Ford Kuga Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 20 of 44 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,
My first post, but I am hoping you can help, my wifes Kuga 2013 - Titanium Diesel 4x4, has recently started having the following fault:

1st time: She was driving along and all of a sudden it engaged traction control and braked on wheel and ABS lights lit up. Took it to garage, no fault codes. Drove around fine for days.

Happened again no codes.

Today: She was driving it and all of a sudden got the tyre pressure warning light, then ABS, traction control, tyre pressure warning lights all lit up, then a message that hill start assist was deactived. (see attached picture she took safely whilst pulled over to calm down)
Took it to the garage and still no code!

What is going on? obviously this is stressing her out now, and all I get from the garages is "computer says no"

Has anyone else had this issue? What could it be?

Thank you in advance!
4035
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,610 Posts
Check connections to battery and chassis for one thing.

Possibly intermittent alternator fault.

Can the vehicle still be driven?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Martin1977

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Check connections to battery and chassis for one thing.

Possibly intermittent alternator fault.

Can the vehicle still be driven?
Thank you,
Do you think it needs a new battery and / or alternator? Would that cause this fault?

The Kuga seems OK to drive, until it has one of its moments and then it scares my wife as she is not expecting the error codes or the car tries to engage traction control.

All other times it is fine though.

I just wish it would throw up an error code so we can sort it as its very frustrating.

Thats why I came on here, as I am hoping one of you amazing people would know the answer :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,610 Posts
Check tightness of connectors and get the battery load tested which indicate whether there is any intermittent problems within it. The technicians should be able to check alternator output by switching on heavy load accessories on your Kuga.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,301 Posts
If it still has its original battery, I would change that as a first thing to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Check connections to battery and chassis for one thing.

Possibly intermittent alternator fault.

Can the vehicle still be driven?
Check tightness of connectors and get the battery load tested which indicate whether there is any intermittent problems within it. The technicians should be able to check alternator output by switching on heavy load accessories on your Kuga.
If it still has its original battery, I would change that as a first thing to do.
Thank you
So I have had the chance to do some testing today of the car, and borrowed an OBD port reader from a friend.

With the ignition on and engine off I get a 11.7 - 11.9v and the battery warning light is always on, on the dash illuminated red (does not go out)

When I start the engine the light goes out and the voltage shows at 14.6v - 14.8v

The battery is the original one, its a 2013 car so that would mean its 7 nearly 8 years old.

The car has done just over 43,000 miles.

Ive attached some pictures

So based on the advice here and this bit of diagnostic I have ordered a new battery ( A Bosch S5010)

Right call? based on your experience and own findings?

I hope its not the alternator as that looks like a pig of a job to change (and quite expensive)
4040
4041
4042
4043
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,610 Posts
If its showing 14.6V when engine running, and the battery light is on that could mean the alternator is running in emergency/fallback mode.

As Ozkuga says your battery could be failing even though it shows around 12v with engine not running.
With the reader I'd expect a fault code for the battery light being on.
 
  • Like
Reactions: NigelB

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
If its showing 14.6V when engine running, and the battery light is on that could mean the alternator is running in emergency/fallback mode.

As Ozkuga says your battery could be failing even though it shows around 12v with engine not running.
With the reader I'd expect a fault code for the battery light being on.
Thanks(y)
No fault codes at all, from this little unit.
And the two garages could not find any on their laptop either.

Oh, so it might be the alternator as well? :eek::oops:

I better start reading up on Kuga Mk2 alternator change guides as it looks like a real pig of a job (and the parts are not cheap either)

Battery arrives Monday so I will fit it and report back with new readings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
What should the alternator be delivering on the Kuga whilst running? I am assuming more than 14.6v?

Thanks for your help sir.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
610 Posts
14.6 is HIGH...it could indicate a shorting cell in the battery. At 8 years old, you've had your money's worth from it. When the alt is going flat out on a Flooded Lead Acid (ignore the silver calcium rubbish that's the "doping" metal in the plates)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
14.6 is HIGH...it could indicate a shorting cell in the battery. At 8 years old, you've had your money's worth from it. When the alt is going flat out on a Flooded Lead Acid (ignore the silver calcium rubbish that's the "doping" metal in the plates)
Thank you!
So its looking more than likely that this new battery will sort us out, thank you for that information
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,501 Posts
With the ignition on and engine off I get a 11.7 - 11.9v and the battery warning light is always on, on the dash illuminated red (does not go out)

When I start the engine the light goes out and the voltage shows at 14.6v - 14.8v
That's normal. The battery light will always stay on when the ignition is ON and the engine not running (indicating no charge from the alternator and/ or the warning light test when the ignition is first turned ON.

The voltages are also normal. Up to 15.1V can be normal. However, your battery is old so a new one is definitely required. When replacing it carefully check both terminal clamps and wiring looms for corrosion. Especially the negative and the sensor block on it with the two wires.

With your scanner it probably isn't compatible with Ford's Medium Speed CAN Bus protocol, so you may not be reading errors from all the systems. You'd be best checking for errors using ForScan (search on here or the internet for details.)

If its showing 14.6V when engine running, and the battery light is on that could mean the alternator is running in emergency/fallback mode.
I think you misread the post Phil? The battery light was only on when the engine wasn't running.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,610 Posts
"With the ignition on and engine off I get a 11.7 - 11.9v and the battery warning light is always on, on the dash illuminated red (does not go out)"

Yes probably, took it literally that the battery light is always on. (including engine running). First picture shows engine running and battery light is out'. I should have noticed that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,610 Posts
Oh heck, cant see wood for the trees.

So now need to find what is intermittently throwing the modules into panic mode. So back to is it intermittent alternator fault maybe or 'old' battey going soft and allowing alternator voltage to rise above.normal.

Does the OBD log CAN faults?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
If its showing 14.6V when engine running, and the battery light is on that could mean the alternator is running in emergency/fallback mode.

As Ozkuga says your battery could be failing even though it shows around 12v with engine not running.
With the reader I'd expect a fault code for the battery light being on.
That's normal. The battery light will always stay on when the ignition is ON and the engine not running (indicating no charge from the alternator and/ or the warning light test when the ignition is first turned ON.

The voltages are also normal. Up to 15.1V can be normal. However, your battery is old so a new one is definitely required. When replacing it carefully check both terminal clamps and wiring looms for corrosion. Especially the negative and the sensor block on it with the two wires.

With your scanner it probably isn't compatible with Ford's Medium Speed CAN Bus protocol, so you may not be reading errors from all the systems. You'd be best checking for errors using ForScan (search on here or the internet for details.)


I think you misread the post Phil? The battery light was only on when the engine wasn't running.
Oh heck, cant see wood for the trees.

So now need to find what is intermittently throwing the modules into panic mode. So back to is it intermittent alternator fault maybe or 'old' battey going soft and allowing alternator voltage to rise above.normal.

Does the OBD log CAN faults?
Thank you

The battery arrives on the 5th, so I will get it fitted the day it arrives.
I have also ordered this:

So I can hopefully use Forscan as suggested and see if it can dig a little deeper. But I am keeping everything crossed that the battery sorts the problem.

It had been left during the start of lock down for a while without being driven, so I am hopeful (in an odd way) that the battery has suffered as a result.

I will update after the 5th
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
371 Posts
Very common for voltage issues to cause various modules to go crazy, but it would normally leave a load of stored fault codes. Would be good for you to see for yourself with Forscan.

Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Good afternoon all
New battery has been fitted and the battery light went out, but the other lights still there.
A quick scan with Forscan and I have the following fault code showing, so its looking like the Rear left (rear passenger) ABS sensor is faulty!

Ive attached some pictures of the screen from the scanner.

4084
4085
4086
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,501 Posts
ForScan is invaluable for fault finding. You could try clearing the faults and see if it reappears.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
361 Posts
A very quick check for ABS sensors is to unplug the sensor and use a multimeter to test the resistance (symbol looks like this - Ω). A healthy sensor reads about 1100-1400 ohms, a faulty sensor reads as OC (open circuit).
If the sensor tests fine, check out the joint between the sensor and the main wiring (the bit where you disconnected).
good luck!
 
1 - 20 of 44 Posts
Top