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Discussion Starter #1
Hey there!

A few weeks back now I had a problem with a dashcam that didn't turn off after being hardwired into a permanent live (now moved to a switched live) where the battery ended up draining to the point that the car wouldn't start a few days later when I needed it so a friend had to come help me jump start it.

The car went into Ford a few days ago to have a different problem fixed and I asked them to test the battery as the Auto Stop/Start system wasn't working. They told me that the battery was healthy but it was only at 50% charge. This makes sense as I had only really been back and forth work since this pandemic started so it probably hadn't done enough mileage to charge back up properly after the "dashcam incident".

So after leaving the Ford garage I took the car on a 1 hour 30 min run on a motorway & A road to charge the battery back up, when I got back home and put the car in neutral and lifted my foot off the clutch the S/S system didn't kick in but I didn't think much of it at the time.

Today at work I asked one of the engineers to put the battery tester on my car and it was still showing 50% charge so during my 90 minute motorway run apparently the battery didn't charge at all... When I did this run I had all the auxillery systems turned off except the media unit where I was listening to some music.

On the cars test menu I checked the battery section before starting the car after this battery test which showed the voltage to be at 11.9v. After starting the car the voltage went up to 14.1v/14.2v. So on the way home from work I kept the battery display on the screen and monitored it and at no point whether accellerating, braking etc did the voltage readout go any higher than 14.2v. I read on here that the regenerative system can sometimes spike as high as 15.2v when doing a "boost charge" during braking but this wasn't the case with my Kuga.

After I arrived home I checked the voltage again with the engine off and the readout was 12.0v then dipped to and stayed at 11.9v again.

Is my alternator not working properly or could there be an issue with the "smart charge" system on the car from the jump start maybe?

Thank you in advance!
 

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A 90 minute run is nowhere near enough to charge a 50% discharged battery. Get it onto a good smart charger and then check if it holds a charge. If the battery is over four years old, such is the poor quality of secondary car cells, that it is VERY probably shot and needs replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
A 90 minute run is nowhere near enough to charge a 50% discharged battery. Get it onto a good smart charger and then check if it holds a charge. If the battery is over four years old, such is the poor quality of secondary car cells, that it is VERY probably shot and needs replacing.
Thanks for the reply!
They said they tested the battery and it was showing as healthy (700a/75ah) currently outputting 664a when measured.

I'm looking to order a smart charger now (any suggestions?) preferably Amazon so I can do it on my day off work tomorrow! haha

EDIT
Even though 90 mins isn't near enough to charge it surely it would have charged slightly above 50% not stayed the same?
Also should the "regeneration system" be spiking the voltage up to 15v+ during engine braking?
 

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I'm looking to order a smart charger now (any suggestions?)
CTek are okay, but pricey. Get something 7 Amps or higher- otherwise it will take a long time to charge up a "flat" battery. Make sure it's something with a float charging or maintenance mode that can be left connected if desired.

Checking the battery via ForScan would also be a good idea as it will give you the SOC (State of Charge) the car's BMS has calculated.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
CTek are okay, but pricey. Get something 7 Amps or higher- otherwise it will take a long time to charge up a "flat" battery. Make sure it's something with a float charging or maintenance mode that can be left connected if desired.

Checking the battery via ForScan would also be a good idea as it will give you the SOC (State of Charge) the car's BMS has calculated.
THanks for the reply! Managed to find a "smart charger" that's compatible with EFB batteries which is 8A. It's arriving today so hopefully the battery will charge. I'm just hoping the alternator isn't broken
 

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Hey there!

A few weeks back now I had a problem with a dashcam that didn't turn off after being hardwired into a permanent live (now moved to a switched live) where the battery ended up draining to the point that the car wouldn't start a few days later when I needed it so a friend had to come help me jump start it.

The car went into Ford a few days ago to have a different problem fixed and I asked them to test the battery as the Auto Stop/Start system wasn't working. They told me that the battery was healthy but it was only at 50% charge. This makes sense as I had only really been back and forth work since this pandemic started so it probably hadn't done enough mileage to charge back up properly after the "dashcam incident".

So after leaving the Ford garage I took the car on a 1 hour 30 min run on a motorway & A road to charge the battery back up, when I got back home and put the car in neutral and lifted my foot off the clutch the S/S system didn't kick in but I didn't think much of it at the time.

Today at work I asked one of the engineers to put the battery tester on my car and it was still showing 50% charge so during my 90 minute motorway run apparently the battery didn't charge at all... When I did this run I had all the auxillery systems turned off except the media unit where I was listening to some music.

On the cars test menu I checked the battery section before starting the car after this battery test which showed the voltage to be at 11.9v. After starting the car the voltage went up to 14.1v/14.2v. So on the way home from work I kept the battery display on the screen and monitored it and at no point whether accellerating, braking etc did the voltage readout go any higher than 14.2v. I read on here that the regenerative system can sometimes spike as high as 15.2v when doing a "boost charge" during braking but this wasn't the case with my Kuga.

After I arrived home I checked the voltage again with the engine off and the readout was 12.0v then dipped to and stayed at 11.9v again.

Is my alternator not working properly or could there be an issue with the "smart charge" system on the car from the jump start maybe?

Thank you in advance!
Hi Vyseroy.
I have a 2016 Titanium X Sport.
Could you explain to me how you get A battery display on the screen in the battery section for testing voltage.
I don't seem to have this function on my Kuga, I have searched every section and cant find anything that relates to the battery, could you please enlighten me as to how you get this section.
 

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You can't display battery voltages in the car, that function simply does not exist. You need a decent multimeter to check battery and alternator voltages.

Welcome to the forum BTW.
 

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Can he put it in self test??

Press and hold OK and turn ignition on. and when guage sweep appears I think you use the up arrow and it will show battery voltage (or maybe down arrow)
 

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True, but it will be like a balance sheet and only show 'instant' voltage and AFAIK you cannot invoke a self-test with the engine running,
 

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I've never tried the self test with engine running but I thought some had. Might try this morning.
Oh indeed its instant voltage though I see the last digit roll pretty quick. Never dug into how useful the voltage display is, prefer the meter.:)
 

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Engine will run and voltage is real time and readable in test mode. I could have driven but no speed or RPM other than them doing a test sweep.
 
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