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Discussion Starter #1
Hi
This is my first post.
I have Kuga 2.0 diesel auto 4x4
I have had the car for 15 months and the battery has gone dead 3 times now.
First time was 2 days after I bought it. My wife had been linking her phone to the Bluetooth on the Saturday. Sunday the battery was dead. Dealer took it back and put a new battery on it. We decided not to use Bluetooth again for a while. We got more confidence with it as time went by and we started to use Bluetooth again. It was fine for a while.
Unfortunately it went flat again in October. RAC checked the battery and it was kaput. 3rd battery was put on.
Wife used the car again on Saturday having set Bluetooth up again. Car wasn't used on Sunday.
This morning, it's as dead as a Dodo again. RAC man said battery was okay as it's charge rate was very good.
I asked him to do an Amp Clamp test and he told me it had a drain of 2.3 which is sizeable apparently.
I have seen the MK1 had a module problem, but I thought it had all been fixed by the time the MK2 was released.
Now I have a previous post from someone that said it was the voice module not switching off.
Is anyone aware of whether or not this was still a problem on a 64 plate.
It's too much of a coincidence for this to happen again after my wife has used Bluetooth again don't you think.
Did this problem have a recall for it.
Is it an expensive job.
Many thanks in advanceEdited by: Chandlc
 

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Sounds like the voice control module linked to bluetooth not shutting down. Charge battery and debond all phones, run for a few days and it should be ok, rebond phones again and see what happens, another flat battery confirms the module fault. This was how my main dealer pinned mine down on the mk1.
A vehicle software update sorted the problem, but module could possibly need replacing
good luck
RonnieEdited by: phoneman
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Ronnie
When you say debond, do you mean remove all phone data like when the car would have been new. Havent heard that term before.Edited by: Chandlc
 

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If there are no phones paired with the Bluetooth the module wont keep alive trying to pair and will hopefully not flatten your battery.
 

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Debond or unpair all phones, same thing. If there are no phones paired then the voice control and bluetooth modules are inactive so no power drain. It is a time consuming method to prove this but it is effective.
 

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2015 Titanium X - Automatic
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Hi All,
First post on the forum... Google brought me here last night via the thread in the MK1 side titled "Unexplained Battery Drain".. The thread was very informative.... brilliant.

I have a 2015 Kuga Titanium X... I've owned it since March 2019. It's been fantastic until now.
About 3 weeks into lock-down, which is no doubt purely a coincidence, and only using the car once a week as a big trolley, I too have now experienced this terrible thing of the battery draining in under a week. I've had the AA out once, when it happened the first time (via Ford Assist), who tested the battery which he says is in good health. He was very good, stayed with me and the car and did varying tests.... Once we got the car going again he connected his meter to the car, we turned the ignition off and it was still draining 0.5v after several minutes.... Something is draining the battery... but what?
I checked that all interior lights were going off... no other lights were left on... nothing plugged into sockets etc etc... I had a tow bar fitted in the July, pulled the fuse out of that to make sure it wasn't those electrics... made no difference...

I have a battery charger, so when the car didn't start again when I next got to it several days later, I put it on charge... Fine.... Connected it up to the charger again a couple days later... then went to use the car last night to do my weekly shop, and although it had some charge in the battery, it wasn't enough to get the car going... put the battery charger back on it and left it a couple hours before heading off to bed... It started up again fine; good.

I'll have to put the charger back on the car today and let it fully charge.....
Having noted the possible causes from threads on this forum, mainly the Bluetooth problem of the voice control module not shutting down, I have now disconnected and switched off Bluetooth on both car and phone... Hopefully this will be a temporary solution until my local Vospers Ford Dealer (20 miles away) can take the car in.... but I fear I shall be having a frustrating time of it if they keep telling me they are finding nothing wrong... But hopefully by telling them to check certain things, and insisting they keep the car until it is done, then I might get somewhere... The car was in for servicing I think in January... you'd have thought they would have made sure the software was up to date then, but it wouldn't surprise me if they overlooked this and then claim it was already up to date anyway...

This is certainly unacceptable, but I'm just glad that I am not a key worker or urgently need the car... I am happy to let it die and wait my turn.... but it is still frustrating to say the least.

I'll let you know how I get on.... just wanted to share what's happened.
Thanks,
Naomi
 

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Hi Naomi, welcome to the forum.

How far are you travelling for your weekly shop and does your car have Stop Start?
 

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There was a similar issue on here only a couple weeks ago. Irrespective of what checks the AA man did and said my guess it is the battery. I would charge the battery up fully and then disconnect it from the car. Leave the car for a good few days, reconnect the battery and if it doesn't start it's the battery not holding charge.
 

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Smartguy,., I see the theory and logic, but sorry, there is no way I am going to disconnect the battery.. the car manual also says not to disconnect the battery.... I'll let Ford do stuff like that on these new modern cars... but I am not taking the risk of messing something up with the cars computer / electrics. Give me my old MK1.5 focus back any day - I was happy to do any work on that myself... that battery would have been out the car in an instant, but not now.

Fillco...My local supermarkets are half a mile away...The car has stop/start but there's no opportunity for it to kick in.... It made sense that with such a short trip, the battery would have had no chance to charge; but after the AA man came out the first time (and said his health check on the battery showed that it was perfectly healthy), he advised I let the car run on the drive for no more than 20 minutes, then take a long route to get to the supermarket, do my shop and then come home... so that is what I started to do... but the battery still drained... and that is a fast drain for it to kill the car in less than a week..... to me, there is much more to this...
 

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If that all your travelling it looks like the battery just isnt getting charged I'm afraid. The fact stop start never kicks in suggests the state of charge is still low. Only way to prove it is for someone to clip on a device to monitor the current drain when it has been stood for at least 20 minutes to allow for the battery saver to operate (this removes power from radio and interior lights). You don't leave a phone charger plugged in do you, I guess you dont :) ?

I'm travelling under 50 mile a week and I've posted elsewhere that my battery low state of charge warning came 2 days ago while cleaning the inside of the car and shut the radio off, never had it before. When I started the car and I monitored the charging current, it showed the battery was seriously low, started the car OK though. You may have to look at charging the battery in situ say every 2 or 3 weeks it will keep you going until your doing more regular longer journeys.


Heres a cheap and chearful device and worth £40 for the toolbox. Digital meter I have one and it compares well to a £600 Fluke, the Fluke has a removable display so I can clip it on the battery and read what's happing from within the cabin and with the bonnet down.
 

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Stop/Start never kicks in because it doesn't need to kick in... lol... other than stopping at the bottom of my road to turn left after 15 seconds of leaving (which doesn't trigger stop/start), the drive is done without the need for stopping...
And no, there are no chargers plugged into the car... I'd have to charge the battery every 2 or 3 DAYS to stop it completely draining.....

I am hoping that this is all it is - purely not using the car as often -and that it isn't anything more than that... not that it was used heavily before - but I do (did!) have a long journey to do every 2-3 months.,..... but it still baffles me that the car battery would manage to completely drain in under a week.... something isn't right. As I said above, I have now disconnected the Bluetooth from the car, so am leaving the car alone now until, say, Wednesday morning, and will see what the state of play is, then.... If the car starts no issues then I think I would have found the culprit. The VCM not shutting down properly is actually a good call.

I've already got a digital multi meter that would do the same as that one you linked up.... I might start taking readings every day from a full charge to see what I am losing every 24 hours.
 

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OK Naomi. Your digital meter needs to measure DC current being drawn from the battery and usually done best with a digital clamp meter that can measure Direct Current. As per the link. The one in the link is also a multimeter all in one. Beauty about the clamp meter is it is non invasive in that you dont have to disconnect the battery to fit the clamp meter or connect your meter in the battery line. Also the current involved can be quite high and the clip on ammeter can usully measure the high loads without damage. Maybe a time to invest its the only way to see what residual current is present.

That meter can read upto 40 amps in 0.01 amp or 400 amp in 0.1 amp steps AC or DC so is a great addition to the toolbox. You could get one on next day.
 

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I have had a phone call from Vospers (SW Ford Dealership) and they are going to collect the car and take it away on Tuesday and see if the battery is knackered or if it's something else....
£95+VAT for them to do an initial hour testing & looking at it though.... Yikes! 😟
 

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Think I would be looking for a mobile auto electrician to test , don’t think it would cost £120 and would probably talk you through the testing as well
 

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Or buy that meter I suggest as it will tell her everything and have something that's very useful for ten future to hand.
 

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£95 is nearly the replacement cost of a new battery. If the battery is the original one it could well be coming to the end of its life. ATS did a battery test on my Mazda 6 when I had some tyres fitted. I know the manager so it wasn't like they were trying to rip me off but they did what I think was a drop test and although I had no issues they said the battery was about 70%. Could have been 70% cold crank test but am not sure. It was the same test equipment as the auto electrician who looked after our trucks at work uses. Trucks have two batteries and you don't replace them both if just one is knackered.
 

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If it's the original battery then just get a new one fitted (on a 2015 model it would be going to fail sooner or later anyway.) If that new battery starts playing up then pay the $$$ for extra fault finding.

Otherwise, you're wasting money on fault finding labour when quite likely just the battery is on it's way out.
 

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If it's the original battery then just get a new one fitted (on a 2015 model it would be going to fail sooner or later anyway.) If that new battery starts playing up then pay the $$$ for extra fault finding.

Otherwise, you're wasting money on fault finding labour when quite likely just the battery is on it's way out.
Couldn't agree more murcod. I replaced my last car battery before it let me down. About 6 months after ATS did the drop test on it. The car just seemed to be turning over a little slower than normal in a morning and thought with winter coming on, best change it.

Whilst I am sure the AA have some decent kit which will check the battery voltage, charge rate etc, I bet they don't have the old fashioned tool that the commercial tyre outlets and auto electricians I dealt with use. Looks a bit like this.

It outs a load across the battery and gives an accurate indication of battery voltage, faulty cell and short circuited cell.

bt91-3.v2.jpg
 

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Yeh, you guys are right... Sod the £95+VAT to test the battery - just get them to change it.... it'll save both time and money.
To test the VCM, I switched the Bluetooth off on Thursday last week (after recharging the battery) and left it --- tried to start the car yesterday and it was dead again... so it must just be the battery.

Just waiting for a phone call to say they are on their way to collect the car.
 

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Just to update.... the Vospers guys showed up yesterday at about 11:30.... it took them 35 minutes to start the car...! Their jump start pack (which they claimed could start a lorry) failed to start my car... my car battery sucked its juice out of it and spat it out instantly... Utter useless... Don't get me wrong, these guys were sound and prolly in their early 50s, but my word did they not have a clue...
They phoned the service manager who suggested we jump start the car provided I had some leads.......(cos they weren't prepared)....... so yes, thankfully I had some heavy duty leads that I've had kicking around for years, and we got the car jump started - but I was horrified that they did not follow the correct procedure for connecting the leads to the vehicles.... 😣

Anyway, they got it going and drove it off to the dealer... Phone call later to say they didn't have a battery in stock anyway, but it's on order, should arrive today, they'll fit and return the car...... "we'll phone you to take payment before it gets returned..." .."OK, how much will that be, please?".... "soooo battery iiiis £174... plus 30 minutes labour ..... plus PPE......... £239.56".......

ouch.... £174 for a battery that only lasts 5 years.... and I bet they'll forget to reset the BMS.
 
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