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Unfortunately, I haven't got the ACM, thought I did. I've got others, APIM, APIM As Built, BCM & IPC.

I'll grab it at some point.
No worries. I think I have balders as built somewhere so I could check that as well
 

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Ford Kuga 2013 Titanium X
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Discussion Starter #522
As promised, a bit late I know........

ACM
5184


APIM
5185


BCM
5186


IPC
5187
 
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Cheers, I will check against mine. Did you use Windows snip tool to take a screen shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #524
Yep.
 

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ST-Line Edition 2019 AWD - Petrol - Auto
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Wow - I've just looked at the start of this thread @andspenka :eek:

Bloomin' 'ell that's a leap of faith!!!

Well done sir - that gets a triple thumbs up for sure (y)(y)(y)
 
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How do I secure the screen with half the dash hacked away? And the new cd frame on top?
You need to secure the screen using any brackets you can find lining it up with the front cover.

Mark123 fastened his screen to the front cover and then secured screen and cover plate in position as one unit.

I am experimenting using focus screen brackets and the focus bezel. Not sure but it will work yet as I only got the brackets on Sunday.

When I cut away the dash on mine I took both of the air vents out of the front cover and only took away what I need to so the cover plate fitted. I then only cut enough plastic away so the screen would fit in.

I will let you know how I get on using focus bezel.

The top cover fastens to the top left and right holes of the front cover plate and to the cd mounting bracket.
 

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Wow - I've just looked at the start of this thread @andspenka :eek:

Bloomin' 'ell that's a leap of faith!!!

Well done sir - that gets a triple thumbs up for sure (y)(y)(y)
yeah, it’s a bit of a task. Me and @balders spent many a night discussing prior to actually undertaking this then many more tweaking and perfecting it afterwards.

I will let you know how I get on using focus bezel.
In about 6 months time do you reckon?
As @smartguy69 has already said, there isn’t anywhere to fasten the screen, you just have to make something. I fastened mine to the CD player cage with some brackets. The trick is to not take too much away otherwise the screen will be slack and wobbly.
 
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In about 6 months time do you reckon?

[/QUOTE]

Cheeky, hoping it doesn't run into next year. If I can't make the focus bezel work I am just going to use some old style radio brackets, the ones that are slotted. The idea of using the focus bezel is that once the bezel is in the right place the screen won't be able to move up or down or left and right.
 
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@Kevinjessep92

Using the focus bezel doesn't work. It my work by removing all of the old plastic for the sync 1 cd player but I wasn't going to do that. Using the Kuga screen brackets I put the sync 2 Insitu and the front panel on. I had purposely left some of the plastic in place for the brackets to sit on. The brackets sit about 36mm from the bezel on the front panel. I put masking tape on the plastic where the brackets were going to sit, removed the screen front panel and one of the sync 2 screen brackets. I then put the front panel back on and used the bracket as a guide to where I needed to put a slot in the plastic for the brackets to sit on.

I used a small hacksaw blade and cut a slot in each side and kept checking for the right height. When I was happy it was equal height at both sides I used some sticky backed foam between the back of the screen and cd player to temporarily hold the screen in place.

I found it easier to have the vents removed from the front panel to check the right fitting of the screen.

It is difficult to get a mounting at the bottom. A hacksaw blade is about the same thickness as the bracket so the screen can't move forwards or backwards but mine doesn't move at the bottom.

I may cannibalise the focus bezel and weld it to the existing plastic with a soldering iron. Not too sure yet or I may just use some brackets and connect it to the cd player bracket.

I am nearly there but something is stopping the front panel going back in place with both air vents attached so will look at that tomorrow when it's light.
 

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@andspenka

Re: CD Slot illumination. I found this on the wiring diagram. Pin 3 on the FCIM appears to be the feed for the CD light with pin 5 being earth. I will check the colours on mine. Diagram shows:

Pin 3 - White/Orange
Pin 5 - Black/White

There is an error on the drawing though as there is no pin 6 and shows two x pin 7. It could be worth a try although I do know someone who hasn't fitted their top cover yet.
Screen Shot 2021-01-03 at 22.26.06.png


5353
 
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@andspenka

Re: CD Slot illumination. I found this on the wiring diagram. Pin 3 on the FCIM appears to be the feed for the CD light with pin 5 being earth. I will check the colours on mine. Diagram shows:

Pin 3 - White/Orange
Pin 5 - Black/White

There is an error on the drawing though as there is no pin 6 and shows two x pin 7. It could be worth a try although I do know someone who hasn't fitted their top cover yet. View attachment 5352

View attachment 5353

Panel Button connector for my 2016 Escape.


FCIM connector for my 2016 Escape

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Panel Button connector for my 2016 Escape.


FCIM connector for my 2016 Escape

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Cheers, that confirms what I thought. I don't think pin 6 is used here either. I couldn't find my notes for the 8 pin radio panel when I wrote my last post. Your 12 pin connector for the 4" display is the same as ours.

You guys in the USA seem to have better access to connectors and pigtail kits than we do here. It would have been a lot easier doing the wiring if I could have sourced the 12 pin pigtail required to plug in to the loom on the FCDIM 4" display. I cut the plug off mine and then used a new multi connector for the wires I needed. I know they are available as there are companies selling plug and play wiring looms for sync 2 upgrade.

Your usb media hub which is also 12 pin I think different to ours and I couldn't find a plug to fit the hub and even emailed Molex. They were of little help. We also have an 8 pin media hub as used on some Focus models but I couldn't find a plug for that either .In the end I bought a Focus 4 pin type and used a sync 3 connector lead. Currently it means I have only 1 usb outlet and have lost the aux port but who needs aux these days.
 

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I’m just figuring out the wiring. I suspected we may have different connections here and there, but port 7 seems to have an either/or setup depending on the control panel type and the 4.2 vs 8.
Currently my RH steering buttons don’t work. I think I figured out that the new APIM harness is missing two wires to send the signals from my steering wheel to my APIM. Aside from that, I’m mapping the APIM and ACM programming and comparing results line-by-line. This thread has been very helpful getting everything started and sorted.
Hopefully the pick-n-pull had new vehicles show up today. I need a couple more pieces.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I’m just figuring out the wiring. I suspected we may have different connections here and there, but port 7 seems to have an either/or setup depending on the control panel type and the 4.2 vs 8.
Currently my RH steering buttons don’t work. I think I figured out that the new APIM harness is missing two wires to send the signals from my steering wheel to my APIM. Aside from that, I’m mapping the APIM and ACM programming and comparing results line-by-line. This thread has been very helpful getting everything started and sorted.
Hopefully the pick-n-pull had new vehicles show up today. I need a couple more pieces.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So we have someone from the USA doing a sync 2 upgrade from sync 1 or are you going straight to sync 3.

@andspenka and @balders were the first over here to do the upgrade and post it. I have just recently done mine and I ran into all sorts of problems.

On the old sync 1 FCIM radio panel you have to cut the wire to pin 7 from the car and isolate it. You take the wire from pin 4 from the 4" display and connect it to the tail on pin 7 for the FCIM radio panel.

You also need to take the wire from pin 5 from the 4" display to pin 4 on the FCIM radio panel. If your is the same as ours then pin 4 on the cars wiring loom will be empty. You will need a new pin to insert.

To get your RH steering controls to work you need to do this:

Take pin 7 from the 4" display to pin 46 on the APIM (8" display)
Take pin 10 from the 4" display to pin 47 on the APIM (8" display)

If you are doing sync 2 upgrade then you also need to connect two wires to the GPSM module.
 

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Straight Sync to Sync 3.
From the sound of things, everything except the SYNC APIM location are the same.
The wires from the FCIM are exactly what I have too. Control panel wires, done. Reverse camera wires, done.

Still working on sourcing pins for the aftermarket APIM harness plug to add the two wires for the steering wheel controls.

Picked up a satellite plug 3->2 with filter, for the SYNC 3 module.


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So what model are you converting this Sync in, is it an Escape?

When you say the Sync APIM location is in a different position, do you know where the original APIM unit is located at all on your model?

Ours was above the glovebox, it had the same 54 pin connector as Sync 2 & 3 but the wires weren't really long enough to reach where the APIM is on the back of the screen. They possibly could be if you stripped it all out of the taping etc. but that's a right mess on. So all we needed to do was extend the wiring and swap some pins around, that's why I bought one of the extension cables and did the pin swaps on that, so my original car wiring is still in the same pin positions but it's in the right locations at the Sync 2 or 3 end of the cable. Also the reason why we didn't need any additional pins.
 

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Straight Sync to Sync 3.
From the sound of things, everything except the SYNC APIM location are the same.
The wires from the FCIM are exactly what I have too. Control panel wires, done. Reverse camera wires, done.

Still working on sourcing pins for the aftermarket APIM harness plug to add the two wires for the steering wheel controls.

Picked up a satellite plug 3->2 with filter, for the SYNC 3 module.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I had details of the pins somewhere. A shame you are not in the UK as I have some spare ones both male and female for the apim. I bought the camera extension lead and removed the wires that were not being used.

You will need the sync 3 media hub. The sync 2 media hub I used has the same 4 pin plug as the sync 3 one so bought a lead from China to fit. Same as this one. The 4 pin plug on the left fits the sync 3 media hub.

Wiring Adapter Cable GEN 2a for Ford SYNC 2 To SYNC 3 Retrofit USB Media HUB | eBay

You will need a usb lead as well. This one is long enough to go from the centre console to the APIM and fits correctly at both ends.

 
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