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No problem... enjoy your new thread!!!
 
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Mr. Uses Lots of Words
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Sorry Guzzilazz, I suppose I did get a bit carried away, please feel free to delete any of my comments/posts you feel are not appropriate, I will not be offended, yours sincerely Ian
Ditto the above.
 

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Discussion Starter #163
Update, I have had an opportunity to get in garage! Carbs off and rebuilt with refurb kit, new gaskets and seals etc small hiccup with needle valve but all good now, float levels reset etc,I cannot believe it but now no spark!!!!!!! Nothing touched since before layoff to do bathroom (less said the better, nod nod wink wink) Why its no spark I don't know, was perfect before, nothing touched, nothing done! Current to coils etc but no spark, have not looked too deeply into it yet but very frustrating, must look further into inter lock ie side stand, clutch lever, in neutral etc but at the moment all looks ok, spins over fine, might be ignition unit? All electrics appears to work fine, coincidentally indicators don't self cancel anymore? Not sure if related to no spark, I will check relays etc
 

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Discussion Starter #164
Afternoon update, non spark issue sorted, not sure what it was, just checked connections and now sparking, must have been bad connection somewhere, anyway still got weeping needle valve (rear cylinder) and still no starting!!!!! Been through carbs again! All appears alright but no joy, will strip again and sort needle valve (leaking valve made worse with viton tipped needle)maybe wrong angles? Anyway I'll soldier on
 

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Discussion Starter #165 (Edited)
Evening update, not sure if it was needle valve leaking, carbs on bench testing needle valve and float level etc then I noticed small weep from somewhere underneath carb (not flooding because of needle valve) will investigate further when I get more time:unsure:could be drain ****, when checking float height, not seating right:unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter #166 (Edited)
Can't seem to stop needle valve leaking, I'm thinking about trying fine lapping paste, also seen on another forum showing how to remove pressed in seats and replace with the ones that came with rebuild kit but thats if all else fails (last resort) . viton tips definitely worse on original seats, a lot of trial and error to be done yet to see which configuration works best ie rebuild, try it, swear when it doesn't work, strip down and try another way:confused: second hand carbs on ebay around 300 pounds and no guarantee they are any better than I already have! Valve seats are stepped inside body so getting a straight line at them is impossible, another thought is to go the single carb way ie different manifold and carb, cheaper than used carbs with no guarantee, oh well rant over stay tuned for next exciting episode 😬 ps it seems in my last post I had a word censored, I do swear (too much at the moment) but that was not a swear word ,it's the word for a male bird, I wonder if ballcock is censored?
 

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What condition are the seats in?, you can warm the carb bodies up and pull the seats but it's not a nice job.

The Viton tipped needles are normally a lot better.
 

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Discussion Starter #168
Hi keithmac, thanks for your reply, any interest from a professional is very much welcome (as is any interest from I consider to have become my friends on this forum)( too many names to type) If I can remember how to put up pics I will, seats are a little difficult to see as they are stepped inside carb body although from what I can see they look good. It looks like the seats fit in under an aluminium plug from the outside, the replacement seats are for a xv535 but the carbs do look the same as my xv500, Viton tips let the fuel flood out nearly as fast as I can get it in! Normally I would agree with you, theoretically they should work better than metal tips. This is only a thought that it might be possible to remove said aluminium plug then push up old seat and replace with new, this is definitely the last resort as a number of things could go wrong and then still not fit or work, as close as I can measure it looks possible. Do you think fine valve lapping paste too course, then to finish with autosolve? just my thoughts. It seems unlikely that the leak is from around the seat unit and not the seal but not impossible. First pic is valve seat (as good a pic as pos), second is ali plug as viewed from above, 3rd is new seat and valve, diameters and lengths appear to be the same as original but cannot confirm. I appreciate giving advice in words and pics is not the same as hands on, any help greatly welcome, thanks to all
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Discussion Starter #169 (Edited)
Yet another update! as you can see from the last pic the new viton tipped valve and new seat work perfect together but is it possible to I fit them? I dont think cutting new seat on original seat possible as suggested in my last post unless some one knows better, Viton tip in its original shape does not seal, very basic vacuum test sees no seal at all, old valve in old seat shows partial seal, old valve in new seat works, so I have come to the conclusion that it must be the old seat where the problem is, does any body know of a solution? Look at shadow in pic, you can clearly see a differance in shape, maybe if I carefully file the ali body to a closer shape of the original ( four corners)? I dont mean the Viton bit
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The new viton needle is shorter (maybe the float tang can be adjusted adequately for that).

Looks like the need seat has to be pushed out of the carb, have you got another blanking plug in the rebuild kit for the outside?.

I wouldn't grind the new needle down, at this point I'd try and remove the old seat (as long as you have the replacement cap/ plug for the carb body!).

I've got a Honda NC30 carb assy in bits and a 1990 GSXR-750 in for carb strip tomorrow, plus a TS250 to finish off as well. Carbs don't like to be stood up for long periods!.
 

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Discussion Starter #171
Good evening kiethmac, thanks for good advice as usual, as I can't think of a good way of repairing old seats it would seem the way forward is to try and fit new seats, unfortunately no replacement caps are supplied ,do you have any ideas how to cap? Would you drift the seat out and push cap off at same time or drill out cap then drift out seat? Which way I do it is my responsibility and mine alone and only asking for guidance and advice, what year is the TS? I had a TS100 and a DT125 great fun wished I'd had 250 but did have Montessa 247 on a "P" plate wish I'd got it now,I'm too old to use it though LOL!
 

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Good evening kiethmac, thanks for good advice as usual, as I can't think of a good way of repairing old seats it would seem the way forward is to try and fit new seats, unfortunately no replacement caps are supplied ,do you have any ideas how to cap? Would you drift the seat out and push cap off at same time or drill out cap then drift out seat? Which way I do it is my responsibility and mine alone and only asking for guidance and advice, what year is the TS? I had a TS100 and a DT125 great fun wished I'd had 250 but did have Montessa 247 on a "P" plate wish I'd got it now,I'm too old to use it though LOL!
ah the old montessa my very first bike was a cota 49 followed by a Bultaco 250 with the sammy miller high boy frame.
 

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It's a 1976 TS250 (early airbox), had to make an air filter for it as they are obsolete!.

I'd be tempted to try and push the cap out with the needle seat but seems the cap is not available as a spare part.

Keyster only supply a viton needle oddly enough in their rebuild kit, no seat at all.

1983 carb float needle where to find worth a read?.
 

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The cap looks quite sturdy and has an O ring seal. Maybe a few squirts of gt85 to loosen it off before trying to knock it out?.

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Discussion Starter #175
Wow, thank you very much kiethmac, I cannot tell you how long I've been trawling the internet to find that exact information, you are a star and top bloke! now Ive got much more confidence of a working solution, may be some heat to expand the body might help, every where I went on web could only show/tell me about the needle and not the seat, I was beginning to lose hope untill now!
Hi b road what fun we had in our younger days my Montessa was also a cota can't remember if it was 247 or248, I do remember the rubbish gearbox and neutrals everywhere , jumping out of gear at the critical moment etc LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #176
Hi kiethmac, sorry to bother you again but what is gt85? Is it like WD40? Or similar?
B road those montessa 250 motors were the engine of choice for karts back in the day when 250 singles were introduced (late 70s) lightened flywheel instead of the big brass lump of trials bikes, different gear ratios of course, walked all over us in the 210 Villiers class! As did the Japanese 125 class!
 

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Mr. Uses Lots of Words
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Hi Cookieman, DIY Man here lol. I think I have some GT85 in my garage and I am sure it is a silicone or ptfe based lubricant. I used it the same as I would WD40.
 

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Discussion Starter #178
Hi DIY Man, oops sorry I mean smartguy, you could never beat PlusGas back in the day, I do have a tin of silicone based lubricant, can't think of name of it at moment but its used the same way as WD40. Anyway DIY is not a four letter word and I think we use it if we want LOL, ps I hope someone has a sense of humour as these little digs are meant as a bit of fun, here I go again ,going off subject as usual,
 

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Mr. Uses Lots of Words
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I think most of us here have a sense of humour, even the more serious of posters.

We are waiting for your EUREKA moment. If all else fails put them in the post to keithmac.
 
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Hi DIY Man, oops sorry I mean smartguy, you could never beat PlusGas back in the day, I do have a tin of silicone based lubricant, can't think of name of it at moment but its used the same way as WD40. Anyway DIY is not a four letter word and I think we use it if we want LOL, ps I hope someone has a sense of humour as these little digs are meant as a bit of fun, here I go again ,going off subject as usual,
PlusGas, great stuff and luckily still available today, bought a tin about a month ago
 
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