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As trigg says you need a tool that will fit into the 2 slots on the piston, long nose pliers may work but it could be very tight as you turn it to retract the piston and I think they may be 'handed', that is, it may be a LH thread or RH thread, and whatever one side is, the other side is opposite of course. Unless someone can put me right on this!!
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Fillco said:
As trigg says you need a tool that will fit into the 2 slots on the piston, long nose pliers may work but it could be very tight as you turn it to retract the piston and I think they may be 'handed', that is, it may be a LH thread or RH thread, and whatever one side is, the other side is opposite of course. Unless someone can put me right on this!!
They are both RIGHT HAND threads. So turning the piston clockwise and pressing at the same time will result in piston going in the caliper.
 

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tarmo120 said:
Fillco said:
As trigg says you need a tool that will fit into the 2 slots on the piston, long nose pliers may work but it could be very tight as you turn it to retract the piston and I think they may be 'handed', that is, it may be a LH thread or RH thread, and whatever one side is, the other side is opposite of course. Unless someone can put me right on this!!
They are both RIGHT HAND threads. So turning the piston clockwise and pressing at the same time will result in piston going in the caliper.
Thanks for that.
 

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66 reg Rear pad change a little warning.

Well it was on my Easter list to do..

I got a wind back tool 'That fits all Ford & Jaguar rear calipers'

I have done this many times before, Renaults have a similar system so super confident....

Stripped the caliper off its carrier, (7mm hex pins) removed pads (4mm remaining after 32k mls)

I also noted that the new pads fit Vauxhall Vectra (Ferodo pads) (10mm when new by the way)

The wind back tool does not fit! It has 2 x pins at 22mm centres, the piston requires 20mm centres!

So I reassembled and had a beer in the sun!

It is different to the picture posted. I will machine a part to fit the caliper next week.

So a concluding warning. I suspect a Vauxhall caliper, so if investing in a wind back tool, make sure pins are 20 centres.

(They do universal types & sealy tools do a cube universal thingy)
 

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Thanks for the heads up regarding the wind back tool. Hope you enjoyed the beer.
 

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65 plate . Zetec . Powershift 4x4 .
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you can buy a full kit on ebay for £15 . you get both left hand and right hand and about 20 different adapters that covers most cars.

i bought dealer pads, they quoted £52 but i twisted the lads arm and got them at trade price £28 . euro car parts for pagid pads which are a good quality oem maker for mercedes etc are around £26 .
 

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Rear pads done.

Pads now fitted,drilled and tapped a plate at 20mm centres M6.

If you just grind the threads off a M6 to make a 5mm dia stud, about 4mm long - perfect.

Rear pad drivers side (UK) was down to 3mm (32 k miles)

Also changed brake fluid (Dot 4 LV spec)

TIP of the day: remove pin completely and clean completely, a bit of fine emery cloth did the trick.

Copper grease (high temp) on rubbing surfaces.

Took for a test drive and a lot better, the handbrake is slack at first but soon back to normal. (Manual h. brake)

As for the beer: Come on lets talk sense: Geordie Lager homebrew kit,(4%) a very refreshing drink with a dash of lemonade.

[I have barley wine at 8% when things are bad!]
 

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Just so EVERYONE is 100% clear..

DO NOT PUT COPPER SLIP ANYWHERE NEAR THE DISK OR PAD SURFACE ...

Copper slip goes on the back plate of the pad where it sits and locates against the brake piston.. if you’re not clear, YouTube is your friend... ??
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Does anyone know the size of the torx bit what holds rear disk on. 2012 plate. Wasn’t expecting it to be there

I believe it was quite large like T40 or T50.
However you can encounter a problem when removing the bolt. The backside is open to the elements and could get very rusty(like mine did).
So you'll have to play with it and not force the bolt to break. That was an annoying find.
 

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You cant work on a Kuga without a Torx set! Ford must have found a mine and tried to use all them up!

The fastener in question only pins the disc in position whilst the Wheel and Wheel nuts does the rest.

If it rounds off & snaps, drill the head off to remove disc.

If you really want to go the town, turn the disc round by 1 wheel stud, mark with a drill and re tap a threaded hole (M8 ot M6?)
Done that a few times. Then just use a off the shelf countersunk fastener (Make sure threads are short so just goes through the hub)

In the sensible days: they used to leave blind M8 threaded holes to use a pair of bolts to act as a puller to remove said disc.
 
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We had a 1985 Sierra back in the late 80's which needed a new clutch. First job was to remove the gear lever gaitor. Guess what I found fastening it to the transmission tunnel. Never even seen a Torx fitting before then. No camera phones either. Good job the guy in the motorist shop knew what I meant when I said it's like an Allen bolt but star shaped. I bought a guaranteed for life torx set from Halfords last year just in case.

Spline headed bolts for the cylinder head bolts as well. Only ever used them once in 30 years.
 

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I first saw them on a Vauxhall Astra, again 80's, Ford soon caught up.

(I do remember a pal of mine using mole grips to no effect and cursing 'Chuffing Torx things!)

Then to really mess you up, made them countersunk - as per brake disc above.

Then not to be outdone Volkswagen thought Hmm.. we need to invent a new tool for someone's tool box - Female spline bolts on driveshafts.

Then Rover K16 engine - male torx head bolts.

Then what gets my goat is M10 bolt with 15mm hex head (BS & ISO standard say 17!)
And then since when did 18mm head size come popular...

Jap stuff, well 10mm spanner does most things. but can throw up a M9 thread ?? (In a book so lets use it)

Rant over I need a beer.... Rover V8's 1/2 in. 9/16in, 7/8in did it all!
 
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I first saw them on a Vauxhall Astra, again 80's, Ford soon caught up.

Then what gets my goat is M10 bolt with 15mm hex head (BS & ISO standard say 17!)
And then since when did 18mm head size come popular...

Jap stuff, well 10mm spanner does most things. but can throw up a M9 thread ?? (In a book so lets use it)
They do that on motorbikes too. M6 bolts are usually 10mm spanner. M8 bolts can be 12 or 13mm and M10 bolts can sometimes be a 14mm spanner instead of a 17mm.
 

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In Australia, you often get M10 bolts with a 16mm hex head, and M12 with 18mm hex heads, but not all of them so nothing is standard.
 

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You cant work on a Kuga without a Torx set! Ford must have found a mine and tried to use all them up!

The fastener in question only pins the disc in position whilst the Wheel and Wheel nuts does the rest.

If it rounds off & snaps, drill the head off to remove disc.

If you really want to go the town, turn the disc round by 1 wheel stud, mark with a drill and re tap a threaded hole (M8 ot M6?)
Done that a few times. Then just use a off the shelf countersunk fastener (Make sure threads are short so just goes through the hub)

In the sensible days: they used to leave blind M8 threaded holes to use a pair of bolts to act as a puller to remove said disc.
I didn't read your post fully first time. You were referring to the torx set screw which retains the disc. I always use a hand impact with either a 2 or 4 pound hammer on these. Had mine for years. Never stripped one yet although I did have a fiat marea that had like a threaded stud which held the disc in placed and was a locating pin for the wheel. Hexagon head. They snapped.
 

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Rear pads update

A quick update on the rear pads I fitted at Easter - Ferodo as per previous picture.

Had a good 2000 miles to bed in now, discs are good, driving braking as good as ever.

They seem to be harder than the OEM's & definitely produce less brake dust compared to the fronts (Still originals)

I know the handbrake is a bit suspect on these models (manual H.brake) but with these pads the handbrake issues is worse.

The handbrake works fine but you have make sure. (I always leave in gear as well)

Just observations. Got TRW pads and new discs for the fronts in due course.
 

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As trigg says you need a tool that will fit into the 2 slots on the piston, long nose pliers may work but it could be very tight as you turn it to retract the piston and I think they may be 'handed', that is, it may be a LH thread or RH thread, and whatever one side is, the other side is opposite of course. Unless someone can put me right on this!!
Hi Fillco. They are not handed on the MK2 Kuga. Both wind in clockwise.
 
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