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2014 KUGA Titanium X 163 Powershift
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2014 Titanium X 163 with Powershift and recently, more evident from cold, the box seems to snatch/grab when accelerating away in 1st. Also, again when cold, there’s a judder when it goes from 1st to 2nd. It had a g/box service in 2018 at Ford.
Just wondering if this is a common issue and if there’s any major worries! TIA ?
 

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Look for a reply from keithmac. He has the most technical knowledge on the Powershift gearbox.
 

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2014 KUGA Titanium X 163 Powershift
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. I’ll take a look
 

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2014 KUGA Titanium X 163 Powershift
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Discussion Starter #5
Hi. Mileage is 34k. Yes, seems to disappear when it’s warmed up.
 

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They are a bit clunky when cold and you would be very unlucky to have clutch damper failure at 34k.

May be worth checking the gearbox for stored fault codes if you know someone with a scanner (or buy a FORScan setup).

You can do the Clutch and Gear Fork Position learn with FORScan that may smooth it out a bit (or ask Ford but they'd probably charge £££).

There is a gearbox firmware update, again a Ford job to check on their diagnostics, was released late 2014 so you may already have it but worth a check. (FORScan can read the calibration/ strategy versions).

I wouldn't be overly concerned at that mileage though.
 

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2014 KUGA Titanium X 163 Powershift
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Discussion Starter #7
That’s great. Thank you. It’s going in for a service in April so I may check on the update then. I may invest in the ForScan as well. You’re a star. Puts my mind at rest ?
 

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2014 KUGA Titanium X 163 Powershift
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Discussion Starter #8
They are a bit clunky when cold and you would be very unlucky to have clutch damper failure at 34k.

May be worth checking the gearbox for stored fault codes if you know someone with a scanner (or buy a FORScan setup).

You can do the Clutch and Gear Fork Position learn with FORScan that may smooth it out a bit (or ask Ford but they'd probably charge £££).

There is a gearbox firmware update, again a Ford job to check on their diagnostics, was released late 2014 so you may already have it but worth a check. (FORScan can read the calibration/ strategy versions).

I wouldn't be overly concerned at that mileage though.
Anr recommendations for a decent device to use ForScan at all?
 

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I like my modified ELM327 make sure it is a usb wired one and not Bluetooth. Others on here will recommend something else but I had no issues with my ELM. I also have a VX-Diag but that was expensive.
 

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I use a Proscan Automotive ELM Config, works well and will do the Clutch learns ok etc was £26 iirc.

I also have VCM2 (proper 2 board unit), use this for firmware updates.

I have IDS but it's terrible to use compared to FORScan.

20190403_175620.jpg

20191021_193425.jpg
 

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2014 KUGA Titanium X 163 Powershift
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Discussion Starter #11
That’s great. Thanks again. I presume they’re on eBay?
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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@keithmac - I remember reading in one of your posts about ensuring battery voltage remains at 11.6 volts or above whilst writing to the ECU. I will be upgrading my sync1 soon to Sync2 so need to do a little bit of reprogramming of some as built data but as my update is nothing to do with engine or gearbox side of things I thought I could do this with the engine running. I do have a spare 12 volt battery in case I need to do it with engine off as would hate to think the programme stopped half way through.
 

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You could probably do it fine with engine running (depending what SMART charging is doing mind!).

I bought one of these after borrowing works, my 4 amp charger couldn't cut it.

20191025_162640.jpg
 

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I could have done with one of those today after running my battery flat! Yesterday at lunch I changed one side front pads and disc and set to today to do the nearside. Caliper bolts on these are tight and I prefer the shock tactic as opposed to a breaker bar but being the nearside I had to turn the wheel to get a better hit with a mallet. Was taking a bit of a risk using a 12 point socket but bolt heads were in excellent condition. Anyway I turned the ignition on to move the steering but for the life of me, don't know why I didn't start the engine but somehow managed to leave the ignition powered on and also left my dashcam plugged in from Monday. Flat as a fart and had put all my tools in the boot. Should there not be a manual release on these. Car parked front end in on the drive too.

So there was me feeling real chuffed with myself by saving a few quid only to find I had completely flattened the battery. Now I don't know if it was the dashcam but I would have thought the ignition would have turned itself off after a while. I would like to meet the idiot who thought it was a good idea not only to hide the battery but to have a design that is impossible to attach jump leads to. I couldn't get it jumped off at first but after leaving it connected to the wife's car for about 20 minutes it started. A 20 minute run had put enough charge in it to see the auto stop work. Bigger problem now though is when I had the bonnet up on the wife's Mokka there is a nasty ticking sound coming from the top of the engine. Time for it to go maybe. The Kuga was a bit rattly as well coming from somewhere around the alternator but it went away after a minute or so.

New discs and pads all round now so good for a few more miles yet and fingers crossed for mot next week.
 

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I don't think they will automatically turn ignition off (possibly a safety feature).

Remember watching "Cop Car Workshop" and they managed to do the same.

Sounds like you had fun!.

Might be worth leaving battery on a charger for a day if it's been dead flat.
 

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I did think about leaving it on charge overnight but it's cold now so will do it in the morning. I work from home so I don't need the car. I found out today that a keyed ignition is not a bad idea lol. I couldn't believe the easiest job I have ever had on replacing front discs and pads was hampered by running the battery flat and I forgot to watch the brake fluid level so it pushed it over the top a little. My calipers are a nice new shade of black though which is something you don't get if a garage replaces the pads and it will be interesting to see if my wheels come off easy next time I need to remove them as they are quite bad on the Kuga for not wanting to come off. All faces cleaned up and a thin coat of copper slip. First time ever I have used a torque wrench for anything other than a cylinder head. Surprising how close you can get to the right torque without one. Couldn't find any settings for the rear caliper bracket torx bolts.
 

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Yep I only use torque wrenchee for cylinder heads and Ducati belt tensioners mainly.

Remember years ago having to hammer a wheel off my wifes Focus at the side of the busy road. Apparently "services" don't include taking the wheels off..

Never again, all wheels off cleaned and coppa slipped same as you when I got it home, same with Kuga.
 

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The kuga is the first car I had to copper slip behind the wheels. I don't like hitting my tyres with a big hammer and even feel guilty having to kick them lol.

I stopped once to help a young lad who had a blow out after hitting a pot hole in the middle of nowhere. Normally I wouldn't stop as you just never know, but I was in my works van so thought I would help. He had just had new tyres fitted and the nuts were so tight I had to get a long bar out of the van and jump on it. Nearly as bad as doing a lorry wheel. I guess they had been wound up with a windy gun.
 
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