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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good morning all. First time asking for help on here.

This morning my wife's kuga has failed to start. The car unlocks, get in, push the start button and nothing. No ignition comes on. Immobiliser light continues to flash on dash. So I am assuming the Immobiliser is failing to shut off.

I can't even scan it as the ignition won't turn on.

Battery seems fine. Lights work as they should. Stereo powers up fine. Boot release works.

Any pointers would be grately appreciated before I call in the auto electrician.

Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, so I've purchased a cheap multimeter and I have 12v across the battery terminals. So that's OK. Although it does look original it appears to be I good order power wise.

I have checked fuse 11 in the engine bay and that is fine.

I have also put a brand new battery in the key fob.

The red light is continuing to flash on the dash after I have unlocked the car. I can't remember if this was the case when the car was working fine. To me it suggests the Immobiliser is still active. Hence why the ignition will not power up or engine attempt to turn over and start.

Can anyone recommend anything else I may try before making that call.
 

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Premium White 2018 Kuga ST 183BHP Auto 4x4
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Check relay R4 and R13 as to wether they are operating. listen for an audible click. Check fuse 11 and 13 and check for voltage on each side o fuse by putting one side of meter to earth and look for battery voltage.

Relay 4 is ignition and R13 is starter.

This drawing might help.
 

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Mr. Happy
Kuga 2ltr AWD Titanium X, Midnight Sky.
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We LOVE a happy ending J4ck0.................thanks for the update matey.
 
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Hi all
Linked i think to the above discussion is a problem i have with a 2009 duratorq diesel. the problem began early last year when the drivers window stopped operating, then it was impossible to lock the car on the drivers side (this is RHD) with the remote. It was taken into a ford dealer down here in France (we are english living here hence RHD). They diagnosed the need for a new drivers door module and something called a carrier plate. Total bill was 700 euros.
Got the car back, then a few weeks later the stop/start totally failed - no ignition, just the red flashing light above the info display. A local garage towed it in and got the following fault codes; UO140 and UO155 which relate i think to being unable to communicate with the CAN.
The local garage was unable to do any more because they said they needed a ford dealer diagnostic.
So back it went to the ford dealer. At this point lock down began. A few months later we returned to the dealer - he had said all was ok. On trying the car, the same door/window issue appeared and there was a strange clicking noise coming from the down in the passenger footwell - also a smell of damp.
We left it with them. After a second lock down we picked it up. Driving home the engine went into limp home mode with a fault saying DPF - diesel particulate filter. That specific problem was dealt with by the local garage fitting a new DPF.
A few days after that, i got engine malfunction warning light and a comment about oil service but the car drove fine - no limp home. But i found on the internet that i could remove the warning by switching on ignition and pressing brake and throttle down for 30 seconds. That sorted the warning and i was just about to do an oil change when the same no start problem recurred.
So now we are back to square one - cant start the engine, flashing red light, doors dont lock.
Sorry for this very long email but i really dont know where to go next. When its ok its a brilliant car - performs well, great 4x4 etc but when it doesnt...
Although my french is pretty good its quite difficult over here trying to sort a complex technical problem - and i am afraid the ford dealer has been less than helpful
any advice much appreciated
 

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Mr. Happy
Kuga 2ltr AWD Titanium X, Midnight Sky.
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Welcome Kugapatrick.
I would have gathered that the damp smell means the floor pan and the bulk pan have come apart, in as much that the mastic they use has cracked and let water into the passenger foot well.
If you look behind the glove box theres a fuse box and if damp can and has before caused loads of electrical problems for the mk1.
I would look at what is the easiest to check and go down that route first as Ford dealers are notorious rip off merchants.
 

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Welcome Kugapatrick.
I would have gathered that the damp smell means the floor pan and the bulk pan have come apart, in as much that the mastic they use has cracked and let water into the passenger foot well.
If you look behind the glove box theres a fuse box and if damp can and has before caused loads of electrical problems for the mk1.
I would look at what is the easiest to check and go down that route first as Ford dealers are notorious rip off merchants.
Hi Happyarry
Many thanks for this quick response and very useful advice. It all makes sense. The ford dealer had the car left outside for months, during a period of storms and intense rain. What i didnt mention was that there seems also to be a sealing problem with the windscreen - so cold mornings its damp inside and there is whistling of wind when driving on the motorway. We bought this secondhand so are just getting used to its foibles. We have a ford mondeo mark3 also which is brilliant and we had thought the kuga would be equally reliable.
Anyway, now to investigate the damp issues. Thanks again this is a great forum
 

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Mr. Happy
Kuga 2ltr AWD Titanium X, Midnight Sky.
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Plenty of friendly advice on here matey, let us know how you get on with the investigation.
(y)
 

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Plenty of friendly advice on here matey, let us know how you get on with the investigation.
(y)
Hi again Happyarry/all
So somehow i managed to get the car started - i plugged in my obd2 reader, cleared a code that said not connected to body control mode, and it started, albeit with a warning saying acceleration reduced.
Before that, this morning the garage dropped the car back to me . I went through the following checks;
all functions work when ignition is on - lights, windows, doors etc. Every time i pressed ignition the red alarm light flashed, no start.
I checked all fuses in the passenger and engine compartment - all ok
Disconnected then re connected the battery.
Then ran the obd2 diagnostic. bcm not connected, erased code - start.
DSC_1286.JPG
DSC_1286.JPG

When i looked at the engine fusebox, it didnt tally up with the diagram in the handbook - see attached - so i dont know which relays cover issues like the bcm, key start etc - any advice on that would be appreciated.
So - a small win but i need to diagnose the real problem. Any advice from the forum much appreciated many thanks patrick
 

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ps here is another photo of the engine fuse box - excuse my ignorance - is this the same as the body control module? maybe thats the cause of the problem..perhaps not earthed or dirty etc?
 

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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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The BCM (body control module) is the internal fuse box which is below the glove box.
 

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The BCM (body control module) is the internal fuse box which is below the glove box.
Ah - thanks for that, this problem starts to make sense, as the passenger footwell was damp and when we took it in to the ford dealer, we head a clicking noise as like a bad earth - they didnt fix it i guess, thanks for that
 

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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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Ah - thanks for that, this problem starts to make sense, as the passenger footwell was damp and when we took it in to the ford dealer, we head a clicking noise as like a bad earth - they didnt fix it i guess, thanks for that
You need to check for corrosion on the BCM. The mk1 had a habit of letting water through in this area. The bulkhead will require proper sealing to stop any water ingress.
 

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Hi there
So I have checked the body control module - its all like new and there is no damp behind it. The sequence of events today was;
start - ok , full power , no warning lights but then after five minutes the engine malfunction sign came on together with red blinking light
i used my obd2 reader to find the code- UO140 lost communication with the BCM' - i cleared the code, tried to start - ok but now power still and orange engine light and 'transmission malfunction'. I did the erase again and also the trick of resetting the computer by pressing brake and throttle - all ok full power no warning lights
I then totally disconnected the BCM - pulled out the blue and orange connectors - left it five minutes
Reconnected. Car started but no power - ie rev it no revs...
Went through the obd2 procedure - cleared codes - which said loss of BCM and loss of instrument panel cluster -
then restarted - no power, repeated obd2 clearance of error codes - full power, no warning lights
So sorry about long post but it seems to me that the problem is all to do with the bcm, and maybe just its connections? i have checked all fuses, ok, no smell of damp, no corrosion
I think the BCM was replaced last year by the french ford dealer (i need to double check translations)
Any ideas most welcome!!!! best regards patrick
 

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ps the only other clue i can add to this - when i press the start button i can hear an audible click from the BCM in the passenger footwell
 

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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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One other problem with your car and many other fords of this era and earlier is a breakdown in the solder joints on the instrument cluster which can cause all sorts of problems. If you Google "ford instrument cluster fault" you will see what I mean.
 

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One other problem with your car and many other fords of this era and earlier is a breakdown in the solder joints on the instrument cluster which can cause all sorts of problems. If you Google "ford instrument cluster fault" you will see what I mean.
oh dear....! by the way, is there a service ford provide to talk to their electronic/tech guys? they must be getting loads of queries...
 
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