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My charger will say it's finished well before 24hrs if I'm topping it up, but is still very warm to touch. If I leave it for a few days it is then a lot cooler to touch, so the battery appears to still be drawing a bit of current after 24hrs. That's using a Cteck 7 Amp charger.

I was checking the State Of Charge via ForScan to also see what happens. IIRC it was reading 82% after 24hrs (and giving the BMS the required 3hrs at less than currect flow 100mA time to do it's calibration.)
If your battery warms up during charging it may be on the way out.

All the good batteries I've charged over the years (100's at work) have still be cold after a full charge, the warm ones have always been in questionable condition before charging was attempted.

My Kuga took 9amps for an hour before dropping down to 2 amps.

With you sat in car, ignition on but engine not running there is already a significant draw on the battery.

I reflashed my Powershift and it would have bricked the TCU without a 12 amp charger connected (my 4 amp wouldn't bring voltage up to acceptable level).

11.5 volts is bottom limit when programming a module and the car just sat with ignition on was around that!. Could have been a costly error if I wasn't checking battery voltage.

Plus people sit in car parks with radio on and engine stopped, all takes it's toll on the battery.
 

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If your battery warms up during charging it may be on the way out.
My charger will say it's finished well before 24hrs if I'm topping it up, but is still very warm to touch.
The charger itself. The Cteks are sealed in a plastic case (not a good design for heat dissipation.) I need to leave it again charging for a couple of days and see what ForScan says the SOC is up to.

I reflashed my Powershift and it would have bricked the TCU without a 12 amp charger connected (my 4 amp wouldn't bring voltage up to acceptable level).
I was hooking up my other 10 Amp charger when using ForScan. However, when I checked the battery related data it wasn't supplying enough current to keep the charge up due to the load with the ignition on. People who run ForScan or similar with no charger connected are asking for trouble if they're writing to the vehicle's modules!
 

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The charger itself. The Cteks are sealed in a plastic case (not a good design for heat dissipation.) I need to leave it again charging for a couple of days and see what ForScan says the SOC is up to.



I was hooking up my other 10 Amp charger when using ForScan. However, when I checked the battery related data it wasn't supplying enough current to keep the charge up due to the load with the ignition on. People who run ForScan or similar with no charger connected are asking for trouble if they're writing to the vehicle's modules!
My 12 amp charger on boost (possibly 20 amp) brought the battery voltage up to 13v (after 10 mins) then stabilised at that.

Plenty of people have bricked modules just writing AsBuilt data with no charger connected nevermind firmware updates!.

Spent ages looking for a decent charger with a proper analogue ameter on it (so you can see what current is been drawn by the battery). Ended up with a MayPole metal cased job in the end (bought one for work and one for home).
 

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My 10 Amp charger is a big thing with analogue current and voltage meters. It's in an aluminium heatsink case and has a temperature dependant fan. It will charge in the "absorption" stage at 14.2V for 2hrs and then switch to float (around 13.6V I think?)

The issue is lead acid batteries can take a long time to charge fully. Both my chargers will appear to charge the battery fully in well under a day, but from checking with ForScan (and going by the temp drop of the CTek charger's case) my battery takes a lot longer to actually be fully charged. My battery being probably 4yrs old wouldn't help.
 

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Indeed they do take a while to achieve fully charged condition, does the Kuga charging system do what the MK4 Mondeo did in charging the battery relativly heavy after starting? Oddly enough I've not checked a Kuga I was assuming the charging strategy is similar to the Mondeo (with or without Stop Start if type of battery different on a model without stop start, never checked). On the Mondeo MK4, the battery was hit with a charge rate of 50amp decreasing to 20 amp and then 10amp within a minute after starting, I'm guessing in an effort to replenish what has been used to start the engine. I'll check the Kuga, as its been stood since yesterday morning bearing in mind that I have seen charging currents of 50 amps when decelerating or on overrun. (I use a clip-on ammeter with remote display)
 

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I might have a look on FORScan and see if you can log requested current from the BCM(BMS) etc.

I know when towing the caravan I need full headlights on (this seems to unlock the "SMART" part of the alternator control.

End of the day it was all for probably minuscule improvements in MPG and Emissions and they had to re-invent the batteries to cope with it (EFB's).

My battery was still taking 2 amps after 6 hours so still technically charging at that point. Should have swapped over to the Optimate and left it on overnight.
 

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I have the Optimate also and leave it on all day sometimes and It takes quite a long time till its fully charged
The kuga has never failed to start ever
It starts much better when it is really cold and that is the only time the glow plug light comes on
 

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And yet, even with headlights on at night, I can see the voltage drop to 12.2 or so and the stop start has operated, eventually restarting after being stationary for a period.

I'll hopefully see what current the glowplugs draw prior to starting later today.
 

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Make of this what you will.
Outside temperature 5 degrees.

Unlock car. open bonnet, clip on ammeter. Current out of battery of 10.3 amps (interior lights and radio on) 11.7 volts on battery. 8 amps when interior lights off 11.8V on battery.

Ignition on, current out of battery, peaks at 117 amps for about 2 seconds and then drops to 40 amps for about 30 seconds then 20 amps. This current remains while ever engine is not started. Battery volts 11.6V.

Start engine, current peaks to 443 amps and engine starts in about a second. Current reverses slowly over 4 seconds as voltage across battery rose to 14.8-15V to show charge to battery, which settles at 65 amps for about 5 seconds then suddenly drops to 50amps and then over 25 seconds slowly reduced to around 20 amps at idle (radio still on too). As expected, doesn't increase when rpm taken to 2000.

Left the car for an hour and repeated the above with the same results except on start, the peak starting current was 380 amps which is not surprising of course as it had already turned over..

This is on a Kuga with Stop Start so may be different on a Kuga without stop start if a different battery is fitted.

Edited values prior to starting as I'd still got my additional heater connected (silly me).
 

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11.3v with "ignition" on but car not running is same as ours.

First car I've had where it's been that low but it was the same with a brand new battery sonas expected..

Nice to see some current data posted up, makes a lot of sense.

I assumed the glow plugs pre-heated when the car was unlocked and drivers door opened (with correct outside temp) but could be wrong.

Only had Engine Start Pending twice and that was when straight into car and straight on start button.
 

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I think your right that they preheat with out the warning light coming on
the same as the heated windscreen does
when I looked in the secret menu it also says under 12volts
but as it always starts I am not going to worry
 

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Yes I always see pending start in winter anyway as I usually just clutch down, push button and put seat belt on and engine has started before I've let go of the seatbelt.

Seeing a system voltage of 12.2V when the car is being driven makes a mockery of the old rule of battery terminal voltage of 12.6V other than when you've charged it off the car and I don't hold much creedance to that, as Geoff says and I find the same, battery voltage in a morning has never been 12.0V
 

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These SMART charging cars try to cram as much in when the car is on overrun (so not using fuel to charge battery). It's pants really, batteries don't like that sort of "abuse"..
 

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The AGM batteries are supposed to be able to take this rapid charge and I've certainly seen 50 amps along with the 15V on overrun when I've monitored it. Yes its grasping for air in it application really but I guess as its a simple software tweak and not a major bolt they believe its worth doing. Hey oh
 

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The AGM batteries...
AFAIK the Kuga standard fit battery is EFB not AGM. I believe if an AGM type is required it should not be fitted in the engine bay because they are not good with high temperatures.
 

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Your right, I've no idea why I put AGM, probably because I've no idea. I have it written down here off the battery too. The Ford number is different to what Varta offer probably because the OEM is for Ford.
 

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This was my OEM Varta vs Bosch. Considering Varta manufacture Bosch batteries if you disregard the colour they are nigh on identical (apart from Magic Eye).

I work with AGMs daily, 90% of motorcycles have them fitted for various reasons, main one is better CCA from a smaller package and acid spillage consideration.

All the bikes I've worked with using AGM aim for a steady 14.5 to 14.8v charge rate.

Lithium Ion and LiPo are on the increase but they are more hastle than they are worth imho
..
 

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Well quite a few of the numbers on your OEM correspond with mine but mine most certainly says EFB and not Silver Calcium. Ford started fitting silver calcium in the mid to late 90s along with their original smart charge which had a slightly higher charging voltage instead of the nominal 13.8V.
 
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