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Discussion Starter #1
After pulling away quickly I heard a nasty crunch and now a a nasty rattle. My local garage put up on a ramp and found the transfer box was cracked and twisted out of alignment, this has happened after 2 of the bottom fixing bolts were missing and as it was very dirty had not been in for a long time.

I am just hoping the damage is limited to the transfer box and not damaged the gear box other than a fixing it has sheared off.

So my questions are- I am having problem working out the part number, they all seem to be EJ5P-7L486- then followed by either JE,JC,HC or JG, my Kuga is a 2015 2l diesel auto 180bhp - I cannot find anywhere to look up the part number or find out what the variations are, I believe mine may be the JG but there are not many about.

Second question is how long does it take to change a transfer box?

Thanks from an up to now pleased Kuga owner
 

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Any pictures?

I suspect the following, and will be checking mine (also others to check theirs)

The engine & gearbox mounts are getting tired allowing the engine & gearbox to rock under high torque.

The rear prop shaft is held in place by pillar bearings bolted to the transmission tunnel (I would check them as well)

This must put pressure on the PTU (transfer box) especially the bottom bolts.

I did a bit of work for JLR regarding fitting the PTU for Evoque and the last Freelander models.

The Kuga is similar: AWD, a PTU is bolted to gearbox to send drive to rear, FWD a bearing hub is used in lieu of PTU and a longer NS driveshaft used.

So (not done it), NS shaft out, so suspension leg off, rear prop shaft off, and unbolt & un plug. Was that in reverse at the JLR factory.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
It was the bottom 2 bolts missing, the car is 4 years old with 50k, not sure if bolts had been left out from a previous repair or never been fitted as we have not had from new. On facebook I found another person with the same problem, so maybe and I have not read about the Australian, a few have been missed on assembly.
 

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I think there's 5 bolts that hold it on, the bottom two missing would significantly affect it.

On our Powershift the Gearbox adds a fair bit of support to the transfer box casing so no wonder its cracked.

On member on here had been through two or three Transfer boxes iirc, never got the the bottom of why the failed.

There's not a lot of oil either, a leak would see one off very quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Anyone know how difficult to change, is it a diy job? if not how long should it take a garage
 

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Anyone know how difficult to change, is it a diy job? if not how long should it take a garage
You have to remove the subframe/ steering rack assy.

I did it on the drive (to replace our Powershift) but its a bit of a ball ache to be honest.
 

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Kudos to @keithmac for all the DIY work he's done. I'll tackle most stuff on my Kuga but I'd draw the line at trying to DIY a transfer case swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the pictures, think it looks a bit beyond me. I am still trying to establish the correct part number, so will get jacked up and take panel off to look for the sticker
 

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After pulling away quickly I heard a nasty crunch and now a a nasty rattle. My local garage put up on a ramp and found the transfer box was cracked and twisted out of alignment, this has happened after 2 of the bottom fixing bolts were missing and as it was very dirty had not been in for a long time.

I am just hoping the damage is limited to the transfer box and not damaged the gear box other than a fixing it has sheared off.

So my questions are- I am having problem working out the part number, they all seem to be EJ5P-7L486- then followed by either JE,JC,HC or JG, my Kuga is a 2015 2l diesel auto 180bhp - I cannot find anywhere to look up the part number or find out what the variations are, I believe mine may be the JG but there are not many about.

Second question is how long does it take to change a transfer box?

Thanks from an up to now pleased Kuga owner
Hi

Can you please let me know how this turned out as i have the exact same thing just happen to me?
Could i possibly contact you?
 

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The exact thing has happen to my 2015 Ford Kuga Mk2 automatic 2l diesel. Last sunday whilst driving it started making a horrendous noise, took it too ford who then told me that it was missing 3 bolts, one of the holdings on the gearbox had snapped off and the transfer box is cracked, they wanted to charge me for a new transfer box, new gear box, new propshaft at a cost of 8k. I took it away from them to my local mechanic who is now replacing the transfer box, when he took the transfer box out he found another holding on the gearbox had sheared off. I am just hoping that replacing the transfer box and rebolding onto the 3 remaining shafts on the gearbox will hold this together. Has anyone had any success with this. To me this is a Ford issue that we seem to be paying for?
 

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You can see the 5 mountings on my gearbox (the red cap is over the AWD and O/S driveshaft coupling).

No way will 3 bolts hold that securely especially of the IAWD decides on a 50/50 torque split.

Ford were right on this, new gearbox or have the mounts welded back on.

Even 5 is marginal, they couldn't put any round the front due to space reasons.

You'll be buying another transfew box if you leave only 3 mountings in imho..

20190519_144548.jpg
 

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Thanks for your reply. I have attached a picture of the threads on the gearbox that are damaged. Is there anyway torepair these without replacing the gearbox, literally cannot afford it. Any solutions, i have ordered a new transfer box so that side will be okay, its just to try and secure it to those 2 damaged casings?
gearbox.jpg
 

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You may get away with tapping the thread further down the holes and using longer bolts (studs would be better if you can still get the transfer box on after).

I know it was a pain to fit the gearbox with the transfer box still in situ.

Ask your mechanic if he can have a go at salvaging the holes, 3 bolts is not enough unfortunately.
 

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There are companies who specialise in cast welding. It could be possible to weld up the missing casing and then have them drilled and re-tapped.

There would appear to be a serious problem with the design of this if it is common for these bolts to come loose, yet the same has brake caliper bolts that are held so tight you think you are going to strip them undoing them.

@keithmac. If my next Kuga is AWD is it easy to spot if all bolts are in place or is it a case of having the car up on a ramp to spot. Also if this is a known problem then wouldn't the mechanics give the bolts a once over at service, providing it's serviced at a ford garage.

Also the pic you posted and the one BBean posted look different. He has 2 extra tapped holes on his casing. If these are not needed then perhaps a bracket could be made with a tapped hole to go over the one that is damaged. At least then it will have the two bolts secure at the bottom which will be better than just one.
 

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You need to lay under it with the under tray off, the top 3 are tricky to get to but you could visually see if they were still there (down the side of the exhaust manifold).

They did away with the two extra holes on the later gearbox.

The Transfer Box (PTU) bolts to the engine block as well so if you made a plate sandwiched between the PTU and the gearbox you'd have to spacer the gearbox out against the block the same amount.

If you can get 25mm depth of good thread in there with some decent studs threadlocked in then it would be a reasonable compromise.

I think Alloy welder would wand the gearbox removed from the car which is a job all of its own.
 

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@smartguy69 @keithmac I honestly believe this is a Ford issue, we shouldnt be paying for this kind of damage on car, my Ford dealership who actually did all the servicing and MOT's told me they do not inspect this during a service???
We are going to try a threaded bolt and then connect fasten it with nut from the otherside. I am never ever going to touch a ford again once i get rid of this.
 

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My dad was an engineer and had the philosophy that most things were never really broken. Some of that philosophy has been passed onto me with even my grandkids thinking I can fix most things. To be fair I can fix quite a bit and things I can't fix I probably know someone who can. I don't throw many things that are broken away.

Please don't be in a rush to blame ford for this. I am not sure who makes the transfer box but the gearbox is made by Getrag who I think are a German company. So much for German engineering. Looking at the thread size they look a bit on the small size. Are they M10. To me the positioning of the bolts are wrong and not equally spaced and no doubt there is quite some force going through that box when 4 wheel drive kicks in. Either that or vibration causing the bolts to come loose. Poor design.

I would get it back together and sell it and if you ever decide to buy another Kuga that's either out of warranty or only got a short warranty, then buy a 2 wheel drive manual and if you need 4 wheel drive then perhaps look elsewhere.
 

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no doubt there is quite some force going through that box when 4 wheel drive kicks in. Either that or vibration causing the bolts to come loose. Poor design.
It seems to only be happening on the diesel models so far (more torque and rougher running engine?)

Those threaded holes that have snapped the housing look like the bolts were fully seated/ done up until the housing broke? Perhaps the other bolts were the ones that came loose and those were the only bolts tight- hence why the housing snapped?

I honestly believe this is a Ford issue, we shouldnt be paying for this kind of damage on car, my Ford dealership who actually did all the servicing and MOT's told me they do not inspect this during a service???
There's a guy in Australia fighting Ford to repair his Kuga. He's not having much success so far. Supposedly there's a Ford TSB about it, but someone needs to get a copy of it.
 
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