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@murcod @smartguy69 Thanks your advice. Today my mechanic will refit the new transfer box once it arrives. He has measured and has about 12 threads available on a 10 threaded bolt, so we are hoping that will help with extra support. I have been in touch with head of ford and all they can say is that because i took it away from a ford dealership for repairs they cannot help me. I have told them that is because i dont have £8500 pounds for the repairs they wanted to charge me, on a car that is only worth now £8500. So absolutely no luck there. I am going to have to pay in 2k for early termination with my finance company, if i held onto it for 8 months i could just hand it back, but the repayments over 8 months work out the same, im just worried i keep it and next its the gearbox, complete replacement. I just feel that if Ford know about this issue they should have warned all dealerships when servicing and MOT to check these bolts, it was clearly visible when taking the bottom tray! Will update you with how we get on. Any further suggestions are most welcome. I might have to replace the propshaft too, but we hoping that there is limited damage on that, i think ive sourced a second hand one for now incase, else thats another £800 from ford. I looking at Kia as a replacement, i see they also have AWD any advice?
 

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My dad was an engineer and had the philosophy that most things were never really broken. Some of that philosophy has been passed onto me with even my grandkids thinking I can fix most things. To be fair I can fix quite a bit and things I can't fix I probably know someone who can. I don't throw many things that are broken away.

Please don't be in a rush to blame ford for this. I am not sure who makes the transfer box but the gearbox is made by Getrag who I think are a German company. So much for German engineering. Looking at the thread size they look a bit on the small size. Are they M10. To me the positioning of the bolts are wrong and not equally spaced and no doubt there is quite some force going through that box when 4 wheel drive kicks in. Either that or vibration causing the bolts to come loose. Poor design.

I would get it back together and sell it and if you ever decide to buy another Kuga that's either out of warranty or only got a short warranty, then buy a 2 wheel drive manual and if you need 4 wheel drive then perhaps look elsewhere.
The Powershift 6DCT450 was a joint Ford/ Luk/ Continental and Getrag affair.

From what I've seen Luk made the cutch plates, Continental made the Mechatronic unit (electronics and valve body) Getrag made the geabox in conjunction with Ford.

There is a Getrag Ford Transmission plant in the UK.
 

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The Powershift 6DCT450 was a joint Ford/ Luk/ Continental and Getrag affair.

From what I've seen Luk made the cutch plates, Continental made the Mechatronic unit (electronics and valve body) Getrag made the geabox in conjunction with Ford.

There is a Getrag Ford Transmission plant in the UK.
Thanks for the update. Looks like ford is to blame after all if they put their name to it.

When I read your " short story" of your gearbox swap did you say the old system didn't have a dual mass flywheel but the new one does.
 

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Thanks for the update. Looks like ford is to blame after all if they put their name to it.

When I read your " short story" of your gearbox swap did you say the old system didn't have a dual mass flywheel but the new one does.
Yep pre 2017 gearbox has the stupidly designed internal clutch damper with the plastic guides that get minced up and cause havoc.

The 2017 onward has a "normal" dual mass flywheel bolted to the engine to decouple/ damp the torque input to the gearbox (no plastic guides, no damper springs either).
 

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I was just thinking the dual mass flywheel was introduced on the diesel engine to reduce vibration. My Mazda 6 manual had a DMF.

So is that the same as the manual gearbox I wonder with no DMF or just for the auto up to 2017. Could be why the bolts come loose on the transfer box.
 

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The manual DMF is different an has been fitted from 2008 on (same engines as the first gen Powershift).

I believe the flywheel in my picture and the gearbox redesign was due to the pitiful failure rate of the cluch assembly on the first gen Powershift gearboxes.

My 2013 PTU bolts were good and tight when I removed them for the gearbox swap at 65,000 miles.
 

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So update: My mechanic has managed to get the car running. He used a liquid metal to build up the sheared bolts on the gear box. Driving seems perfect, im just so worried this car goes again. I have attached a picture of the build up. He said it was a real ball ache to get all the bolts into place. My options are as follows, take a 2k knock and trade the car in or keep it for another 8 months. Im just so worried that next time its the whole gearbox.... any thoughts.
3468
 

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They are a swine to fit!.

Looks a nice neat job there.

Maybe drive it a couple of weeks and get him to re-check the bolts?.

As for PX'ing or not only you can make that decision really, hopefully now they are all tight you shouldn't have any more issues.
 

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Looks like your mechanic has done a good job but I don't have any experience of using liquid metal so not sure of it's durability. My brother in law used some years ago with good results. However, I would be questioning why the bolts had come loose in the first place. Not tightened correctly, lack of lock shield or perhaps vibration or maybe lots of abuse by a previous owner. So long as the bolts hold it should be fine but seeing as it's a powershift I would be cutting my losses and getting shut.
 

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If it was me, I'd be trading it at a dealer ASAP while it's still working. Get one of the later models (2017 on, like @keithmac described with the new gearbox) if you want a diesel again.
I wouldn't not even bother buying onwards of 2017
I have Ford Escape 6/2017 AWD diesel
Bearings failed in PTU rh drive shaft at 10,000kms Ford replaced Bearings failed again at 22,000kms Ford replaced. I reported left front drive shaft noise at 90,000kms Ford said no problems found, no noise heard. 95,000kms I took it back to Ford reporting same front left drive shaft noise becoming louder & more consistent. Again Ford tell me no problem found no noise heard. At 102,000kms I take it back they finally put it up on the hoist 1 mechanic drives it in gear while other mechanic listens underneath & hears noises coming from PTU (transfer case) they drain the oil & it's metallic silver. Ford replace PTU a week later I pick the car up after ford had it for the day only to hear the exact noise that I'd been complaining about after driving 2 kms up the road. I take it back & checked my Dashcam showing they'd never taking it for a test drive after they'd repaired it. So a week later they changed the left front drive shaft during the repair they'd realised the bearings were damaged as well. Luckily enough in the 2 weeks that it took them to finally fix the car I was given a brand new 2 litre twin turbo Ford Ranger to borrow for the 2 weeks they had my car. I would have been happy to have the brand new ranger it has a lot of balls for a big car with a small motor the 10 speed auto was also very impressive.
As for my car Ford escape formly known as the Kuga I don't think much has changed regarding AWD transfer case problems.
 

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Wow, that's one lemon you scored there. :(

I take it back & checked my Dashcam showing they'd never taking it for a test drive after they'd repaired it.
My dealer started unplugging the dash cam after I sprung them doing dubious work during a servicing. Perhaps your dealer does the same?
 

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When I had my previous Disco Sport the JLR dealer would not carry out any work, either warranty or service unless the dash cams were removed when it was booked in. Dodgy !!
 

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When I had my previous Disco Sport the JLR dealer would not carry out any work, either warranty or service unless the dash cams were removed when it was booked in. Dodgy !!
Yes that's dodgy. If they are working on your car the bonnet is up anyway so he must of been up to no good for him wanting the camera turned off. 😂
 

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Yes that's dodgy. If they are working on your car the bonnet is up anyway so he must of been up to no good for him wanting the camera turned off. 😂
My camera can see under the bonnet's rear edge when the bonnet is up. So I have a decent view of the engine bay. I caught them overfilling the engine oil with who knows what oil (out of a plastic jug) when I'd supplied enough of my own oil.

I took it back to have some other stuff ups fixed and when I got it back that time the dash cam was unplugged. I went off at them for unplugging it and not plugging it back in when they were finished.

I'm tempted to hide a camera in the engine bay next service. :mad:
 

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Hi all i have a mate that i grew up with known him 60 plus years. He has a garage employ's 3 fitter's has done all the work on my car's as long as i can remember, they always unplug dash cam i don't know why but will ask him next time i call in for a chat. Probably some sort of privacy thing.
 

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When I asked at the JLR dealership why my camera needed removing they said it is standard practise across all dealerships. JLR control their dealers and have much more input than Ford and apparently it is their instruction. I was advised that it was mainly so that when any faults needed locating or diagnostic equipment used it was not affected by any add ons, they also said any other non standard add ons needed disconnecting. Perhaps more understandable as always had loads of software updates carried out.
 
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