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I think the pins you want are Tyco 1924955-3

Not 100% though. That was info from mustang site.

 

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Discussion Starter #542
There is an error on the drawing though as there is no pin 6 and shows two x pin 7. It could be worth a try although I do know someone who hasn't fitted their top cover yet.
You volunteering then?
 

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You volunteering then?
Yeah I will check it out. I still not fixed my top cover on yet as I had a ridiculous problem in trying to get the radio panel to fit. I have two as the first one I bought was scratched so I took the vents and the radio control bit off which fits perfectly and then when I come to fit the good one it's stuck up at the front. Kept trimming the polystyrene off and it just wouldn't sit down. The tiniest bit of plastic was catching on the screw heads underneath.

It's not perfect yet as I thought I had the screen in exactly the right place but it's just about 1mm too high. I put slots in my existing cd tray which the apim brackets sit in so unfortunately the screen needs to come out again. I remember Paul saying there was nothing to fit the front panel to so I am going to be a little inventive with some abs plastic and create some little ramps with slots in so the fascia sits in something at the front. I have some MEK in the garage, that's methyl ethyl ketone which is great for sticking abs together. I could stick it in with some 3m tape but would prefer it to be more like it should be. I have some brackets coming off the cd bracket where the cover needs to be fastened at the top. I still not given up hope on the focus bezel but it may be if interest to any focus modders as I have apim brackets and ACM for focus sync 2.
 
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These are the details for the pins used in the steering wheel. I'm fairly sure most of the connectors throughout the BCM etc. all use the same terminal contacts.

TE Connectivity GET .64 series connector
Suitable Contacts:
1393367-1 for 24-22AWG
1393366-1 for 19-18AWG
RS Components here https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7560843/ and 1393366-1 | TE Connectivity, GET .64 Female Crimp Terminal Contact 18AWG 1393366-1 | RS Components
Between these and the above post #54 you should be able to locate the correct type.
 

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These are the details for the pins used in the steering wheel. I'm fairly sure most of the connectors throughout the BCM etc. all use the same terminal contacts.



Between these and the above post #54 you should be able to locate the correct type.
The link for 7560843 didn't work but you can find the terminal on the RS website. They look to be the same pin what is in the 8 pin connector on the radio panel. They are different to the ones I took out of the APIM lead I bought.

I needed a pin for the 8 pin connector and used one from the block that goes to the 4" display. It wasn't the same pin but it works.

On my sync 2 conversion I also noticed the plug that goes to the usb media hub has even small pins than the APIM ones.

I could measure the spare apim pins I have with a vernier.
 

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Unfortunately, the aftermarket harness uses different pins. The original APIM ones do not fit.


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To remove the dash,
Did the doors need to be removed?
Did the HVAC have to be disconnected?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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To remove the dash,
Did the doors need to be removed?
Did the HVAC have to be disconnected?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
@andspenka will have to help you with that. He replaced the dash. I have not.
 

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Discussion Starter #549
No the doors don’t need to be removed, just everything else. Steering wheel, knee airbag, centre console side panels, glovebox and heating controls do need to be removed.

5361
 
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That’s a relief! I was reading that it was much more intense according to the shop manual.
Thank you.


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No the doors don’t need to be removed, just everything else. Steering wheel, knee airbag, centre console side panels, glovebox and heating controls do need to be removed.

View attachment 5361
That's a lot of work for just a plastic mounting for a screen and front panel lol. I did look at dashboards but only with a view to cutting out the plastic insert required to fit in mine.

Did you have to disconnect the HVAC.
 

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Discussion Starter #552

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Yes, that would be the bit where I said, the heating controls need to be removed.
Doh, I must have missed that..........I am going to check pins 3 and 5 tomorrow on the FCIM to see if it fires the cd light up. I have the fire brigade standing by.
 

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@Mark 123 - @andspenka - @Built25

Sync 2 & 3 Retro Fit - CD Player Slot light connection

Correct procedure for connecting CD light.

Insert a new pin in the FCIM radio panel to pin 3. This is live and connects to green wire on CD Player light
Splice a new wire to pin 5 on the FCIM connector. This is earth and goes to black wire on CD Player light. It is possible you could connect from any other earth source.

I used my spare APIM wires that were unused from the extension lead we bought. They are a nice tight fit on the CD Player light.

I also used a spare APIM wire to create a new pin for pin 3 on the APIM. It was a little slack so made it a little smaller by pressing in the little tabs that mate with the pin. Be careful as if you bend it to much you can bend easily bend the pin on the FCIM panel. I tried mine as a loose wire first. Make sure you insert it right way up and the tab locks. You can also use a pin from the small screen display which fit as well but be careful it doesn't pop out.

5384
 
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Discussion Starter #557
Nice one (y)
 

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I thought in had run into a problem with there not being a wire in pin 3 on FCIM and came in and wrote post 554. Then I had a Eureka moment and referred back to the wiring diagram.

There are two earth wires I think on the old 4" display so may be easier to pick the earth up from there. I may check or just remove some loom tape on the FCIM. You can slide one of the spare male pins from the apim in the back of the socket for pin 5 for the earth but I think I would prefer a proper connection.

I will see if there is a pigtail kit for the plug for the CD light but don't hold up much hope.
 
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Straight Sync to Sync 3.
From the sound of things, everything except the SYNC APIM location are the same.
The wires from the FCIM are exactly what I have too. Control panel wires, done. Reverse camera wires, done.

Still working on sourcing pins for the aftermarket APIM harness plug to add the two wires for the steering wheel controls.

Picked up a satellite plug 3->2 with filter, for the SYNC 3 module.


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You may find this useful. The 54 pin APIM is known as C2383

 

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@Mark 123 - @andspenka - @Built25

Sync 2 & 3 Retro Fit - CD Player Slot light connection

Correct procedure for connecting CD light.

Insert a new pin in the FCIM radio panel to pin 3. This is live and connects to green wire on CD Player light
Splice a new wire to pin 5 on the FCIM connector. This is earth and goes to black wire on CD Player light. It is possible you could connect from any other earth source.

I used my spare APIM wires that were unused from the extension lead we bought. They are a nice tight fit on the CD Player light.

I also used a spare APIM wire to create a new pin for pin 3 on the APIM. It was a little slack so made it a little smaller by pressing in the little tabs that mate with the pin. Be careful as if you bend it to much you can bend easily bend the pin on the FCIM panel. I tried mine as a loose wire first. Make sure you insert it right way up and the tab locks. You can also use a pin from the small screen display which fit as well but be careful it doesn't pop out.

View attachment 5384
Nice one 👍
I haven’t been on here for a while, I used to get an email notification when anybody put a post on here but for some reason that has stopped 🤦‍♂️
I will have a go at this 👍
 
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