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My 2010 Kuga has 31500 miles at this point.

You will require a minimum of these, a good 1/4" socket set, long nosed pliers, 8mm hex, pick tool set, adjustable spanner/mole grips, 1.5m clear 6/8mm tubing with funnel attached, container (one of your mothers pans in my case), a jug, cloths.

Get the arse end well up in the air and get some axle stands under each side for saftey.



I used Volo parts as they were cheaper than getting them from Ford, £48 all inc.




Once you're under the car remove the round pump (lowest part in pic), it has two small hex bolts (do not remove the even smaller star bolts next to them as they allow the pump itself to be dismantled) and gently wiggle and pull the pump off. Make sure you have your container ready to catch the oil that will drain out.






Then remove the Haldex control unit, just two hex bolts and the two electrical connections.




The reason the Haldex control unit needs to come off is to gain better access to the filter. It's located at the very top of the entire unit above the prop shaft input. You can access it with a good 1/4' socket set with extensions and a universal joint. Undo the two hex bolts and remove the cover.

The filter seal will inevitably be left behind in the casing. Use long nosed pliers to withdraw it. If the plastic snaps off (mine did) use some 'pick tools' and push them into the plastic until you can get a hold and draw it out. This is tricky but with patience it can be done.

At this point, I'd put the new filter into place (it will click in when fully home) and put the new sealing cover on.

Put the Haldex unit back on.

The pump will have a gauze covering the flow/return channels and as you can see mine was about half way clogged up. I believe this is when trouble starts on the unit when left to fully block.




All clean.




Old and new filters, they are the same size.




Old oil.




New oil.




Refilling. There are two hex filler bolts on the entire unit (both nearside). The most rear and easiest to access is for the differential, ignore this one. The Haldex filler is positioned higher right near the exhaust mount bracket and difficult to access. I had to remove the 8mm hex part from the 3/8" socket part and use an adjustable spanner on it to crack it open.

I then used about 150cm of clear 6/8mm tubing attached to a funnel that I located in the rear passenger door handle (perfect really) and let gravity do the rest as I watched underneath. Once it spews out, you're full.
 

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Very informative


My 61 plate Kuga with 28,000 miles on failed, had this procedure carried out by Ford under warranty. Defiantly worth doing around the 30,000 mile / 3rd service interval.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Found some interesting information on the unit. It appears all the issues start from the pump filter clogging up. Having seen mine at only 31.5k miles proves it requires servicing I'd say at 20k intervals.

1. Haldex is fairly hard to kill.<br style="color: rgb51, 51, 51; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px; line-height: normal;">2. Most of the time it's either the pump or the circuit board that fails.<br style="color: rgb51, 51, 51; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px; line-height: normal;">3. Pump fails most often due to clogged filter.<br style="color: rgb51, 51, 51; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px; line-height: normal;">4. The computer picks up on the fact that oil pressure is low, signals the pump to put more effort into it, pump attempts to comply and overheats.<br style="color: rgb51, 51, 51; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px; line-height: normal;">5. In some cases while pump is drawing all this current in at attemp to comply, the logic board fails due to excessive current flow.<br style="color: rgb51, 51, 51; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px; line-height: normal;">6. They had some electronics gurus workout the absolute maximum that the unit can draw is about 3.5A. Yet the fuse (refer to your manual) is rated 15A.<br style="color: rgb51, 51, 51; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px; line-height: normal;">7. So, a good test to see if problems are around the corner would be to swap the 15A fuse for a 5A. I did that today. To see if the unit is working within acceptable range. They recon that even in winter, with extra work, haldex doesn't need more than 3.5A.<br style="color: rgb51, 51, 51; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px; line-height: normal;">8. To replace a pump is cheaper than to replace the circuit/logic board. Fuse is even cheaper.<br style="color: rgb51, 51, 51; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13px; line-height: normal;">9. On volvos they tried 7.5A fuses but that didn't save the circuit board.




Edited by: tackit
 

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Thanks guys, this is a really good thread. Had my oil changed last year. In my book it states its a 7.5 amp fuse but will change it to 5 asap.Edited by: essexeddie
 

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Changed oil and filter today. Thanks for the very complete and clear info.First undid the filling plug as i like to know that it will come off, i don't know why it was so tight, but took a **** effort to undo.
The filter is in the most awkward place and to get the plastic bit out to me a lot of effort.
The gauze on the pump looked similar contaminated, car done 43.000 miles.
Oil didn't look to dark, what made me think to change the oil and clean the gauze in another 15K and the filter at 30k.
Definitely worth to do, if it's only for your piece of mind.

Thanks a lot for the proper explanation.
 

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Rates Ford in Grays are charging £155 all in for oil & filter change on Kuga rear diff which is quite palatable cost wise.

Got mine all booked in.

Tim Hey workshop controller is the guy to speak with: [email protected]
 

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Do you mean the Haldex unit or rear diff oil replacement? and make sure they do as the oils are different and the Haldex will destroy itself if diff oil is put into it.
 

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Yeah well Eddie, i know and you know but this mistake has been made by Different Marque's of main dealers numerous times in the past when servicing the Haldex , you are correct in that there is no filter on the rear diff, but they still managed to fill the Haldex with oil spec'd for the diff. this has happened !
 

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Great guide. I've got a gen 4 haldex on my kuga as well and will be doing this once i've ordered the parts. The reason for doing this is that for a couple of weeks now i've been getting a AWD Malfunction light. Can I use Haldex 1 litre coupling oil instead of this or does it have to be this Volvo transmission oil. The other thing is i've noticed you didn't need to remove the shaft flange which is great as I was dreading this.
 

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Does anyone know is there different type of drive shaft's in Kuga? I have 2010 2,0tdci with Haldex IV.

In above instructions I can see that the drive shaft flange is different kind and smaller compared to mine. In my Kuga the drive shaft goes inside the flange ring that is coming from Haldex unit.

I can't get the oil pump out because there is not enough space due to large diameter of the flange. Also the replacement of the oil filter is nightmare. It seems that the drive shaft has bearing balls inside the flange, similar as Transporter AWD. Is this possible and does anyone know how to dismantle this kind of drive shaft?
 

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I'm not sure about fluids for my 07/2009 Kuga
I have got Haldex 4 (filter in the top)

In this topic I see Volvo numbers:
Haldex: 31367940
Rear differential: 1161620

Can someone's confirm this numbers?
ThanksEdited by: MaoVi
 

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The Volvo Haldex fluid is 31367940. Comes in a 1L bottle, which is plenty.
The filter is 31325173. Both are Volvo parts, as Mr Ford doesn't think they need replacing. Mr Ford is an idiot.


If, like me, you need a new pump [due to non-replacement of the above for 50,000 miles, it's 9V4N4C019AA.

All are available from www.haldexparts.com
 

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tackit said:
Image for reference. How you can possibly fill then drop 5mm is anyone's guess!

24ml = 1mm. Fill it to the brim, then suck out 120ml of fluid and voila, it is 5mm below the rim. Simples.
 

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Thanks very much for answers :)
I got for hadex IV oil: 31367940, filter: 31325173.

I have got also oil for rear differential: 1161620.
I want to replace it, but I can't find drain plug...
Am I need to suck and refill it by the level check hole?
 
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