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Discussion Starter #1
I have a habit og changing the oil more frequently than the service intervals on my cars. On the Kuga, I will change the oil my selfevery 10.000 km and leave it at ford every 20k km or once a year to get the stamp in the service booklet while under waranty.


Also like to do a Oil and filter change before 5.000 kms on new cars like it was done on every car a few years back on between 1.500 and 5.000 kms. Now some brands are doing 40.000 km or 2 years before the oil is changed for the first time.

I am probably over-doing it, as It probably won't make a diference while I am owning the car, but I amhoping the owner owning the car when it's 8 or 10 years old will appreciate when he reads through the service booklet and is hopefullyhaving no problems with blocked oil canals and blocked hydraulic tappets resulting in extensive valve vear and noise etc. or other engine problems



Hope it is not too boring with all the pics and description...



Oil and original oil filter ispurcased and the work can begin.





The engine cover plate just simply lifts out and reveals the engine. The oil filter is located deep down on the left side of the intake.





I have a 14 literPela oil extractor vaccum pump that i normally use on boat engines. Makes getting the oil out through the dip stic tube aneasy and clean job. It drainsthe Kuga of oil i 3 minutes or so.

The dip stick tube narrows a bit down the engine, so I had to use the smallest hose of the 3 sizes that came with the pump.





While the oil is draining, loosen the oil filter cap so most of the oil in the filter housing runs back to the oil pan. 27mm socket and an extender is needed.





To get the oil filter out, i found it theeasiest to remove the big hose from the intercooler from the intake at the intake end and just push it aside a bit.





Old oil filter is a little bit diferent from the new one to my surprise.

Old one has plastic ends, while the new one is slightly larger in lenght and dia and has paper ends. Probably to make a better seal against the top and bottom of the housing since it is made from paper... probably cheaper to make, to...

Old filter:





And the new one. Remember to lube the new O-ring with some oil before fitting it to the filter cap.





Mount the new filter and fill up with oil.

The book said the oil capasity was 5,5 liters when changing the filter. I got out about 5 liters+ with the extractor, so not bad at all.

I put on 5 liters and checked that the level was wellabove half way up before I started the engine.

Let it idle for 20 sec to build up oil pressure. Then let it run at 2krpm for a while before shutting down.





Then, after a minute or so, check the oil level again now that the filter is filled with oil.

I put on about 0.2 liters more to put the level at 3/4 or so. So about5,2 liters in total.





Then it was time to fill out the service booklet. My Norwegian booklet has section for "other work" that i used, so it didn't put it in the place the dealer uses at the yearly service.

Mainly what it says in the pic is: Oil service, 5,1 liters of 5W30 oil with ACEA A1/B1 spec, oil filter, milage+ date and signature.

I put the recipts in a folder that that will follow the car along with other recipts and documents.





So, all done.
takes about 20 mins to half an hour. Not difficult to doat all...

Next one will be at 10.000km in the fall some time and the yearly or 20.000 km inspection at Ford is March next year.
Edited by: sap_2000
 

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Thanks for sharing SAP!


I was initially a bit concerned that the oil was not due to be changed until the first service, 20,000 km. I checked the oil level every few weeks after I got the Kuga to get an idea on how things were going. It seemed fine so then I checked every month or two that the level was Ok. Eventually the oil level did drop to the lower mark on the stick, but that was just before the 20K service, so I let Ford do the change. I didn't add any oil during this whole period. I think replacing the oil as often as you is maybe being too cautious, but the very cold season you get will probably mean that the oil has to work well, so I can understand. Having an extraction pump is a bonus, and I wonder how many other owners have access to one? This makes the job a lot cleaner it seems. The only disadvantage I can think of is that any heavy sludge at the bottom of the sump may not get picked up by the pump, and if I was doing this job, I would probably prefer to use the sumpplug just to allow this to drain out.



 

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Discussion Starter #3
You are probably right about me being to cautious, but as you say, we a have a very cold winter season that does not do the engine any favors with cold starts etc.+ that it does not cost much in oil and filter and thatI actually enjoy doing it



The extraction pump is not expensive at all. This big 14 liter pump is about £100,- or less than what they charge you for the oil itself (if you vere tobuy it at Ford). Not a big investment. Especially when I alsouse for my boat's engines, my other car + my parents cars as well. If you settle for a 5 liter version, the cost is about half of that.



I don't think sump sludge is much ofan issue anymorewith the low-viscocitysyntethicoils we use today. Especially not with the short oil-change intervalls I use.
 

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it helps to have engine at normal temperature before draining oil ( stay clear of hot oil if using sump plug!) as it will drain quicker and also keep most of the carbon etc in free form as its just been pumped round a hot engine.
It won't hurt to change oil's early andI like the idea of recording it too. As I may? keep my car I may have to give serious thought to doing an oil & filter change too ( currently at 2200 miles)
 

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DEAR SIR, (SAP_2000 )
THANK YOU FOR AN IN DEPTH, INSTRUCTION ON HOW TO CHANGE YOUR OIL IN (KUGA)

YOUR HARD WORK AS NOT GONE UN NOTICED, AND WAS GIVEN TO ME IN A THREAD OF ANOTHER MEMBER. MANY THANKS...HODGE
 

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My Oil Service indication has just illuminated on the dash before I start vehicle.



Car has done about 12000 miles, and the oil and filter were allegidly changed 6000 miles ago when I purchased the vehicle.



Iroinically I was going to do an intermediate oil change before the 20k service anyway, so this guide is a great help.



Oil filter doesn't look as if its in the easiest of locations, and I just assumed it would be a the metal canister type!!
 

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Just to update this thread, I did an oil change on my Kuga today, but drained the oil from the more conventional way, i.e the sump plug and I'm really glad I did, as the sump plug had been leaking oil







My car has 12000miles on it now, and it was serviced by a Ford dealer @ 6000miles just 8 months ago. (I've done 6000miles in about 8 months)



Anyway, my oil service light came on this week, so I though for the sake of £50 odd pounds, I'd do an oil and filter change inbetween the regular servicing as the oil is after all the blood of the engine !!





<DIV align=center>Firstly I removed the engine under tray by removing the 7 torx screws as highlighted below:-



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<DIV align=center>Then I found something that I DIDN'T bargain for........ An oil leak


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<DIV align=center>The sump plug took very little effort to slacken, I'm positive that my 10 year old daughter could have slackened it off !! I was pretty angry at this point and luckily for the dealer they were closed this afternoon as they would have a right mouthful over this, as I've just returned from Belgium and Germany in the car !!

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<DIV align=center>The undertray had been catching the drops of oil, therefore there was never any oil stains on my garage floor, as I park the car in the same place every day....

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<DIV align=center>New Oil Filer, Oil Filter Housing O-Ring and New Sump Plug Washer:-

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<DIV align=center>As already mentioned, removal of the upper intercooler pipe makes filter replacement lots easier:-

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<DIV align=center>Approx 5.5 Litres of Semi Synthetic 5w30 oil replenished, then it was time for start up and a quick check around for any obvious oil leaks. The oil filter housing is plastic and only torqued to 25Nm, and the sump plugneeds an 8mm allen key to tighten.

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<DIV align=center>Engine cover refitted and engine bay work completed:-

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<DIV align=center>Then it was time to reset the oil service light by using the guide on this forum


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<DIV align=left>Job done and sorted !! Just really glad I deceided to give an interim oil and filter change to the Kuga as I found an oil leak that my Ford dealer had created


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Isn't the sump plug leak part of a mysterious recall where some owners have been sent a recall and some haven't? I'm sure I read on the forum about this, but could be wrong.
 

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andytdci said:
Isn't the sump plug leak part of a mysterious recall where some owners have been sent a recall and some haven't? I'm sure I read on the forum about this, but could be wrong.




Havent heard about that recall ??
 

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Oil leak recall concerned the transfer box filler or drainplug? didnt have a sealing washer fitted, and the leak ran down and was difficult to pinpoint. Edited by: moondust
 

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what tool did you use to get the sump plug out, changed mine myself last year and can"t remember what i used ?????
 

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sorry just read it was an 8mm alan key in earlier post doh!
 

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Good afternoon chaps.... where is the oil filter located on the 163 BHP diesel Kuga? as its a little different under the bonnet?
cheers J
 

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I dot believe that anybody should ever say you're being too cautious by changing the oil every 6 months like this. It's the best engine preservation technique going and the only thing it hurts is the original posters wallet. It's a clever move and intelligent if you can afford it. I do disagree with the oil pump technique of removal though as you also don't get a chance to clean the sump plugs magnet of any filings like you do in the sump drain technique.

Carry on doing what you want to do
 
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