the 2 options in software which activate towbar.

I believe all i read and other posts, that my problems are not similar, since lights work as expected, but its the inside functions, which do not get enabled, so i suspect the mechanic not to have been doing the parts as the westfalia manual says.

So next stop must be Ford, unless i find a good mechanic that knows what the other guy did wrong. I cannot go back to him right now, since i modified those 2 options here, and he wanted Ford to look at it for an additional cost.
 

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That's the problem with after-market electrical kits on vehicles fitted with so many different interfaces and data buses. IMHO sticking with the Ford harness is the only way to go. Be careful if you take it to Ford - they may try and blame using non genuine parts if anything goes wrong in that area in the future.

PS: With your procedure, what is the reason behind downloading the same file on your vehicle from that Ford site? You lost me there, couldn't you modify your original file with the required trailer options activated, then upload that to your car? That's all you need to do when using FoCCCus.
 

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2020, mk3 Ford kuga
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Discussion Starter #11
murcod said:
PS: With your procedure, what is the reason behind downloading the same file on your vehicle from that Ford site? You lost me there, couldn't you modify your original file with the required trailer options activated, then upload that to your car? That's all you need to do when using FoCCCus.
1. When i try and read BCM with focccus, it crashes and and say could not set security id.
2. I can open the xml i downloaded but settings looks very much like those i changed in the forscan, but some other values seems different, so im afraid if the xml i downloaded is not a 100% match, if Ford in Denmark did some updates after they got it home.

the files downloaded from the Ford site, are calibration files needed to program the car, it will not read/write to the car, unless you get the right calibration files, the vbf folder exists with focccus as well, but even if i copy my vbf files to that one in focccus, it is still failing to talk to the car for BCM.
 

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2020, mk3 Ford kuga
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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, starting to think its the Fuse, F26 . I can see in other manuals for Kuga towbar, that if it exists, the old one should be removed and a new one added.

I have no idea if they replaced the F26 40a fuse.

If i remove it, it has no effect, maybe that is what cause my problem, if fuse is bad.
This picture below tells me to replace it, as i read it.
 

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That shows if you have f26 in place and it's 40a then throw the one in the kit away(or maybe keep as as spare).
This refers to whether the car came with the tow module wires from factory therefore you wouldnt need to fit the wire into the f26, to feed the fuse, and the fuse to go with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
:) Yes, i think fuse works.

When i remove it, and start left/right blink, at least i see a warning in display, not when i press the break though.

But fuse seems fine, no need to replace it.

Back to the last way out, probably, the Ford dealer.
 

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Sounds to me like your kit has been fitted wrong. Maybe the can bus wiring connectors?Or the module in their kit could be faulty.Electronics do fail even when new.
 

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This is the exact reason I bought the Ford kit
 

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Discussion Starter #17
andspenka said:
This is the exact reason I bought the Ford kit
But if the not-Ford mechanic connects it incorrectly, it is not important whether it is a Ford Kit or WestFalia . At least mechanic claimed the Westfalia kit uses the original connector.

And i find no complaints on internet about Westfalia and kuga wiring kits being a problem.

But are correct, if you buy from Ford, you can more easily go back to them and complain there as well, if your setup fails.
 

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dexterPicard said:
andspenka said:
This is the exact reason I bought the Ford kit
But if the not-Ford mechanic connects it incorrectly, it is not important whether it is a Ford Kit or WestFalia . At least mechanic claimed the Westfalia kit uses the original connector.

And i find no complaints on internet about Westfalia and kuga wiring kits being a problem.

But are correct, if you buy from Ford, you can more easily go back to them and complain there as well, if your setup fails.

OK, let me re-phrase, This is the exact reason I bought the Ford kit and fitted it myself so I know it's right!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
andspenka said:
dexterPicard said:
andspenka said:
This is the exact reason I bought the Ford kit
But if the not-Ford mechanic connects it incorrectly, it is not important whether it is a Ford Kit or WestFalia . At least mechanic claimed the Westfalia kit uses the original connector.

And i find no complaints on internet about Westfalia and kuga wiring kits being a problem.

But are correct, if you buy from Ford, you can more easily go back to them and complain there as well, if your setup fails.

OK, let me re-phrase, This is the exact reason I bought the Ford kit and fitted it myself so I know it's right!
Ahhhh, smartguy and a wise decision ;)


Then you know how to get the rear right side off , where cabling is? (Just maybe then i would at least look at what they did) as i got the manual but no story on how i take the rear right off.

edit: I found videos of removing it, but they simply show photos and wrong angles when doing it, so i end up seeing there , next the cover is removed, i cannot see whether i pull or look for screws to remove first ;(



Edited by: dexterPicard
 

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Unfortunately the instructions aren't great or I could have added the pictures for you.

You need to start by taking the middle piece off that runs across where the boot latch is, then just get your fingers inside and pull away towards the inside of the boot. There's clips along the top where it connects to the upper part, it actually comes off quite easily. If you take the fuse cover off, it gives you a hole to get your fingers in and to pull with.
 
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