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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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You can't pay too much attention on the U codes unless you have a fault with that particular module.. The main one is the B1318 code where it's saying low battery voltage. I see from one of your other posts that your battery is 12.6 volts and it's charging ok.

First thing is clear the codes and see what comes back.

In the DTC section in Forscan select the SECOND yellow triangle and reset the DTC. Then hit the first yellow triangle and see what comes back.

It could be something simple like a bad connection on the electrical connector on the ABS module and it's not getting a decent voltage through it. Your car is known for electrical issues in two areas. One is water coming in above the fusebox. If your carpets are damp then that's a sign. The other is the CANBUS systems terminate at the instrument cluster which have been known to fail due to the soldered joints on the main board breaking down. You can get a sign that's happening by instruments not working or not being able to start the car.

Have you got any warning lights on.
 
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2010 Kuga 2.0 Cdti (163bhp)
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok so problems with the car is engine malfunction light is present and so is the power steering malfunction light and there is no power steering
You can't pay too much attention on the U codes unless you have a fault with that particular module.. The main one is the B1318 code where it's saying low battery voltage. I see from one of your other posts that your battery is 12.6 volts and it's charging ok.

First thing is clear the codes and see what comes back.

In the DTC section in Forscan select the SECOND yellow triangle and reset the DTC. Then hit the first yellow triangle and see what comes back.

It could be something simple like a bad connection on the electrical connector on the ABS module and it's not getting a decent voltage through it. Your car is known for electrical issues in two areas. One is water coming in above the fusebox. If your carpets are damp then that's a sign. The other is the CANBUS systems terminate at the instrument cluster which have been known to fail due to the soldered joints on the main board breaking down. You can get a sign that's happening by instruments not working or not being able to start the car.

Have you got any warning lights on.
Ok that sounds interesting because the car is displaying engine malfunction light, and also it's coming up power steering malfunction, there is currently no power steering which makes it near impossible to drive, but what's interesting is that the car sometimes struggles to start off the button, it starts then cuts out straight away

The bloke I bought the car off said that it only happeneds in cold weather and he thinks its glow plugs, the other night I tried to start it about 10 times and every time would cut straight out, the next day I tried it and it started first time, is this a symptom?? Thankd for your time
 

Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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If you have got engine malfunction lights on then the U codes will then have some meaning.

If this was my car the first thing I would do is check is that all terminals are clean, without corrosion or water ingress starting at the battery. Follow each lead and pull each multi pin connector for corrosion and water ingress on the modules you have issues with. DO NOT disconnect modules with the battery connected. All earth leads should be free from corrosion and tight. Your starter motor earth's through the mounting bolts. These need to be free of rust.

You could do all that and still end up back at the instrument cluster.

Check for corrosion in the fuse box.
 

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2010 Kuga 2.0 Cdti (163bhp)
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It looks like someone has cleaned up all the earth points and also added a new which obvs had this problem before and tried to cure 馃檲 il have a good look at them tomorrow
 

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2016 Kuga Titanium 2.0l EcoBoost
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A low battery voltage could cause all sorts of false codes to be generated. Fix that one first if it reappears after resetting the stored DTC's.

The Mk1 has hydraulic power steering- or is it electric like the Mk2?
 

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Glow plugs are easy to rule out. It doesn't have any :D.
Is the 2.0 TDCi in the mk1 kuga a different engine to the ones fitted in the mk4 mondeo, galaxy and S-max? I know the focus mk2 used a different 2.0 tdci to the mondeo but didn't know the kuga mk1 did.
My mondeo definitely has glow plugs.
 

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Is the 2.0 TDCi in the mk1 kuga a different engine to the ones fitted in the mk4 mondeo, galaxy and S-max? I know the focus mk2 used a different 2.0 tdci to the mondeo but didn't know the kuga mk1 did.
My mondeo definitely has glow plugs.
The early mk4 Mondeos use the same engine as in the Mk1 Kuga and Mk2 Focus, no idea about the later ones. I'm guessing your Mondeo is a later mk4 (after 2010)?
 

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Kuga mk1 2012 tdci
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The first diesel mk1 kugas (2008..10) had ukda/g6dg (136hp) and later ones (2010..12) ufda/txda (140/163)hp engines. The Mondeo IVs also had both engines, but for some reason with many different engine codes, like ufbb, ukbb, azbc, ukba, qxba, txba, and txbb. No idea why.
 

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The early mk4 Mondeos use the same engine as in the Mk1 Kuga and Mk2 Focus, no idea about the later ones. I'm guessing your Mondeo is a later mk4 (after 2010)?
Nope... 2009. Alan Howatt shows them being replaced here. I know cos every time I plug forscan in it shows glow plug fault, but it still runs fine.

 

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Nope... 2009. Alan Howatt shows them being replaced here. I know cos every time I plug forscan in it shows glow plug fault, but it still runs fine.

LOL, just checked the engine I pulled from my ('08) Kuga that's still sat on a stand in my garage. I didn't remember disconnecting glow plugs but I obviously did :D . This engine's an even more outdated piece of c**p than I thought!
 
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