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2015 TDCi manual with fixed towbar and dedicated electrics
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Discussion Starter #21
Update: - going round to pals tomorrow - he thinks that the control unit (raf madule?) is proabably at fault in some way as I mentioned the boot was a teeny bit damp (the white square cloth patch under the spare wheel lining was wet to the touch, but not pools of water), and he thinks the power lead may be gunked up as a result?

Here's hoping :)
 

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2015 TDCi manual with fixed towbar and dedicated electrics
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Discussion Starter #22
So - went round to my mates today, had the boot panels out - the control unit was as dry as a bone, and all connectors looked to be clean, all power options chased and checked out ok, and with the car turning over with fob next to the steering column, he still reckons it is the control unit (as that is what the original fault code indicated).

So, biting the bullete and going to a local place that specialises in this in terms of coding a new one if needed or repair the current one, so will let you all know on Monday.
 

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2013 Titanium X with 2017 Powershift Conversion.
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Is there not a procedure to re-sync the fobs?.

All the bike alarms I've fitted have a function to re-sync keyfobs. They work off a rolling code and if the fob and car get confused you can re-sync them.

Normally holding two buttons down at same time for 30 seconds.
 

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2015 TDCi manual with fixed towbar and dedicated electrics
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Discussion Starter #24
Hi Keith, the main fob was working, then suddenly stopped. The spare didn’t work, so changed battery in both, but it doesn’t appear to be that. Having changed a battery before, the fob was without a battery for about 10 mins and it worked fine without a re-sync, this time was without a battery for no more than 10 seconds. Same for the spare fob (both are genuine Ford fobs).

Hoping to get some news on the control module next week...
 

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What was the fault code.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Apologies smartguy - didnt see your respopnse. :/

Car is fixed - the garage did all the same things as the RAC guy (including removing the control unit again) and then did a bit of headscratching - once they got the specific wiring for the car from Ford, it turns out that where I had a reversing camera fitted, the piggyback fuse (in the fuse box on other side of boot) jaws had splayed open - meaning that although the fuses were good, because the piggyback fuse was not making a connection, which in turn meant no power was getting to the KVM module in the boot.

Once the jaws were closed, hey presto, all working fine..

Thank you all for your help with this, only £62 lighter for what I thought would be a long drawn out and expensive process...
 

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Thanks for posting the update and good to see it's sorted.
 
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