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Discussion Starter · #301 ·
New (used) jet block/holder arriving by Friday, just to be sure I didn't spoil old one when clearing choke passage last time (first time months ago)
 

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Some bikes like 1/8th throttle along with choke to start, some just choke.

Whatever works, if it's only 1/4 choke then fair enough.

Probably get better with some miles on it when you get it back in one lump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #303 ·
Yeah that's what I'm keeping my fingers crossed for, I've still got a fair bit to do yet , but I'll keep running it every so often so as not to let it slip back into what was wrong before, to be honest I don't know what I've done to make it run , maybe just a difficult starter until you know the knack. New tyres/battery/paint job etc to do yet. Maybe I'm getting ahead of myself at the moment, but to get it starting fairly normal has given me a big boost and renewed enthusiasm
 

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Discussion Starter · #304 ·
Back to non starting, did get running with sniff of carb cleaner, but only on rear cylinder, I'm going to check compression again and maybe look at valve clearance, both checked before and found to be correct, low compression would cause poor starting etc, maybe when it started before it was just a fluke, I don't know, back to the drawing board !!!
 

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You could have an electrical gremlin when the starter is under load, but I believe you tested for that a while back?.

Ideally compression should be around 140 / 150 psi.

If you've already done valve clearances and valve timing checks they will still be ok.

Are you still running it from a remote fuel tank?. The 535's have 2 tanks with an electrically operated solenoid for reserve, these used to give bother (solenoid sticking).

Have you checked coil primary and secondary winding resistances, or swapped front and back coils?, if dead cylinder follows coil then you've proven coils duff.

Check voltage while cranking, even if engine sounds fast enough you'll have troube at sub 10.5v / 11v battery voltage. Starter takes a massive current draw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #306 · (Edited)
Thanks for reply kiethmac, yeah tested spark by leaving new plug in and using an old plug in cap, good spark, compression is between 140/150 on a cold engine, still using gravity fed remote bottle, open to the air so no air locks, xv500 has a normal single steel tank , it does have a mechanical vacuum pump, not fitted at the moment, but does work, as far as I'm aware the pump is only needed at low tank levels possibly only at reserve levels, on the occasions it has run and got up to temp it runs pretty good without pump. Primary and secondary windings in coils checked ok. I haven't checked voltage at cranking but will do. I was only going to check tappets and compression again just to rule it out once and for all. Double checking everything, even the most unlikely. I've still got the feeling it's in the carbs, I've got new (used) jet block/holder arriving Friday, again just to make sure the choke passage I cleaned out on the original one wasn't over done ,only one choke passage in one housing was blocked up. I doubt this is the problem but just to be sure I'll put in another. Thanks for your patience and please keep posting any thoughts, I do try anything suggested
 

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Worth a go with the jet block, hope it sorts it out.

If spark plugs have sooted up give them a good clean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #308 · (Edited)
Compression checked 150+ front cylinder, rear cylinder 150. Cold engine, throttle wide open, cranking speed. Have checked battery voltage 12.6 no load, drops off to under 11(10.7) when cranking, could this be the problem? It can't help though, I'll try a known good battery although I didn't think this one was that bad, pics later
 

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Discussion Starter · #310 ·
First pic is rear cylinder, attached pic is front cylinder, jet block/holder just arrived, will try to fit tomorrow, manual says 154 psi is very good, both cylinders within good tolerances ie less than 14psi between cylinders
 

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I would hook another battery up. Also and this may sound really stupid but have you tried starting it with fuel in the carbs but with your temporary petrol tank disconnected.

Also do your carbs have an electric fuel shut off. My lawn mower has one and when it sticks I have to put a pair of pliers on the fuel supply pipe, cutting the fuel off, to start it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #312 ·
No electric shut off, will try with full carbs and no temporary tank, will be tomorrow now though if possible
 

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11V on cranking from a bike battery is very good
 

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Discussion Starter · #314 · (Edited)
Hi guzzilazz, it's not a bike battery I'm using but a small car battery(Toyota Aygo) ,it's not new but does show 12.6 volts after standing overnight after charging, I don't know if this means it's ok, I will purchase the correct battery when I'm convinced its running satisfactorily, when cranking it will drop to 10.7 after about 10 second, then creep back up when not cranking, I don't know if this means anything. If I left battery charger on while cranking would you think it would help, or is that a bad idea? I am open to any suggestions, obscure or otherwise and any help is greatly appreciated, I still think the problem lies in the carbs but not obsessed with the idea and will try anything thanks Ian PS original battery still available but at 39 years old I'm not sure it's up to it LOL:)
 

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11V cranking from ANY battery is good. You're talking about a short term current drain of say 20-30 A, and that will kick the battery down. I seem to recall my Stelvio (which had a voltmeter built into the "rider display" would drop to 10 point something. That had an advanced start function, you'd press the button and release, and the bike would do the rest, so you could watch what was going on... The fact it recovers to 12.6 quickly shows it's fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #316 ·
Thanks guzzilazz, I hope that means the battery is OK and it's one thing to cross off the list of things to check . I hope to get around to trying more on the bike today, but it depends on what mood she's in. Regards Ian
 

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If you want to confirm, just stick a voltmeter across your Kuga battery and ask someone to start it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #318 ·
I think I could stick volt meter on the windscreen and run leads to battery therefore I could do the check unassisted, only problem today is that the weather is not kind and Kuga outside in heavy rain !!! It's a good idea to check condition of battery on Kuga anyway, thanks for tip, Ian
 

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I think I could stick volt meter on the windscreen and run leads to battery therefore I could do the check unassisted, only problem today is that the weather is not kind and Kuga outside in heavy rain !!! It's a good idea to check condition of battery on Kuga anyway, thanks for tip, Ian
I have a clamp meter which I bought specifically for the boat, and used it to diagnose a failed (I thought) glow plug... Current draw for 20 seconds as the plugs heat was 40A! and the engine battery was down to about 11.5V
 

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Discussion Starter · #320 ·
Put in new jet block, checked both blocks, all clear, filled carbs up until needle valve's shut, removed temporary tank and then pushed start button, will not start, a little choke or alot, airfilter on or off, makes no difference, will not start without sniff of carb cleaner, then will only tickover with revs gradually dieing until stalling, can't touch throttle, it kills it immediately, front cylinder appears to be not firing, back to square one I suppose, cannot say I'm not bitterly disappointed
 
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