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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My wife is the main user of the Kuga and has real trouble with cold hands (Reynaud's Syndrome). So, a heated steering wheel would be nice. It wasn't an option on the origunal MK2 but was on the facelift. I've purchased a steering wheel and clockspring/combination switch from a ST-Line. (Updated clockspring is required as it has extra connctions passed through it for the heater element and thermistor.) To get it working on our Kuga I think I have two options:

1. Install factory switch.
or
2. Just wire up the heater element and thermistor to a 3rd party temperature controller and switch.

Option 1 is obviously the best as a finished product but far from straight forward. In the facelift MK2 the heated screen switches have moved to the HVAC control panel and the steering wheel switch goes in the module where the screen switches were in the pre-facelift. So I'd need a new HVAC control panel. Followed by a lot of loom work and programming. Another issue is that I cannot even establish whether it uses a dedicated control module (HSWM) as in the Fusion, Mondeo, earlier Focus, or is controlled elsewhere, perhaps the Steering (Column) Control Module?

Option 2 Should be reasonably straightforward. So, I'm going down this route to at least get it up and running for now. It does have the advantage of being able to have a variable temperature.

So far I have:

  • Sourced Steering Wheel (GV41-13600-JD1GPL). This has no paddle shifters and standard cruise (non-adaptive.)
  • Sourced Clockspring (F1FT-14A664-AA). This came with combination switches but the indicator doesn't have lane-assist so I'll swap the original over to it. It has an extra connector for the heater and thermistor on front and rear.
  • Tested the heated functionality: Heating element draws 6A and the wheel get's warm! Thermistor seems to have the characteristcs of a standard 10Kohm NTC thermistor (resistance measured outdoors, indoors and in the airing cupboard.)

So good so far. But, I had assumed that the 4 pins on the front heater/thermistor connector would be passed through to one of the connectors on the rear of the clockspring unit. However, they are not. 2 are, one heater and one thermistor leg. The other two terminate on the clockspring circuit board (PCB). I find this confusing; it implies that the heating function is controlled by the PCB (is this the SCCM?) but why don't all 4 connections go to the PCB? Perhaps the 2 that pass through to the rear connector are purely for power? So if I want to continue with option 2 I will need to break the connections to the PCB and pass them through. Not an impossible task but quite fiddly. I had to dismantle the clockspring just to buzz out all the connections and confirm that the clockspring itself wasn't damaged.

So I'll carry on and keep you all updated. If anyone has any useful input that would be much appreciated. Some questions that are currently floating around my brain are:

  • Has anyone done this on a Kuga/Escape (I can't find anything)?
  • Would it be similar to a Focus MK3 (or 4)?
  • What is the PCB in the clockspring mudule? It has the steering angle sensor connected. I think it is the SCM or SCCM?
  • Does the Kuga have a HSWM for the heated wheel? I think not.
  • Where are the wiring diagrams for the facelift model? The Haynes Manual diagrams only have what seem to be pre-facelift with no heated wheel. I paid £15 for an hours acces to ETIS wiring diagrams and they were the same as in the Haynes Manual!!
  • Does the heated wheel really need temperature control? I left the heater running for 15 minutes and it didn't get too hot, just warm enough. I could do a longer test I suppose. Probably better play safe :)
Here's a link to doing this on a Fusion. No switch needed as it's controlled on SYNC. Just add the HSWM, bits of loom and enable everything using Forscan :) Heated Steering Wheel Installation Guide

Updates to follow...

Bob
 

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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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@balders has added heated steering wheel to his Kuga and I know @andspenka has changed his but not 100% sure if his was heated. They will respond.
 

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Ford Kuga 2013 Titanium X
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Mine isn't heated 😢
 

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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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It's a nice extra. We have it on our mokka. Will have to wait for balders to pick this up.
 

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Kuga, Titanium X Sport 2016
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Nope.... Mine isn't heated..... Flat bottomed thou... 😊😊
5128
 

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Ford Kuga 2013 Titanium X
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Look at the state of them floor mats :oops:

@smartguy69, it's only shiny on the outside
 
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Mr. Helpful & Still a Moderator
Kuga, Titanium X Sport 2016
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It was clean before I took these 2 out... Honest... 😋😋
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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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I have my eye on one of those Sony radio panels.
 

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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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@andspenka - do you think we could ask balders to remove his cd cover and find out where the wires for the light goes.
 

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Ford Kuga 2013 Titanium X
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Way ahead of you, I already have ages ago, they disappear down behind the heating controls but he couldn't see where without a major strip down.
 

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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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Ok I will have a look to see if the wiring diagram shows anything on sync 2.
 

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2016 Kuga Titanium 2.0l EcoBoost
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has real trouble with cold hands (Reynaud's Syndrome).
I've got it as well.

Good luck with the upgrade. Please post up how you go about it.

If you happen to need the part numbers of the electrical pins for the clock spring I think I posted them on here when I did a paddle shifter upgrade.
 

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2016 Kuga Titanium 2.0l EcoBoost
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The other two terminate on the clockspring circuit board (PCB). I find this confusing; it implies that the heating function is controlled by the PCB (is this the SCCM?) but why don't all 4 connections go to the PCB? Perhaps the 2 that pass through to the rear connector are purely for power?
I'd assume either the earth (or the 12V) is supplied via that PCB.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've got it as well.

Good luck with the upgrade. Please post up how you go about it.

If you happen to need the part numbers of the electrical pins for the clock spring I think I posted them on here when I did a paddle shifter upgrade.
Thanks David, Found those pin references.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'd assume either the earth (or the 12V) is supplied via that PCB.
I did think about that but I'm not not sure that the connections on the PCB are up to the current required for the heater. I need to dismantle it again and buzz it out to see where it actually goes.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
OK, a quick update...

I buzzed out the 4 pins on the clockspring and only 1 comes out on the back of the combination switch assembly. This almost certainly means that that heating is controlled by the SCM board in that assembly (A in photo). So I took the top off the assembly (B in photo); the four pins of the heating connector pass through the case and plug into a connextor on the PCB (C in Photo). I bent over the three that don't pass through (see photo) and soldered wires onto them. The wires were then passed through a hole in the side of the case. A fourth wire was connected to the pin on the bottom of the unit that is a pass-thru for one of the top connector pins (See photo). I then connected the steering wheel and the new "harness" to a W1209 digital temp controller all powered off an old PC power supply. Works perfectly! Gets up to temperature in under a minute.

That was before Christmas and I would have liked to fit it to the car as a surprise Christmas present for my Wife, but there just wasn't the opportunity. So I boxed it all up and presented it to her on Christmas Day. Never seen such a puzzled expresion :) Once I'd explained she was most pleased!

This morning I started fitting it to the car:

Removing the airbag was a PITA! Turns out that as well as levering the release bar through each round hole on the back of the wheel, the airbag needed to be pulled quite firmly too; I was being too gentle. Examining the replacement items didn't help as they use a slightly different latch arrangement. I could do it again in few seconds now I know :)

Removing the steering wheel and combination switch assemebly was straightforward.

The "new" switch assemebly went on fine and I used the original indicator stalk as I need the lane assist button.

Steering wheel and airbag went on fine.

I mounted a round rocker switch in the left hand side of the lower steering column cowling. Easy to find but not very obvious if you see what I mean. One of the heating element wires goes via this switch and it also has it's own earth for an LED.

I then ran the bundle of 4 wires across to the glovebox. I removed the gearstick trim plus the trim that sorrounds that. The side panels of the centre console were pulled out as far as needed to route the wires through.

So that's it for now, my wife needed the car :-( All the steering wheel controls work just fine. Not sure I like the facelift cruise buttons; prefer the "paddle" type. I don't think it can be swapped over from the old wheel so will just have to get used to it.

I'll be powering it off the F85 supply, probably with a piggyback. The temperature controller cannot take more than 12v so it is supplied by a 9V DC-DC converter. This will be hidden away behind the glovebox. The temp controller will probably be in the glovebox. Once set up it shouldn't need to be touched but it needs to be accessible for tweaking.

Hopefully will be finished tomorrow.

Bob


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I know exactly what you mean about the airbag, I was exactly the same the first time I tried to remove mine. @balders actually told me how to get it off successfully as I managed to get 1 side off then when trying to do the other side, the first side would click back in 🤦‍♂️ I think it's because there's so much emphasis put on how careful you need to be with them, that you're probably being a little too cautious.

I've since changed mine to an ST Line version but it's not the heated one, it does mean I have the right clock spring and indicator/wiper switch gear now though. Could be our next project @balders 😁
 

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I know exactly what you mean about the airbag, I was exactly the same the first time I tried to remove mine. @balders actually told me how to get it off successfully as I managed to get 1 side off then when trying to do the other side, the first side would click back in 🤦‍♂️ I think it's because there's so much emphasis put on how careful you need to be with them, that you're probably being a little too cautious.

I've since changed mine to an ST Line version but it's not the heated one, it does mean I have the right clock spring and indicator/wiper switch gear now though. Could be our next project @balders 😁
@balders, @andspenka - I will send you both some heated driving gloves. I am not sure I could cope with thinking about another major modification. I think the gas struts on my tailgate are failing and was thinking should I go electric lol.
 

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I will have another car by then. I remember that thread from start to finish which remind me......I need to have a look on mine and see if I have the 180 map option in the PCM for mine.
 
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