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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have I bought a dodgy Kuga? I read on the forums that U codes are fine as it's because I'm using an elm config. But the others
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and it has its MOT in December.

It looks like a handful could be due to a low battery voltage, but I believe it's not long had it's battery replaced.
It's making me not want to drive it though it's not sluggish to drive or has any engine lights.

Please help, I'm giving up already. Appreciate any advice.

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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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Hi @xShadPro and welcome to the forum. You need to clear all the codes and then see what comes back and list them here.

Is there anything not working on the car.
 
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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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I think you have already done a bit of your own research. What is the battery voltage reading as if it's low that can create some of the error codes. I believe the threshold for Forscan is 11.6 volts so if it's less than that it may throw a code or two.

Irrespective of the battery being replaced recently I would still get it load tested and at the same time have the alternator output checked.

I would say if the car is behaving itself with everything working as it should be then there should be nothing to worry about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think you have already done a bit of your own research. What is the battery voltage reading as if it's low that can create some of the error codes. I believe the threshold for Forscan is 11.6 volts so if it's less than that it may throw a code or two.

Irrespective of the battery being replaced recently I would still get it load tested and at the same time have the alternator output checked.

I would say if the car is behaving itself with everything working as it should be then there should be nothing to worry about.
How would I go about testing this, sorry for my ignorance. Will the voltage be on forescan itself or the secret menu when holding reset?

Same for the load testing I guess that's a garage jobby? I hope you're right! Thank you for your response btw.
 

Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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That looks better. I wouldn't be too concerned about the U1900-20 code. All the CANBUS systems terminate at the instrument cluster on the mk1. There can be an issue with the cluster on the mk1 but that normally has other symptoms associated with it such no display or not being able to start the car.

Not sure about the ACM code but it could relate to a speaker not working. If you click on it then it may give you a clue as to what is wrong.

Ford diagnostic trouble codes (cardiagnostics.be)

You can test the alternator output by just buying a cheap multimeter and put it across the battery terminals with the engine running. Assuming you car doesn't have stop/start with a smart alternator it should be reading somewhere around 14.4volts with the engine running.

A battery load test, also called a drop test, is where a simulated load is placed on the battery which will determine if it has any faulty cells. In my day it looked like one of these. Places like ATS who do commercial tyres and batteries will have one. There is probably a more modern equivalent now but this is what I remember.

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