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Discussion Starter #1
Recently started suffering clutch slip at only 32,000 miles but obviously out of any warranty so need to get gearbox out and examine clutch.

Surprised that given the number of reported issues with the Dual mass flywheel setup that I can not find any info or tech article on R&R the Kuga gearbox and clutch replacement.

Managed to find info on LUK site that if refitting a genuine LUK clutch with a SAC (self adjusting clutch) that maintains pedal ride height and pressure, it requires use of a specialist tool during refitting.

Invested £4 in PDF workshop manual of ebay but does not seem to include 4x4 model with TDCi engine.

Managed to find some articles but nothing specific to 4x4 model if anyone can point me in right direction be great.

Thanks Zeberdy
 

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Now someone will say otherwise...

The bit that makes it AWD is a small gearbox (PTU - power transfer unit) that is bolted to a standard FWD gearbox to send drive to the rear.

When I did a spell with Jag Landrover in 2012+ (Evoque, Freelander 2) the clutch was the same for FWD & AWD.
(I should know, it was my bit of kit that handled it!)

Now saying that the 180 DW12 is only available with AWD so must have a uprated clutch.

When you say clutch slip.. is it the odd slip, especially on reverse up a slope? Filco & myself have experienced this the odd time.
As the miles add up (477 today), setting off from 1st, I get a bit of slip somehow for a spilt second from a roundabout, I just think the DMF catching up being up & down gearbox when hot.

I tow a lot (not today) so 'normal' clutch slip due to wear or failure not been felt at all.
 

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I have replaced the DMF and clutch on my 2.0 tdci Galaxy and the special tool referred to seems to be to lock the pre-loading on the clutch and/or reset it if required. If the clutch is fitted with care (don't drop it!) then you can get away without having the tool.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for replies,

Started job today bit of a caper getting wipers and scuttle panel off once that was out way stripping down top side was fairly straight forward.

When I jacked up vehicle and supported on stands to look at underneath I was under impression that would need to disconnect 4x4 prop coupling at front remove drive shafts and take out transfer box complete with gearbox.

What i found is that the front coupling was nor accessible as it was located midway behind front subframe and looked like only option to do this would be to remove complete front subframe with power rack and wishbone assemblies ?

Trying to find more info on this may have to pay for access to Ford ETIS system £8 an hour.

Bit concerned if i did remove subframe and steering it would all need realignment unless its dowled in somehow?

Unless I can unbolt transfer box from gearbox and leave in situ just removing box but doubt that.

Pics here of transfer box that bolts to gearbox shown upside down in this picture.


If anyone could provide any info on this be appreciated.

Thanks
 

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On my Galaxy the subframe has to be removed with wishbones attached but with steering rack unbolted and tied up. It has to be aligned when re-fitted with special pegs (or modified bolts) and then the steering/wheel alignment will still need checking.

Bob
 

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Did you get my PM?.

I left PTU bolted to the engine and left propshaft in situ when doing our MK2 Powershift.

Drop subframe with steering rack still attached and you shouldn't have any alignment issues.

You can buy two locating pegs for the subframe for assembly but I didn't use any.
 
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