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Read opinions of those that own them, not those that are paid to write about them.

Absolutely love mine!
 

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Mine's great, I think it's the best SUV in it's class VAG products are superficially very nice but can easily turn into a money pit.Well that's the case down here in OZ.
 

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Mine is great too. No complaints due to the car at all, after 4 months. Just regret about missing power tailgate (not my fault; the dealer wasn't able to put the order in correctly and it cannot be equipped aftermarket) and about adaptive cruise control (too expensive :)).
Oh, maybe... I would have chosen a different color (moondust is a bit too... brown).
 

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Love the Kuga. On the 2nd one now in 4 years and can't fault it. It's a great smooth drive, practical andlove the high driving position, feels like a proper SUV. Power from the diesel is great too. Compares well with so called premium models for comfort and ride. What more can I say?
 

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Go by your own feelings and opinions, nobody else's - but base them on something. To me, a review is simply a useful list of pointers as to what to look for. How much those things matter to me is my judgment and mine alone, for better or worse.
 

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A lot of people turn to car magazines to read motoring journalists car reviews and I suspect that those vehicles are provided with an expectation from the manufacturer that the journalist/reviewer is going to write a reasonable car review, if it's a rubbish review then . . . who knows.My opinion is if you are going to read a car magazine for some help, advice, guidance then read actual car owners opinions/reviews, I found the Auto Express Driver Power Survey results really useful and helpful as they reflect car owners views and not motoring journalist opinions who have probably only spent a short time in any vehicle.
 

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I think mark-essex has offered really good advice. Owners, not professional journalists, are the people whose opinions should be listened to. I can only say that my own Kuga continues to impress and delight at 3 months and 3000 miles. I have absolutely no regrets about ordering it and no alarm bells ringing.

Of course there are owners who have had problems and who have reported them on this site. I used to own a Porsche and I can assure you the owners club web site had plenty of equivalent problem stories by owners but also lots of enthusiastic reviews by very happy owners.
 

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I have been in the Italian Kuga forum till 2 months ago. One day I wrote a not-so-nice review focused on the Sync3 usability (usability evaluation is my research branch). I received a direct attack from a couple of people, yelling at my going against what Quattroruote (most famous Italian magazine about cars) tells about the Sync3. No way to convince them about the flaws I highlighted; no way to make them stop insulting me. Result? I am here with all of you. Never been in the Italian forum since then. ˜ƒ
 

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Love mine one of the best cars I have owned, had one or two problems with the DPF but then I put it down to the joys of owning a Mk1 Kuga.
 

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Hi Highlander

Take note of reviews but work out what the key things are you need/want from a car and test drive as many of the potential options as possible to make your own judgement (this is the second biggest personal investment after a house that most of us will make so don't do it relying on what others think). I tend to buy year old cars and keep them a while but I bought my Kuga 6 weeks ago. Cars I drove (and rejected) included Vauxhall Mokka; FIAT 500X; Hond CRV; Toyota RAV; Mazda CX5; VW Tiguan; Peugot 3008; Mercedes B class as well as various Mitsibushis, Kias, and Suzukis. I could not find anyone with a SEAT for me to test, the Renault/Nissan family offered no atomatic with AWD, and Audi and Volvo asked stupid prices and high mileage for equivalent equipment. I did like the Toyota CHR but that is a brand new model so few used examples are available and it was outside my budget.

I was a bit extreme this time (perhaps my wish list was quite prescriptive) so I am not suggesting you test that many (and your requirements will give different results to mine so I am not saying the Kuga is better than all those other makes - rather it best matched what I was looking for).

Good luck in your car hunting.


Edited by: Oldboy
 

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I like my Kuga, Ruby Red Titanium X Sport Ecoboost.

BUT Some Ford dealers in North Essex leave something to be desired. My Kuga had a flat battery. Dash cam left on for 3 days, my fault however it would be nice if the 12 supplies turned off with the ignition.

Called AA they came and jumped the car and all seemed well, UNTIL the following morning when the Bluetooth stopped working then the Radio and CD did not work properly.

As I was driving to my sisters in Chelmsford I carried on and phoned the breakdown service for advice. They sent a patrol but he could not fix.



My problem was that I was going to France the following morning I was awaiting an important phone call. I tries Ford assistance no help I tried Lookers they needed 7 days to book in, then I tried Allens and they also wanted 7 days before they could look at it. And these dealers tried all their Essex Branches.


I explained that the call I was expecting was from a Hospital but this made no difference.


THEN I phoned Essex Ford and spoke to a proper Technician in the Rayleigh branch. "Oh yes he said that sometimes thesystem spikes when jumped" and he did not understand why the dealers did not offer to fix
.

THE FIX:- Take 10mm spanner undo live on battery leave for 5 mins, reconnect and system will reset.


I then spoke to Richardat Lookers Chelmsford, told him that the Ford Tech said battery reset will fix and take 7 minutes.I drove toLookers and they fixed on the spot, "Scott fixed it


Why did the dealers not know how to fix ????
 

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Yes it makes you wonder why they dont share or understand that even just
clipping the jump lead to the battery can cause problems particularly if
there is a bit of sparking present if the connection isn't made
smartly.

Mind you, automotive modules are supposed to withstand a
transient or spike at least twice the supply voltage without issues but
where there is a coil present that transient can be up to seven times
the supply voltage as its sparks. I guess some car manufacturers will
adopt to meet the minimum specification.

 

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1. Look at your battery in the car, to the right of the battery you will see the negative lead from the battery goes to an earth point on the car, use this bolt to connect any negative lead for jump starting or charging
2. Connect positive lead to slave battery first, then attach the positive lead first to the car battery, then the negative lead to the post on the car
3. When finished IE job done, disconnect negative lead from car battery post first then the positive lead from car battery.
 

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I absolutely love the car, mine is on Motobility, I was going to extend the lease period, but the Dealer is such a piece of work I can't take anymore of their indifference and bull.If I could transfer to another Dealer I'd keep the Kuga, but they are the main one for the area.
I had 3 flat batteries on the trot in the first fortnight, local Ford just told me to call the RAC and stop bothering them. The thrired tome the RAC were sick of it, did a full and thorough check, found no reason for it and told Ford to sort it out. Turned out they'd missed an update when they prepped the car.
Then the aircon went down twice, once after 18 month, then again around 9 months later.
Their response "all new cars do this" followed by There's nothing wrong with the aircon" - it was 32 degrees inside and blowing warm air only. Eventually they reluctantly agreed to regas it, but wanted a £50 backhander to do it. I told them to bog off that's what Motobility charge for. They threw a sulky fit, kept the car for 2 days and told me there was nothing wrong with it - but now the aircon works.
 

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Ford Assist (AA) started mine but when the sync 2 played up they new nothing about a battery reset. As the dealers wanted to book itin, either did not know how to reset or were trying to make a chargeable job.

This is not dissimilar to the Duel Clutch oil change. This little job can cost up to £300. Ford say change oil and filter at the 3 year service. My Kuga will have covered around 25,000 miles at that point however some of you will have covered 50,000 miles while others will have driven the average of 37,500 miles.

The Getrag gearbox is a sealed system therefore the oil change should be based on mileage not time. I seem to have read that the manufacturer recommends the change at 48,000 miles but without paying Ford Tech £1 per minute ???
 

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To minimise the chance of it happening, make sure the where you are going to connect your jump leads are clean, is clean so you have good contacts and when you connect the last negative jump lead, do so smartly, almost jab the jump lead at the terminal to prevent it sparking. If the connections are not clean (I dont mean polished) there is a risk of those sparking as you draw current as you start the car.
And contrary to belief, don't start the car with the donor car engine running.
 

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Trvelman868 said:
Ford Assist (AA) started mine but when the sync 2 played up they new nothing about a battery reset. As the dealers wanted to book itin, either did not know how to reset or were trying to make a chargeable job.

This is not dissimilar to the Duel Clutch oil change. This little job can cost up to £300. Ford say change oil and filter at the 3 year service. My Kuga will have covered around 25,000 miles at that point however some of you will have covered 50,000 miles while others will have driven the average of 37,500 miles.

The Getrag gearbox is a sealed system therefore the oil change should be based on mileage not time. I seem to have read that the manufacturer recommends the change at 48,000 miles but without paying Ford Tech £1 per minute ???
Battery charging and jump starting has loads of misconceptions and foibles attached to it.

Having worked the past 5 years in the production of some significant electronic devices for the Hybrid vehicle market, particularly Commercial to HGV and Public transport (our devices are on all the NBFL buses and others in the UK and Europe) I know what it entailed and the cost in meeting the specification of components that operate between 24V and 800V.

The car manufacturer seem to have it easy if they meet the minimum specification, the Hybrid market gave no concession. Oh and a 5 year warranty.


Edited by: Fillco
 
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