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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

First question post so be kind.

I have an engine malfunction light with ignition on even before starting. Car starts and runs ok. All fluid levels are spot on.
I ran diagnostics and no codes present. Live data looked ok but I do not have data parameter values to check them against, just had good fuel presure, responsive MAF, boost presure, temp ok, throttle and pedal values reading and changing etc etc.

So my question is.... is this likely to be binacle solder issues or possibly my car scanner isn't sophisticated enough to grad a dtc?

The car has previously has water ingress in the n/s footwell but is dry now and has been for a couple of years.

Just as an aside having issues with the diff binding up on tight turns and intermittant abs and stability lights tho I don't think this is related to the eml as that was happening way before diff issues. I will post about this on a different thread at some point soon.

I have just downloaded forscan onto my laptop so hopefully during the week i'll get a chance to try that (Car is my pops)
cheers
 

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Premium Member
Kuga ST Line X 1.5 Eco 180ps 6 Speed Auto AWD Magnetic
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Search the forum for the correct OBD2 reader to use with Forscan, you need to be able to read the MS and HS Canbus data.
@smartguy69 is the guy who knows but you do need to scan your car and read the live data again using Forscan.
 

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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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Welcome to the forum @janolsson

The water ingress and instrument cluster can be an issue on the mk1. As your car had previously had water ingress I would fully inspect the BCM (fuse box) for any corrosion.

Forscan has developed more for later cars but does work with your car and will be far better in my opinion than some generic reader. You need a modded ELM 327 for a ford or better. The modded ELM has a switch to switch between MS and HS CANBUS systems. You need one that is wired. Most of the cheap ones on eBay or Amazon may be fine for reading codes providing it has an ftdi chip but there are not any I can recommend.

I do however recommend these. I would normally recommend the ones by Proscan and OHP but they are out of stock which just leaves these two. Both are recommended by FORSCAN and automatically switch between the two CANBUS systems. I have the last one.


 

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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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Thank you both for the interface info. Mine is a generic elm wifi interface so i will have to upgrade
Ideally you need a modded one that has the silver switch. Looks like this below. The OHP one is normally what I recommend at the budget scale.

You may be able to get a cheaper one from Amazon where you can read the reviews but I can't recommend them as I haven't tried them. I have the OBDLink and another one if our members who I helped with his car at my house had bought the Vgate one.

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Gadget Camera accessory Audio equipment
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
UPDATE
Today after a bit of research i decided to try the oil service reset. The car was serviced back in the summer and done less than 1000 miles since. I still checked the level and quality though.

So pressed the accelerator and brake, tunrned on ignition and 15 seconds later oil reset done. Engine Malfunction light extinguished. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well knowledgeable peeps the engine malfunction warning is back. Car has done approx 400 miles since reset.
Having scanned with Forscan I got the oil condition warning.
A bit of back story, the car had a new DPF last spring. I found out today the garage told my pops it should have a new pressure sensor fitted with the new DPF but they would see if he could get away with not replacing it. He did not know if the garage reset the dpf and pressure sensor parameters when they fitted the new dpf.

I read on here someone that was having similar issues after having aftermarket DPF fitted. The car was doing lots of regens and hence triggering the oil service light after so many counts.

So what i have done today is reset the dpf and sensor parameters to see if this stops unnecessary regens. The oil level was slightly raised and smelt a little of diesel so I will be doing an oil and filter on Tues afternoon.

I couldn't find the regen count or DPF ash level in Forscan (but I was in a rush) but as the car is performing well and not spitting soot I thought a reset of the parameters might work.

Thoughts anyone??
 

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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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Rising oil level may indicate the vaporiser isn't working. I would have replaced the vaporiser before the DPF.
 
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Mr. Happy. “Sweet Cheeks”
Kuga 2ltr AWD Titanium X, Midnight Sky.
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I had my Vaporizer replaced and then had the DPF professionally cleaned then they also replaced the sensor.

DPF issue's are a pain in the posterior to put it politely.
 

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Mk1 2009 Kuga 2.0 Titanium AWD
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I have the Vgate shown above, seems to work very well. Bought after been recommended by someone on here 👍

Can I ask, what is meant by resetting dpf and sensor parameters?
I've read it a few times about resetting parameters on things but no idea what it means or how to do it in FORscan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have the Vgate shown above, seems to work very well. Bought after been recommended by someone on here 👍

Can I ask, what is meant by resetting dpf and sensor parameters?
I've read it a few times about resetting parameters on things but no idea what it means or how to do it in FORscan.
Sorry about the late reply
I found options to reset the sensor to tell it the current reading is normal. I cant remember what i did with the dpf ash level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Update
Today after approx 500 miles (according to my pops) the warning lights are back on.
I did tell him that next step might be new pressure sensor and/or vapouriser. So earlier I rang a stealership to ask about price and availability on the vapouriser, to be told he can't find one listed. Now this chimed with something I had read (probably on a post on this forum!) that earlier models didn't have a vapouriser. The parts guy confirmed that this car had a euro 4 engine.
Unfortunately I can't go look at the car or pull the codes for a couple of days as my missus has COVID so I don't want to put pops at risk.
I plan on trying a forced regen as well as looking at exhaust gas temp readings (if avaiable) and pressure.
If all else fails I will pull the dpf off and give it a clean.

Does anyone know what pressure value I should be seeing? I assume during regen i should see temps of 600??
I'm going to do some more reading me thinks
Jan
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I went and picked my pops car up today.
Confirmed dpf issues
After looking at some live data the pressure sensor is fixed at max pressure even when no pipes attached.
In the morning i'll pick up a sensor and see where we are at with the dpf
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Fitted the new sensor today.
Initially the pressure reading was fluctuating massively. Cleared the excess ash and soot codes and reset the sensor learned values.
The engine malfunction came straight back so took the car out for an itallian tune up. I then cleared the codes and this enabled me to do a static regen.
After the regen the pressure fluctuated less and the values were a lot lower.
So far 30 miles ish and no return of the malfunction light or codes.

As an aside the sensor that was on it that failed was not the same shape with the tubes in the wrong orientation so it wasn't able to be bolted to the battery box. The only thing holding it in place was the tubes!
 
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