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Discussion Starter #22
I think I did it...!


I choose a camera of this type for personal reasons.
Any type of camera though,must be considered as having the exact same procedure for its cables to be routed.
I also opened the right plate light to help the guidance of my cables in the beginning of their journey (to unknown at this stage...!!!)



Here is the direction I routed my cables by the help of a flexible wire.At this stage I didn't know exactly from where I should run my cables,therefore I neglected the fact that the wiper motor area it would be much easier to reach directly.I didn't even noticed the grommet between the two areas (the one the wiper cables pass through). For any future installation and if this way is preferred over Tony's way,it's strongly recommended the camera cables share the same grommet with the wiper cables entering the wiper motor compartment.

The camera cables are exiting into the wiper motor compartment (in the hard way
)
The second hole was intended to be used for the cables to enter again to the door's inside,pass through the same grommet the heating element cable pass,and finally find a way beneath the plastic liner aside with the heating element cable.However it was impossible not only to blindly guide a flexible wire through the grommet but furthermore to turn it immediately after exiting on the other side.A whole day was spent trying to find ways to turn the wire behind the grommet to no avail.Avery time my flexible wire continued straight ahead to the distant and unknown parts of the door's insides!!

The cables inserted beneath the plastic liner by the use of a small opening I drilled (VERY CAREFULLY...
the glass is immediately behind this point).
A camera cable is approx.3mm thick,so it's a necessity for such an opening to be drilled otherwise the cables will be someday cut by the tense of the plastic liner towards the glass.


Cables already to heating element connector area.A an 8mm hole is drilled on the door's metal sub frame.Inside that frame is the actual (original) passage of the camera cables,so I used the same to reach the final exit point to the grommet joining the 2 doors.
The round small rubber grommet seeing here is added to prevent the cables from being destroyed over time and to make things look a little more professional...!!


The cables finally ending their wanderings inside the door's unknown and secret areas and find their way out of the upper tailgate.I admit I still hardly believe it was finally doable!I see this picture over and over again to realize it's not some kind of weird dream of mine...!!!(Not that I didn't have such...!!!!)

The result:

With everything attached from a distant point of view

and seeing even more closely in this one!

and from the outside...even more barely visible!

and finally from another outside angle.


That's it!
I hope my method will help the future reverse camera installer.It's certain now I could choose more easy ways to do it or even choose Tony's method.One way or the other, the most clearly certain from now on will be the fact that a neat installation of a reverse camera on a Kuga it's not an impossible job any more!

Cheers
Nick.

P.S.
...I apologize for my dirty Kuga!!!It was shining bright couple of days ago, till that bloody rain full of Sahara sand decided to add to my lovely Vision color a touch of Desert Sand beige look!!!
 

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Great pics Nick - It's good to explain through different ways you candoinstalls
 

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Hi Nick,Well done with the pictures - nice job done there.
Let us know when you get it all connected up and working - I'm also intrigued about your choice ofcamera


Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Thanks guys,

HK, we keep our brains working by figuring out different ways of doing things
!

Tony, I choose this camera type for several reasons. First of all it's a matter of personal taste. I don't like the integrated with plate light camera that much.The led illumination of such cameras produce considerably more lighting compared with the original plate lamps.Besides,the one I choose is quite tiny and discreet and fits perfectly in (original) place.It's not even noticeable when upper tailgate is closed!Apart from this (and because of it) it's finally the only camera type I could use because my registration plate plastic base is located high enough.Should (even at the slightest) a larger type of camera be used it would hit with my plate's plastic base.
I'll take a pic with the tailgate closed today to show you what I mean.

I surely let you all know when and the rest of the routing is successfully done!
Besides, I have another modification on the way waiting in line, concerning my USB installation and the solving of Voice Control issues I have (at last), following my Sony DAB MP3 CD player to Blaupunkt NX 7" Sat Nav system upgrade.
My parts finally arrived and I hardly can wait to install them!

Cheers
Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I proudly announce that the reverse camera is all connected up and working great!


I only had to add a 50cm extension to the video cable because the one provided, although 5 meters long was not enough to reach where it should the way it was routed at the back of the dashboard.

It seems that a full 6 meters long video cable is finally needed to run all the way from the camera through the upper tailgate to the main tailgate through the grommets and guided by the cills to the back of the dashboard.

I would be glad to offer every additional help derived from the knowledge I earned throughout the procedure, to anyone intending to accomplish this modification.

Cheers
Nick
 

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We both found different ways of installing an aftermarket camera and connecting it to different head units. The head unit I chosewas a Kenwood DNX7260bt - completeentertainment centre with sat nav (garmin), bluetooth with hands free, usb and ipod control.
I believe Nicks wasa latestFord NX navigation centre with bt and handsfree etc.

Both items do the job well enough and the reverse camera facilityis so useful !
The reason I chose Kenwood was the fact I could easy update the sat navs maps and poi's and speed camerasfor just a few pounds !

There's lots of good head units out there available to install into the kuga, but like many others have said here - its probably best to stick tothe famousbrand names rather than some dubious chinese impoted devices !



My Kenwood DNX7260BT

 

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Discussion Starter #29
Hey Tony,
Your unit looks fabulous in your Kuga mate
!
During the next couple of days or so I'll post pictures of my NX Sat Nav too,you're right about my unit,this is exactly what I have.

I definitely agree with your point about the many dubious Chinese devices
.A friend of mine payed almost 500 Euros for one of these plus installation costs and it's absolutely awful!Worst of all,it often produces an awful ultra high pitched sound on speakers probably due to incompatibility issues with his car electronic systems.Not to mention its ridiculous and almost childish graphics and jingles for my taste.

Both ways doing the reverse camera installation are obviously the only ones available and require the most minimal "damage" (if any) possible.Definitely a very usefull guide for anyone considering to have an (almost) original reverse camera installation on his/her Kuga!

Cheers
Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #30
As promised,here are the evidence of a successful modification




A very tiny and discreet solution.
And here the delivered video picture on my NX screen when in reverse:


Cheers

Nick
 

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Hi,

Being a newbie to the forum and having just recently bought a new kuga, I would just like to say I followed your post and after 4 1/2 hours of **** have finally managed to install my reversing camera with no visible sign of any cables. Without your instructions of drilling that hole in the the upper boot lid, the install would have been impossible. It was hard enough finding a way through with the hole, but after all that it is a nice neat job.
Just like to say thanks for the valuable information.

Cheers

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Hi Mike,

welcome to the Forum!
I'm glad you found our thread useful and you got yourself a solution thanks to the described ways of doing such a difficult job which you described so correctly as "****",that's exactly what it is literally!

Wishing you a useful and pleasant stay here with us and also congratulations for your successful reverse camera installation!


Cheers

Nick
 

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Hi Nick,

Thanks for the welcome note. Forums like this are great for sharing valuable information and experience from different members, keep up the good work.

Cheers

Mike
 

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HiMike and welcome.I'm glad you managed to fit the camera and cables ok. Feeding the wire through that boot lid is a nightmare I know, but the end results are well worth it - well done !

Tony
 

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To all that provided info on this post,

Although the last reply was 30 May 2012, surely there are other Forum members that have installed a reversing camera since. Maybe not. Anyway, I just attempted to pass/push a pull wire through the various small holes in the upper tailgate in order to install cables for a reversing camera and failed miserably.

Moral of the story....wish I'd searched the forum first!!!!

Will have another go but will have to drill some holes, thanks to fly4ever an TigerTony for showing where.

#notgivingup


Cheers,

Andy T
 

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UOTE=TigerTony]

Hi Nick,Well done in fittingyour cables.

I managed to fit my cables similar to you on the right hand side of tailgate and thenfollowing the washer pipe through both rubber grommets into vehicle.
I eventually drilled a small access hole (20mm)in the lower right part of the internal plastic trim to enable the easy fitting of my cable .
After installation the hole is covered by a small flush mounted plastic stop. It blends in with original trim texture and colour.
There are no cables to be seen at all.
Heres a few pictures during installation.



The blue cable is just a draw cable I fed through first, this was used to pull the small video cable through after. I used the right side number plate light just as an access hole and actually fitted the camera to the left side number platelight
------------------


Above picture shows the small plastic stop fitted to the previously drilled access hole
------------------

Heres the hole drilling dimensions.
A= 87mm
B= 73m
C= 38mm
Hole was 20mm diameter and the plastic stop was a standardindustrial electrical grommet available from any electrical wholesalers.
After drilling the hole I used a stiff wire to feed my draw cabletowards the upper grommet in the tailgate as there is still lots of honeycomb plastic sections to navigate inside the tailgate. But at least I had a straight run - took a few attempts but was worth it.

I used a phono plug and socket connector just inside the tailgate hinge area so if the tailgate ever neede to be removed the cable wouldnt have to be cut.

Tony
[/QUOTE]


Hi TigerTony,

I know this is an old post but I'm hoping you're still on the forum and can assist.

1) How did you route the blue pull cable from the 20mm dia. drilled hole to the R/H number plate light? Is there a clear route through?
I tried using the small hole just to the left of your drilled hole and found the route blocked, although I did manage to get the pull cable down to the rear screen heating element on the right hand side after removing the square cover.

2) Having drilled the 20mm hole, did you then find it was possible to get the pull cable down to the opening for the washer tube ok.
I tried passing a pull cable through the rear screen element opening down to the upper grommet hole and again found the route blocked.

Any further help would be appreciated.

Andy T
 

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Hi Andy some years ago I fitted a reversing camera following a post by Dozers Dad. It was a pig of a job!

I drilled the 20 mm hole using the above measurements, I used a blind 20mm electrical grommet to seal the hole. I took the ground -ve from the heated rear screen which access through the plastic cover on the drivers side. As the cable was black I was able to tuck it into the trim.

One word of warning be careful if you use a pressure washer as the camera whilst being waterproof is not pressure washer proof!
I know this from bitter experience having had the car valeted.

HTH

Peter C
 

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peter c said:
Hi Andy some years ago I fitted a reversing camera following a post by Dozers Dad. It was a pig of a job!

I drilled the 20 mm hole using the above measurements, I used a blind 20mm electrical grommet to seal the hole. I took the ground -ve from the heated rear screen which access through the plastic cover on the drivers side. As the cable was black I was able to tuck it into the trim.

One word of warning be careful if you use a pressure washer as the camera whilst being waterproof is not pressure washer proof!
I know this from bitter experience having had the car valeted.

HTH

Peter C
Hi Peter,

Thanks for the info, particularly the pressure washer warning.

So today I managed the run the RCA video cable from the upper hatch rubber boot (feed for the washer tube) to just below the headlight switch, and run a cable from the R/H reversing light to to same upper hatch rubber boot. Currently waiting on delivery of a 1.5m RCA Video male to female extension cable which I intend to run in the upper hatch from the camera to the connector by the upper hatch boot.

Then I drilled the 20mm hole as per TigerTony's instructions but could I get a pull wire through to the number plate light aperture or the upper hatch rubber boot aperture....no. Didn't matter what angle of dangle I tried but any attempt appeared to be blocked. Damned frustrating I can tell you.

So, Peter, can I ask what implement did you use to get a pull cable ran in as in the photo below.

Thanks,

Andy
 

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Hi Andy

Firstly I did this in 2012 so my memory is a bit hazy!

Secondly as I did not want to replace the head unit I fixed a 7" monitor to the rear wiper cover.


I seem to remember using a flexible wire that isused to hold up net curtains, drilling a few holes and eventually cutting a couple of small holes using a multi tool. Be careful as the plastic "honeycomb" gives strength and rigidity to the upper lid!

I fitted the camera to the passenger side number plate fitting. Rather than cut the number plate light wire I made a plug to fit in the bulb holder. That way if ever I have to take out the camera I still can fit the number plate light.

I soldered all of the wiring connections, insulating them with either heat shrink or professional grade self amalgam tape,rather than using quick fit blocks.

As I said before it is a pig of a job and must have taken me all day.

Peter C
 

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peter c said:
Hi Andy

Firstly I did this in 2012 so my memory is a bit hazy!

Secondly as I did not want to replace the head unit I fixed a 7" monitor to the rear wiper cover.


I seem to remember using a flexible wire that isused to hold up net curtains, drilling a few holes and eventually cutting a couple of small holes using a multi tool. Be careful as the plastic "honeycomb" gives strength and rigidity to the upper lid!

I fitted the camera to the passenger side number plate fitting. Rather than cut the number plate light wire I made a plug to fit in the bulb holder. That way if ever I have to take out the camera I still can fit the number plate light.

I soldered all of the wiring connections, insulating them with either heat shrink or professional grade self amalgam tape,rather than using quick fit blocks.

As I said before it is a pig of a job and must have taken me all day.

Peter C

Hi Peter,

Thanks for the info. From what you said I reckon I've got to drill a few more carefully positioned holes. Don't suppose you still have the car to take some pictures of where you drilled the holes.
And purchase some net curtain wire. That seem to be a good recommendation.

So far I've tried using a rod from an electricians cable rod kit, but that won't pass through, too rigid, and some military grade locking wire having twisted 4 lengths together. That seems to have worked putting some cable through but it's the upper hatch lid that is proving to be the b*tch!!

Ditto on the head unit. I looked into replacing it but for £300 I would've lost the radio control functions from the steering column stalk, and no doubt had issues getting it fitted. And £300 as well, if I can get the wiring into the upper hatch I'd have put in a reversing camera and a 5" TFT/LCD screen (mounting at the bottom of the A pillar) for less than £50 and kept the original working radio/cd system. A no brainer in my book.

Having another go shortly.

Cheers,

Andy
 
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