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I changed ALL the transmission fluids at about 41,000 miles (+/- 2 k) and I never let the engine oil go past 10,500 miles no matter want Ford or others say. The new JLR engine is one to avoid, 1st service at 24 k, much too long...

Note they say change brake fluid every 3 years, because it is easy & can charge a fortune for 'potential problem guilt'.
the typical glycol brake fluid absorbs moisture becomes less effective, that moisture causes corrosion and lowers the boiling point of the fluid, thats why it should be changed every three years miles or not. tried the dot 5 synthetic type in my tt that sits in the garage most of the time, the sensors didnt like the viscosity and threw up faults with the esp system. change engine oil in kuga twice a year as iv done with all my vehicles over the years, its the lifeblood of the engine especially with the "progress" of the wet belt system used in these rather sensitive lumps, the change to the low viscosity oil in these modern low emission diesels has become ridiculous and in our case expensive option.
 

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I know about brake fluid being less effective with age & moisture. I have experienced it first hand towing with a Landrover years ago, and it is exciting... not recommended.

The point I was making was: You do 100,000 miles in your Kuga, in 3 years (UK) say 5 x oil changes @ 20k each, the Ford dealer will say 'full service history' when really the gearbox PTU and especially the RDU will be swimming in a soup of wear particles and definitely oil past its best. The heat cycles alone would may it deteriorate.

If you did 200,000 still no oil change as in the case of the RDU not even a oil drain plug!

The RDU is a relative simple bit of kit, but only takes one wear particle from a roller off a bearing to mince up the internals.

After 3 yr warranty probably don't care anyhow, but us Kugaonians do care about our motor.

Picture is of extreme case of brake fluid change, a 20 yr old fiesta. new fluid on top, wear particles & other stuff. Then old fluid bottom.
 

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Be VERY carefull with DOT5.

DOT5 is Silicone based and will destroy your seals, DOT5.1 is the "upgrade" from DOT4..
 

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Has anyone tried sucking out the oil from the RDU? I've got a Pela which is great but only if you can persuade the tube in to the lowest point.

Bob
 

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I use 100ml syringes for a lot of things at work, think one of those with a pipe may get most of it out. Can't beat dropping it straight out of the bottom though to get rid of the sludge.

I've seen first hand with their Powershift how they design things to scrape through until warranty runs out, built to last is a thing of the past unfortunately.
 
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