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Discussion Starter #1
This unit is sealed for life - accordinng to Ford ! I would like to change the oil in mine.

Has anyone successfully extracted the diff oil via the the fill hole on the rear cover plate ?

Does anyone have any pictures of the RDU internals ?
 

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What model is it?

Haldex system or the later (like mine) the IAWD system?

I too do not like the sealed for life idea, and gearboxes (and diffs) do need clean oil to keep working properly.
Since oil not filtered the wear particles act like a grinding paste and accelerate wear internally.

(Renault vans are known for it, change g'box oil every 30 - 40 k, no problems. Don't do it & a set of bearings required at 70+ k)

I will be changing my front end oils (Gearbox & front PTU) at about 40- 50k miles, works wonders.

I've not have a good coat of weighing up on the Kuga, but a couple of options are:
Pop a shaft out - how easy or hard that is I don't know.
Or as I've done in a previous life, drill & tap in the casing to make a drain plug. say M8 fine. (buy a off the shelf sump plug)

HOWEVER the casing has to be thick enough to tap a thread.

Looking at the picture, there is a epicyclic gearbox, then a conventional diff arrangement.
The clutch that engages RWD is from the PTU at the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's the Ford system not Haldex

Looking at the piccy I bet the crown wheel is directly behind the fill plug !

I'd also thought about drilling but haven't had that close a look at it, not sure if the base is flat or curved or how thick it is.

I'd also thought about taking a shaft out - local Ford garage suggested 1.5 hour job

I assume both the PTU and gearbox have drain and fill plugs?

Is there info available stating what oil goes where and in what quantity ?
 

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Had a look on castrol website, punch your reg number in and quotes oil for gearbox & transfer box (PTU)

When I change engine oil & undertray is off I will have a coat of looking at re front end.

Rear end non the wiser.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the link

So sucking the oil out is possible - time to crawl underneath for a closer look
 

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I need to do ours as well (JTEKT rear diff).

Just weary of what fluid to use, has FORD got a specification for it anywhere?.

The Powershift is easy enough to do, just make sure you do final level set procedure correctly and DON'T open the level bung again afterwards!.
 

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The JTEKT unit is a completely different animal to the Haldex and uses a wet clutch system but and does not have a pump like the Haldex to force the friction plates together. From posts on this forum the pump on the Haldex fails because it and a filter become blocked with debris from the friction plates etc. Friction plates on the JTEKT unit are forced together electromechanically.


Is is necessary? Unlike the Haldex where contrary to Haldex and other car manufacturers themselves, Ford chose not to service the unit with the resultant failure, JTEKT do nor recommend a service, as far as I can tell. Though the JTEKT unit on the Kuga is a collaboration with Ford.
 

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The JTEKT system is in the PTU not the rear diff, so can use standard differential oil.
I think it's a good idea to change the diff oil, because sealed for life is good until it isn't, they will fail.
 

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There are mating surfaces in there.

So will wear, so will have bits in there to wear more, that will wear more...

Then it will come to the end of its life … Amen.

20,000; 30,000; 50,000 or 100,000 miles +, roll the dice and find out.

Change the oil, (WITH CORRECT GRADE) and get the majority of the wear particles out must help.

Those with the power shift gearboxes, please give use a picture of the oil before & after, and that goes for the PTU.
 

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I thought it was compact unit too, Ford kept showing this on their video which is the Differential preceded by more than a bearing support at the end of the propshaft so took it that was the JTEXT unit. Not looked under the front of the car to see any different, so my misunderstanding.

.
 

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Having looked at pictures of the RDU, (and some of JLR ones I worked with circa 2012)

The front bit is a epicyclic gear box. since Power = revs per seconds X torque x 2pi

You want a higher speed propshaft to the rear with less torque. Prop shaft is then lighter and easier to accelerate.

If the gearing was 1:1 the propshaft would be fatter, (Knock on effect of floor pan) heavier (larger bearings) and hard to spin.
[Did someone mention costs?]


The power to rear (propshaft) is engaged via a wet plate clutch type system (motorbike type) on the back of the front diff crown wheel. (PTU)


The old system (Haldex) the propshaft spun all the time (using some power) and the engagement is in front of the rear diff.

I have lots of pictures from JLR production line showing this.
 

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Right, so the wet clutch is in the assembly.
 

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With ours, IAWD, clutch assembly within the PTU, and has separate oil from the main gearbox.

In the book, call it transfer box.

Picture: NOT FORD, is a Freelander or Evoque, The PTU sending drive to the rear. (2012)

Noted a few things. (Slept since 2012!)
On a auto box.
Front RH driveshaft goes in from right, LH other side.
The front diff is within gearbox under the black plastic cover like a conventional FWD car.
If FWD only, no PTU present, and the RH side driveshaft longer, straight in gearbox, (diff actually)
Oil fill plug, but no drain.... (I looked on other pictures)


On the Kuga, similar but different system, a clutch engages or disengages the PTU, from the main gearbox diff.

Because the kuga AWD was designed to be AWD from day 1, the early AWD's cheated by converting a FWD gearbox with a PTU, as per picture.
 

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Found this picture on tinternet,

Which is FORD kuga Mk2, or possibly Mk1 so don't shoot me!

Which I am sure is the Haldex system, as no clutch magic in there, so always engaged to propshaft to rear.

And hello, item 23 a drain plug.....

But as the thread, not in the RDU
 

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The JTEKT cluch clamp was "mechanically operated" rather than pump and hydraulics.

But after 60,000 miles the oil will be well past it's best.

Even sucking as much as you can out and replacing with same amount on a higher milage car is a good idea imho.

The oil will shear as the "clutch" plates clamp and there must be friction plate debris in it.

Think the sealed for life has come about due to dealerships employing oil change monkeys rather than proper techs.

More chance of a diff or gearbox being destroyed within the warranty period due an incorrect oil change in the first 3 years than letting it sit in it's own dirt for 6 years..
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Am I right in thinking the PTU and the manual gearbox have both drain and fill plugs ? Any photos or diagrams available ?

It's just the RDU / diff where we would have extract by vacuum or drop a shaft out to drain ?

The Castrol / Fuchs / Millers web sites all state the oil type / quantity requirements. I see Redline has also been recommended.

I guess I'll be crawling underneath for a look at some point.
 

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Getrag make the Powershift (6DCT450), unless Ford have bolted something to the side of it I can't see how it can be inside the Powershift.

I've had mine in bits and watched videos, theres only two clutches in the Powershift?.

Volvo use the same Auto gearbox, surely they aren't using Ford Intelligent AWD?.

Need to have a closer look at ours to work out what does what.

Suppose if there's no wiring to the rear diff it has to be passive and the AWD is at the front.
 
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