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Mr. Uses Lots of Words
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Post #17 will explain where I said I would bet my Friday Chinese takeaway that it's a battery issue. You don't know how much I look forward to my Friday night chinese.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Post #17 will explain where I said I would bet my Friday Chinese takeaway that it's a battery issue. You don't know how much I look forward to my Friday night chinese.
How did I missed that post, must be tired 馃ぃ
 

Mr. Uses Lots of Words
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It's easily done and at times only I understand what I write lol. Hope the battery solves the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
It's easily done and at times only I understand what I write lol. Hope the battery solves the problem.
Thanks I hope so too! When the start stop won鈥檛 work I鈥檒l start looking again for a cause for low power in battery...til then....馃馃
 

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And how accurate is your mV meter to be able to trust that, though it will give an indication something is drawing current
 
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And how accurate is your mV meter to be able to trust that, though it will give an indication something is drawing current
I do not uderstand your statement. I have a Fluke meter that would be accurate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
And how accurate is your mV meter to be able to trust that, though it will give an indication something is drawing current
Couldn鈥檛 possibly say how accurate I鈥檓 only a diyer. But the new battery seemed to be ok, as start stop is still working nearly a week later. Just have to check the rear demister as twice I鈥檝e noticed the window delisting when I didn鈥檛 switch it on and the relay under the bonnet has a burning smell and white powder around it
 

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I assume you mean window is demisting, remove the relay and watch what happens, check the pins on the relay looking for burn marks and also look at base of relay for burn signs, check the female connections for corotion and see if falling back or loose. The relay contacts could be welded together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I assume you mean window is demisting, remove the relay and watch what happens, check the pins on the relay looking for burn marks and also look at base of relay for burn signs, check the female connections for corotion and see if falling back or loose. The relay contacts could be welded together.
Will do thanks
 

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OK on the fluke, if you read the manual it will tell you what the accuracy is, which will be a percentage of the displayed reading and add to that + or - so many digits.

eg 1% +/- 5 digits Depending on your resolution (the number of digits after the decimal point) of your reading and meter range. If your resolution was 0.1mV that would mean that the real voltage of a dislayed 1mV, could be anywhere between 0.60 and 1.5 mV but your Fluke should be a better resolution than that, more like 0.05% +/- 2 digits.
 

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OK on the fluke, if you read the manual it will tell you what the accuracy is, which will be a percentage of the displayed reading and add to that + or - so many digits.

eg 1% +/- 5 digits Depending on your resolution (the number of digits after the decimal point) of your reading and meter range. If your resolution was 0.1mV that would mean that the real voltage of a dislayed 1mV, could be anywhere between 0.60 and 1.5 mV but your Fluke should be a better resolution than that, more like 0.05% +/- 2 digits.
Fillco I do not no what to say to your comments, they are true, but not helpful to the average person seeking help on this site. I gave information to help not to score points.
 

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No points scoring, just alerting the average person that poor accuracy may give misleading readings. I could have said nothing and no one would be any the wiser.

Note the much improved credible reading you will have with an accuracy of 0.05% and +/- 2 digits particularly if the meter can read down to 0.01mV.

While the chart is a good guide in the right hands (and I've not seen that before) it could be used to alert the user to a fault particularly in informing that some current is flowing or not.:)

Whats the accuracy of your Fluke when reading DC mV, were you aware of it?
 

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Fillco I do not no what to say to your comments, they are true, but not helpful to the average person seeking help on this site. I gave information to help not to score points.
Fillco is highlighting that you're trying to read a very minuscule level of voltage- starting from 0.1mV on that chart. Your average DIYer's multimeter isn't going to be accurate at those low levels. Possibly not even in the ball park of being close. You also need to consider that those fuses could also vary a lot in their resistance between different manufacturers- that will affect the voltage reading.

Something else to consider is multimeters should be calibrated regularly. If they aren't then even the handbook specs may not be met. Where I used to work they were calibrated yearly.
 

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I am not an auto electrician and dont profess to be one, but I am not to old to learn new tricks and will listen to anyone that can help me. I am perplexed by the comments from Murdoc and Fillco about my advice. If Ramseyles did not have the equipment or the skill required he would not attempt to repair. I came across this chart and thought it could be useful to anyone who has skill to use it.
Personally I have worked in electrical maintenance for 45yrs and used all kinds of test equipment and I now that all test equipment has to be calibrated etc.
 

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I think your chart is useful, someone has taken the trouble to either test a fuse or calculate the anticipated volt drop across it for a given current, but the meter being used must be capable of providing meaningful readings particularly at these low voltages, otherwise the actual value is swamped by the inaccuracies. Hence taking accuracy of the instrument into account.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
And how accurate is your mV meter to be able to trust that, though it will give an indication something is drawing current
Saw a trick on YouTube about connecting your meter between battery and earth and using amp setting to see what amps are being drawn. Said it should be less than half an amp if it鈥檚 higher remove fuses until it drops. Have done this when new battery went on and after waiting for all components to finish cycling down it was below that so must have been a naff battery. Just finding time now to investigate the rear demister issue. I would like to thank everyone for all help received on this forum and will be back to let you all know how I get on with that 馃憤馃憤馃榾
 

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I am perplexed by the comments from Murdoc and Fillco about my advice.
We're trying to explain that it may not be the least bit accurate. Something anyone who tries that method needs to understand or else they could end up "chasing their tail".
 

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And to be blunt, something that is taught in electrical/electronic engineering or at least I was 50 year ago, multiplication of errors, and that's why its mentioned in the meter specification..

Ah well, back under the stone.
 
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