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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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Just seen this for sale on eBay and the CD mounting bracket can be difficult to come by.


Both of these are from Gala but not sure why the second link is more money and possibly more than new at Ford. I would check with Ford for the price. Quote them FV41-S044F80-AE and they should be able to cross reference it from that.
 

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Ford Kuga 2013 Titanium X
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Discussion Starter · #802 ·
The second one is definitely more than the new price. Mine was around £45
 
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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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Can you post the link. I would like to look at more pictures of it and I will double check my wiring diagram as the car has two leads which go to the ACM and want to doubly check if just one of those leads links back to the APIM and button panel.
 

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Ford Kuga 2013 Titanium X
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Discussion Starter · #807 ·
For me, it seems to overcomplicate things. I've read the description and there's a lead for this and a lead for that. You need to plug a USB into the Sync 1 USB socket to power something. It's way too expensive, especially as you still need to buy the USB hub.

Buy the lead from In Car Tec for £40, yes it needs modifying but the money you save will buy the USB hub as well and still be cheaper than that 1 lead.
 

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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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You highlight the web page until it goes blue, right click if you are using a laptop, copy and then paste like this. If you are using a phone or tablet then it's long press on the link.


The lead is too short and you would still need to extend the connector which goes to the existing car loom above the glovebox. On the Focus the APIM for sync 1 is behind the heatings controls. The ACM lead looks to short as well. The plug for the radio panel is at the wrong end for a Kuga. You would end up buying that lead and having to extend everything.

You can buy the correct usb lead from Ali Express or just use a normal mini usb lead. I bought the proper one. If that lead was say £50 it would be worth buying it to extend but not at £120

Product Electrical wiring Cable Gadget Electrical supply
 
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2014 titanium 2.0 led number plate and puddle lights aliexpress led drls
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The item description says that they make the cables themselves so may be able to get them to make a longer version for the kuga you would think someone on here would sell them ready made considering the price they go for.
 

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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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Believe me I have thought about it. I have sourced the plugs for a sync 1 to sync 3 conversion lead. The only one I couldn't find was sync 2 connectors for USB hub and GPSM.

The right way to make a loom is to know the lengths of each piece and peg it out on a board. I just made mine to fit and added a bit.
 
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2014 Ford Kuga Titanium AWD Automatic
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So I created the wiering loom last weekend and felt I needed to try it today. I got in under the glovebox plugged everything in and the CD player get power however the sync3 screen does not come on at all. I assume it’s a wiring issue however I can’t figure out where.

so question - do I need to have all the cables connected at the 4”screen plug to test the system? Currently they are not connected.

also do I need to do any specific programming before the screen will turn on? I assumed not but happy to be corrected.


I have not modified the dash yet as I wanted to make sure the sync 3 system works before I make the final install
 

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So I created the wiering loom last weekend and felt I needed to try it today. I got in under the glovebox plugged everything in and the CD player get power however the sync3 screen does not come on at all. I assume it’s a wiring issue however I can’t figure out where.

so question - do I need to have all the cables connected at the 4”screen plug to test the system? Currently they are not connected.

also do I need to do any specific programming before the screen will turn on? I assumed not but happy to be corrected.


I have not modified the dash yet as I wanted to make sure the sync 3 system works before I make the final install
so it turns out I swapped pin 16 and 17 on the sync1 round so 17 was going to 19 instead of 20.
Sometimes you check and check and check again and I clearly made the same mistake 3 times in the checking.

Bluetooth, navy etc all work without codeing. Although for testing purposes I was using the sync1 ACM.
I’ll do the final install next week and then get the codeing down as nessesary.
 

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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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so it turns out I swapped pin 16 and 17 on the sync1 round so 17 was going to 19 instead of 20.
Sometimes you check and check and check again and I clearly made the same mistake 3 times in the checking.

Bluetooth, navy etc all work without codeing. Although for testing purposes I was using the sync1 ACM.
I’ll do the final install next week and then get the codeing down as nessesary.
That's a job well done so far. It's easy to get a pin wrong. Mine was right first time but I was using two pairs of reading glasses at times and I pulled all the wires out I didn't need and labelled them up as I went along.

Your Bluetooth working with sync 1 ACM is a good sign. That's the only thing I needed to programme on the ACM. We had a French guy who's steering wheel controls didn't work for sync 3 so that's something to check.

The only other thing that didn't work on mine was the park pilot display. I had the beeps but nothing on screen. If your park pilot works then you may not have anything to programme.

If you have any queries regarding sync 3 then andspenka will be your man to ask.
 

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2014 Ford Kuga Titanium AWD Automatic
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so I have made all the final wiring connections etc and the only two items not working is the reversing sensors does not display on the screen- assume this would be for programming.
And the button panel does not control anything which I assume is a wiring issue.
@smartguy69 @andspenka would either of you be able to confirm if the MM-can from pin 16&17 need connecting to the button panel or is the m-can only
From pin fcdim pin 4&5? I can’t see anything else that connects to the button panel.
Thanks in advance
 

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Ford Kuga 2013 Titanium X
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Discussion Starter · #815 ·
Your parking sensor display is to do with the PDC architecture, I had this issue.

Pins 16, 17 need to go to 19 & 20. for Sync 3 they don't need to splice connection into the GPSM. I disconnected mine and it still works perfectly.

The button panel needs the 2 wires from the small screen plug, If I remember rightly, only 1 of them in the original button panel plug had a wire going to it, I needed to add the second pin. Can't remember which one it was though.
 

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Your parking sensor display is to do with the PDC architecture, I had this issue.

Pins 16, 17 need to go to 19 & 20. for Sync 3 they don't need to splice connection into the GPSM. I disconnected mine and it still works perfectly.

The button panel needs the 2 wires from the small screen plug, If I remember rightly, only 1 of them in the original button panel plug had a wire going to it, I needed to add the second pin. Can't remember which one it was though.
Thanks, that helps a bit.
I have the pin 16/17 going to 19/20 so that is all good.

I will have a look at the button panel wiring again tomorrow. Before ripping everything apart I thought I would ask about the m-can first narrows the fault finding a bit. I also did not splice the gps and it’s working so agree that may not be needed.
 

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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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I will check on the radio panel. It's in this thread somewhere. I will report back.

@Joe Z - checks done. To get button panel working.

Connect small screen plug PIN 5 to radio button panel PIN 4. There won't be a pin in pin 4 so you have to borrow one from somewhere. Originally I used one from the small screen plug as I cut mine off. It's not perfect but works. If you have any pins from the APIM adapter lead you bought they work better. I think I had to bend the retaining tab to make it work.

Connect small screen plug PIN 4 to radio button panel PIN 7. There will be an existing wire in PIN 7 on the radio button plug. You need to cut the wire leaving a couple of inches or so to the plug. Isolate the wire on the car's wiring loom. Connect your small screen plug PIN 4 to the pigtail wire of PIN 7 on the radio plug. Button panel will now work.

Whilst you are working on the radio button panel plug, put wires in PIN 3 and PIN 5. The live is PIN 3 for the CD slot illumination. PIN 5 from the button panel is earth for the CD slot light.
 
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I will check on the radio panel. It's in this thread somewhere. I will report back.

@Joe Z - checks done. To get button panel working.

Connect small screen plug PIN 5 to radio button panel PIN 4. There won't be a pin in pin 4 so you have to borrow one from somewhere. Originally I used one from the small screen plug as I cut mine off. It's not perfect but works. If you have any pins from the APIM adapter lead you bought they work better. I think I had to bend the retaining tab to make it work.

Connect small screen plug PIN 4 to radio button panel PIN 7. There will be an existing wire in PIN 7 on the radio button plug. You need to cut the wire leaving a couple of inches or so to the plug. Isolate the wire on the car's wiring loom. Connect your small screen plug PIN 4 to the pigtail wire of PIN 7 on the radio plug. Button panel will now work.

Whilst you are working on the radio button panel plug, put wires in PIN 3 and PIN 5. The live is PIN 3 for the CD slot illumination. PIN 5 from the button panel is earth for the CD slot light.
thanks very much for this. I am pretty sure I have a wiring issue between the small screen and button panel. Good thinking on the cd slot light. I remember reading about it but it’s not been on the short list of items to sort.

On the ACM unit I have a sync3 one but so far everything on the sync1 one is working. Would you recommend I swap the sync1 out or is it a case why mess with something that works.
I can always stick the sync3 one on eBay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #819 ·
When you say everything is working, have you tried the Bluetooth yet? Phone calls, we all had issues with being heard, you can hear the caller but they can't hear you.
 
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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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It might be in my head but I thought the sync 1 ACM was a better sound. I don't remember seeing any Sony sound system being mentioned on sync 3. I only swapped mine as I wanted the rear bung. I had to change a setting for the reverse chimes on the sync 3 ACM.

Also check steering wheel controls work using sync 1 ACM.
 
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