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Hi - I have a 62 plate KUGA and recently the engine management light has come on. Garage says it's DPF Issues because I mainly do short journeys. Told me to take it for a long run to clear it - didn't work - so he did an oil and filter change and ran it through a regeneration programme 3 times - engine management light only went off on last time. Next day it came back on and have been told it is blocked and can't be unblocked - otherwise would have during regeneration. Talking about whole new system now - costing alot of money. Meanwhile I'm driving round with the engine malfunction light still on and sometimes the engine light pops up. Just spent hundreds to get no further forward - any advice
 

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If or when I have DPF problems the first thing I would look at would be the vaporiser . they gradually get blocked with crud over time and will be unable to clean the DPF, when they do no amount of forced regeneration or high speed driving will make the slightest difference in cleaning the DPF. There are lots of second hand vaporisers for sale that have been taken from low mileage vehicles they are not that expensive in the scheme of things.
If a vehicle with a blocked vaporiser is continually driven the DPF will eventually get blocked to the stage where the DPF and the vaporiser will need replacing.
 

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There are lots of reasons for DPF related engine management issues, vaporisers, pressure sensor, blocked pipes, all of which are typically able to be replaced before the DPF itself needs replacing. Good advice would be first to establish the actual OBD (on board diagnostic) code associated with your engine management warning light. Most good garages should be able to run diagnostics to find this out or, as many on this forum have done, purchased their own Modified ELM327 device and used the free FORScan app to do so for half the price or less than the cost charged for garage diagnostics.
 

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When a vaporiser starts to block it will show up on a scanner as P246B-00 vehicle conditions incorrect for DPF regeneration or P2463-00 DPF soot accumulation or P24A4 DPF restriction.
 

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A new DPF (worst case) is around £240 online... any garage would fit this for you for around £50. As per the advice above, find out what the problem is first before committing to any repairs.
 

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I had the exact same issue with my previous 62 plate Kuga, I took my car to the DPF doctor and when he ran a check it was just the DPF sensor that was at fault to it wasn’t telling the car to carry out a Regen. as soon as it was replaced I never had anymore issues
 

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DPF filters when they are blocked to the stage where a regeneration cannot take place, rather than jump in with a replacement as most garages are more than happy to do. An easy DIY fix is to remove the DPF ( very easy on a Kuga ) and blow it through with an ordinary pressure washer, Its exactly the same thing as what a lot of so called specialist DPF unblocking firms are now doing. There is nothing toxic or dangerous about it they block with dust that is usually harmlessly ejected from the tail pipe. If anyone feels unsure about having a go themselves theres lots of YouTube clips showing how easy it really is.
 

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I’ve just had my 59 plate Kuga in the garage with a dpf problem. The mechanic couldn’t diagnose the exact fault as their computer wouldn’t sync to the car. A bit mysterious?. So he said to take to a main dealer. I went out and bought an Obd 2 reader from eurocarparts and plugged it in. It came back with three faults- P2463, P244B and P2453. The other thing is that the engine temperature will not go above 70 degrees. Although my missus said it go up to 90 degrees temporarily the other day and instantly performance increased. Any thoughts or ideas?? I don’t want to go to main dealers as they are all rip off nob heads.
 

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Gents, may or may not be relevant to some of you. But I know I have read somewhere that someone paid loads of money trying to fix the DPF issue, including several times to a Ford Garage ...... and in that post, he suggested that changing the fuel filter actually fixed the problem. Not sure I understand the engineering logic..... but my Kuga has the Engine malfunction keep coming up and limp Mode... I have already paid to have DPF cleaned and forced Regen and that had zero effect. I had a Major service yesterday, and all filters changed. I need to reset the engine fault codes, but am going to drive now and see if Engine Malfunction does come up again.

As an aside, my mate has said that with his wife's Volkswagen, the automatic regen does not take place if the fuel tank is less than 1/4 full.... another random suggestion, but just wondering if the same is with the Kuga? - saw this on an AA website
Low fuel level – generally less than a quarter of a tank – will prevent active regeneration taking place.

This is an interesting read too, about DIY clean of the filter DIY Clean of Kuga DPF
 

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DPF issues are the one of the most mentioned problems on this site Banjoski.

Welcome to the forum matey.
If you could put your Kuga details into your signature it will help others to help you.
Go to your photo box top right corner, open settings and go to signature and place model, engine. size .year.

I had DPF issues and it was a sensor problem, fixed and running well now.

I'm sure someone will give you a bit of advice.
 

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Gents, may or may not be relevant to some of you. But I know I have read somewhere that someone paid loads of money trying to fix the DPF issue, including several times to a Ford Garage ...... and in that post, he suggested that changing the fuel filter actually fixed the problem. Not sure I understand the engineering logic..... but my Kuga has the Engine malfunction keep coming up and limp Mode... I have already paid to have DPF cleaned and forced Regen and that had zero effect. I had a Major service yesterday, and all filters changed. I need to reset the engine fault codes, but am going to drive now and see if Engine Malfunction does come up again.

As an aside, my mate has said that with his wife's Volkswagen, the automatic regen does not take place if the fuel tank is less than 1/4 full.... another random suggestion, but just wondering if the same is with the Kuga? - saw this on an AA website
Low fuel level – generally less than a quarter of a tank – will prevent active regeneration taking place.

This is an interesting read too, about DIY clean of the filter DIY Clean of Kuga DPF
So just been out for a drive, and Engine Malfunction came on again. So, all filters changed, DPF has been cleaned (on vehicle) (£230) and force regenerated, and ECU reprogrammed etc, and the garage said the sensor was OK. The garage are going to do some more diagnostics next week - but definitely before I buy a reconditioned DPF direct from Ford (£470+VAT) I will try the cleaning as described in the DIY Clean post.
 

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Try a company called CATMAN . Recently purchased a brand new DPF for my mk2 . next day delivery and £380 inc vat and delivery. Garage who fitted it said it was amazing quality.
 

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So today, I took DPF off (had to grind rear nuts off and drill studs out - no way at all they would budge) . I flushed with hose pipe, had fairly good flow. Subsequently put 500ml of oven cleaner fluid in, sloshed around and left for 10 mins, flushed out again. Then did same again with “elbow grease”. In end I had full flow and sensor pipes etc all clear. I then dried it by standing vertical and a convector fan blasting it for an hour.
Refitted, tightened everything up, cleaned the two sensor probes. Started first time - bit of smoke as temperature boiled off residual water. Cleared error codes, and took out for a drive... 3rd gear 3000 rpm. **** it, Engine Malfunction light on again after maybe 5 minutes. The fault code is
P2002:00-26 CMTDCs
Particulate trap efficiency below threshold (Bank 1)

My gut is telling me that it actually comes on when the control system tries to start a regeneration cycle.... so I wonder now if it might be the vapouriser.

It is going to my local garage tomorrow, for them to do some more diagnosis.

anyone got any advice?? Definitely the DPF is not blocked
 

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So today, I took DPF off (had to grind rear nuts off and drill studs out - no way at all they would budge) . I flushed with hose pipe, had fairly good flow. Subsequently put 500ml of oven cleaner fluid in, sloshed around and left for 10 mins, flushed out again. Then did same again with “elbow grease”. In end I had full flow and sensor pipes etc all clear. I then dried it by standing vertical and a convector fan blasting it for an hour.
Refitted, tightened everything up, cleaned the two sensor probes. Started first time - bit of smoke as temperature boiled off residual water. Cleared error codes, and took out for a drive... 3rd gear 3000 rpm. **** it, Engine Malfunction light on again after maybe 5 minutes. The fault code is
P2002:00-26 CMTDCs
Particulate trap efficiency below threshold (Bank 1)

My gut is telling me that it actually comes on when the control system tries to start a regeneration cycle.... so I wonder now if it might be the vapouriser.

It is going to my local garage tomorrow, for them to do some more diagnosis.

anyone got any advice?? Definitely the DPF is not blocked
My garage, did diagnostics and said sensor defective.... apparently P2002 fault code is sort of suggesting a sensor or pipe problem, as it doesnt sense that the DPF is even there. They fitted spare and test drove it no problem. Ive test driven it and all is well. Great garage, they said drive for a few days, and if ok, get new sensor, and then give their spare one back...... and zero charge for any of this. Great local garage ethos of valuing return customers.

Overall, a good experience. I dont think I will ever pay to have DPF cleaned. its easy enough to do yourself (if you can get rear flange nuts undone). Self-clean DPF and fit replacement sensor, would set you back £50 ... worth a punt before even paying for diagnostics.
 

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It's always nice to read a positive result and where the garage has been extremely reasonable.
 

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Local garages are the best IMO. I will take my Kuga to my local Ford non-dealership in future. Service in lockdown was £100 with no Ford apprenticeship gimps being let loose with a spanner costing an arm and a leg and charging for unnecessary work option work too! They even did extra work I asked for but FOC. Couldn't have been more helpful. Ford needs to learn that lesson.
 

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To finish up my input, I picked up new sensor with 12months guarantee from eBay - went for mid range cost circa £35. Fitted easily and everything is good. What I have noticed is that the engine appears much more responsive to the throttle. I have no technical info whether the sensor does indeed alter performance, but a new one seems to have perked performance up. Anyone comment on that??

anyway, a new sensor and a container of oven cleaner ..... great solution for £40
 
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