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hi 8moth old kuga , not been driven latly gave it a quick turnover 4 days ago , covid19 so not getting out , had to call aa for a jump as it wouldnt turn over , he put his drain meter on it and it was only pulling 0.6 of an amp that will add up over the days , battery voltage was 11.5 maybe not enough to turn over , all ford garages shut , so im gubbed , when i first got it jan 18 battery ford said was dead as everyone plays about with car so its been run done , mmm, they said they changed it , mmm see on forums this seems to be a problem with kugas , wheres the juice going , and why produce a car like this with this prob . ive never had a car with a prob like this in my life , battery fails you get a new one yeh in the old days not now .
 

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I would hazard a guess that because there is far more going on in the motors these days that's the reason for drain on battery life.
Years ago there was no:
Satnav showing you the way
Air conditioning running fans
Dashcams on whilst running
Daytime Running lights permanently on
Heated seats

I have just replaced my battery and my Kuga has all the above and when I was doing regular mileage it was all ok, But as soon as you stop the long hall miles and just do local run it will drain and knacker the battery.
I got mine from Halfords yesterday and speaking to the guy who fitted the battery he was saying they are inundated with battery orders because of lockdown.

Just my thought's on the battery situation
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yep realise that , just unimpressed with drain , to me when ig nition is of it should cut all power ,
 

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If its 0.6 of an amp then you have a problem. When everything is shut down including battery saver there should be less than 100ma (0.1 amp) and in reality 10 times less than that.

If your not driving it then its worth putting a charger on it as above.


I posted the following yesterday.

Just so happens I had to assist a Fiesta this afternoon been parked for nearly 2 months and engine turned not even a full rev I would say, so battery had something in it. Couldnt get in to jump start so clipped on a charger 10 amps for 2 minutes. Tried a start, no problem, unclipped the charger and let the Fiesta idle a few minutes before switching off an starting again before it was driven off.
 

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Remember chaps the Kuga only charges when braking of when rolling with your foot of the gas. (Think that’s right). So pulling it out and letting it idle won’t work. I’m sure a guru will kick me if I’m wrong.
Took mine for a run the other day (to the shops) and hadn’t been started for 3 weeks and all seemed out.
 

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Well that's what the books says Phill !

I did sort of check what happens an it does charge when driving along but possibly only up to when the battery is maybe 80% charged and after that, any braking, or, really deceleration (particularly overrun), the battery is given some significant high current top up, using the braking effect of the battery load on the alternator and subsequently the engine and vehicle mass.
 

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Even only being driven once a week to speak of, my Kuga is still stop/starting, so the battery must be in good nick, especially as it's over 3 years old...
 

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I was becoming a little concerned about mine under the present circumstances so put it on a trickle charge last weekend and was very surprised how soon it reached 100%. My charger also does the full test modes and battery condition is fine, happy considering it's now 3 1/2 years old and doing little mileage at present
 

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he put his drain meter on it and it was only pulling 0.6 of an amp that will add up over the days
As Fillco said, you've got a problem there. It should be a lot lower than that, I'd be expecting around 20mA (0.020 A)

I was becoming a little concerned about mine under the present circumstances so put it on a trickle charge last weekend and was very surprised how soon it reached 100%.
100% on your battery charger? Don't believe that- hook up ForScan and see what SOC it says your battery is at. My charger does the same thing but I had to leave it on float charge for a couple of days to fully charge the battery on ForScan. The case of the battery charger was also significantly cooler after that couple of days- so the battery definitely was still drawing a bit of current even though the charger said it was completely charged.
 

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I dont think the charger actually switches off (unless it has that ability) and provides a sort of float charge. David out of curiosity did you check what volatge was across the battery at the end of the charge while the charger was still connected?
 

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Had my Kuga a month now, have had to jump start it twice already, not very impressed for a 4 month old car. Will phone ford assist later. Surely it shouldn't be like that.
 

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Whats your symptoms (ok apart from not starting), does it turn over at all and is it mainly short journeys you do.
 

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Whats your symptoms (ok apart from not starting), does it turn over at all and is it mainly short journeys you do.
Have done around 4 journeys of roughly 12 miles in the month I've owned it, been sat on drive otherwise. ;)
 

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I think it would probably benefit from putting a charger on it if its only done 48 miles in a month, particularly as you wont know what state of charge the battery was in when you bought it. If you do connect a charger observe where you connect the negative, it should be on the body ground post (its intentionally not easy to get to the battery negative).
 

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Yes definitely charge it on the vehicle with a decent modern charger, there is a battery monitoring system on the Kuga which monitors how much is taken out and put into the battery.

Hopefully no ones previously removed the battery which would upset the stored monitored data.
 

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Thanks Fillco, if that don't work, I will call ford assist. ;)
 

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As Fillco said, you've got a problem there. It should be a lot lower than that, I'd be expecting around 20mA (0.020 A)



100% on your battery charger? Don't believe that- hook up ForScan and see what SOC it says your battery is at. My charger does the same thing but I had to leave it on float charge for a couple of days to fully charge the battery on ForScan. The case of the battery charger was also significantly cooler after that couple of days- so the battery definitely was still drawing a bit of current even though the charger said it was completely charged.
I didn’t remove the charger at 100%, it was left on for 48 hrs doing it’s float charge
 
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