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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi

Just purchased a 2014 Kuga and have now found out about the power sockets being permanently live.

When we go camping we use a cooler box powered by the boot mounted supply which in our last car was fine as the socket switched off with the ignition.

Now with the Kuga, I don't want to end up with a flat battery so want to hopefully address this situation.
I have searched the forum (which is very informative by the way, I know this by how often I get led off on tangents from the searches) but haven't come across the boot socket solution (yet)

After seeing the use of the power tap fuses in the front fuse box solutions, I bought a tap to hopefully use for a solution to the boot socket. The one I got though doesn't actually fit into the fuse slots as it fouls.

Have I potentially bought the wrong tap or do they not fit the rear fuse box?

I still need this tap anyhow to sort the front power socket out which I'll do like many of you have already done and documented with thanks.

It would be just nice to get the boot socket sorted out too so I don't flatten the battery.

Any help or advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 

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Do you want to fit a separate boot socket or use the existing?



Edited by: Fillco
 

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OK. Well you should be able to fit the Mini Fuse tap although tight in the fuse box and run the lead to the positive of the socket. Is the tap the correct size, i.e minifuse.

Edited by: Fillco
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, it's a mini fuse tap but it's like the body of the tap (where the two fuses sit side by side) fouls on the plastic housing of the rear fuse box.

To be honest, my thoughts/hopes were to fit the tap into a spare ignition switched live, put one 20a fuse in. Remove the std fit fuse for the boot mounted socket. Put a spade terminal into the end of the taps lead and push the spade onto the (now bare terminal where the OE fuse was for socket).

Does this not sound like feasible solution Fillco? I failed at first hurdle when the tap wouldn't push into the free socket anymore, so the wire tap never got power.

Or have I just not forced it enough.

Thank by the way. Appreciate you trying to assist.
 

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Yes that what I would do too, link via a spade connector rather than a lead to the socket.

Unless your piggy back tap is quite large, it should go under the plastic trim with a bit of gentle persuasion and will be beneath the trim and cover. Mine certainly has.






Edited by: Fillco
 

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Image
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A photo says a thousand words ;-)

Thanks

I'll get a photo of my tap and upload it to see what you reckon.
 

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OK.


I have 2 taps on ignition supply,
one for a small fusebox at the side of the rear seats which power the
heated rear seat covers in winter and provides switched ignition to a twin socket
under the drivers side dash for dash Cam and my Garmin (when I dont
trust the Ford SatNav) and some other communication equipment I have fitted.






Second Piggy back provides a switched 20amp supply to a supplementary heater in the rear passenger area fiitted in winter, and coolbox in summer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, after seeing your installation photos I decided to go back out with a little more perseverance knowing it should fit rather than break something.

Happy to say, it now works from ignition.

Thanks again Fillco
 

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Magic, pleased you managed it.

One other thing I haven't done on the Kuga and I did on my Mondeo was fit a timer for the coolbox, to keep the coolbox on for a set period.

It may not be of interest, but I used a permanent supply via a relay, and the relay was powered from the rear boot light positive, so that the coolbox came on and timed off when the battery saver relay timed out so removed power from the interior lighting and the coolbox relay.

The timer allowed 0-6 hours, but I had it set to 2 hours. Timer could only be activated while the supply to the boot light was present thus the coolbox relay was on, so this prevented false activation, and activation was by simple push button on the timer. Once timed out, it wouldn't self activate because the timer itself was powered only while the coolbox was on (Bootstrapped). 2 hours drew about 12ah from the battery so there was enough in reserve to start the engine. Worked well and allowed us to leave the car and go for a walk and come back to the nice cool contents.

Dead easy to do with a multifunction timer, relay and a push button.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Fillco said:
Magic, pleased you managed it.

One other thing I haven't done on the Kuga and I did on my Mondeo was fit a timer for the coolbox, to keep the coolbox on for a set period.

It may not be of interest, but I used a permanent supply via a relay, and the relay was powered from the rear boot light positive, so that the coolbox came on and timed off when the battery saver relay timed out so removed power from the interior lighting and the coolbox relay.

The timer allowed 0-6 hours, but I had it set to 2 hours. Timer could only be activated while the supply to the boot light was present thus the coolbox relay was on, so this prevented false activation, and activation was by simple push button on the timer. Once timed out, it wouldn't self activate because the timer itself was powered only while the coolbox was on (Bootstrapped). 2 hours drew about 12ah from the battery so there was enough in reserve to start the engine. Worked well and allowed us to leave the car and go for a walk and come back to the nice cool contents.

Dead easy to do with a multifunction timer, relay and a push button.

Phil
This sounds very interesting Phil. Very handy that.

Up to now, we've been fine but I'll certainly keep your idea in mind. We currently have a Waeco Coolfreeze that has a form of battery monitoring built into it, but we've never found we really needed to use that function upto now. It wasn't cheap, but once it's cool, the level of insulation it has, it takes quite a while to start warming back up.

Cheers

Rich
 

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OK Rich, on the monitor, battery voltage drops on load so may turn off earlier than a timer, but will ere on the safe side.
 

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Sorry to revive an old thread. Cant find a definitive answer...

Is there a fuse in the rear fusebox which is on the switched ignition feed?

Want to use this to power a coolbox.
 

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Hallo doncarlyon, I didn't bother with the switched/permanent wires but bought
- something like this
  • a box to install it in
  • half-a-metre of 2.5mm2 wire
  • two (F+M) CL connectors
and made my own „automatic-battery-undervoltage-protection-CL-extension“.
Works perfectly, and you can use it for anything you want (cooler / electric heater etc)
 

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Hallo doncarlyon, I didn't bother with the switched/permanent wires but bought
- something like this
  • a box to install it in
  • half-a-metre of 2.5mm2 wire
  • two (F+M) CL connectors
and made my own „automatic-battery-undervoltage-protection-CL-extension“.
Works perfectly, and you can use it for anything you want (cooler / electric heater etc)
Thanks, that's a good idea 💡
 

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There are 2 x fuses in the boot fusebox which can be used... the heated seat fuses.

I've added a fuse tap to one of them and it works a treat.
 
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