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Alarm activating

11K views 23 replies 8 participants last post by  andspenka 
#1 ·
Hi My alarm On Kuga 1.5 (66 PLATE) has gone off in the wee small hours 3 nights in a row. No-one near car and nothing appears to have been tampered with.
Any suggestions/fixes as I ended up leaving the car unlocked from 3AM this morning so my neighbours and myself could get some sleep. I will be booking it into garage on Monday but obviously have Sat and Sunday night yet.
Thanks.
 
#4 ·
My alarm had a similar issue, but only activated on locking the car.

To cut a long story short and after a month of investigation and a visit to the Ford dealership.
It turned out to be a corroded pin 3 on the alarm module. This is the +12V supply from the main battery.
It was a manufacturing defect on the module, as the pin had not been tinned properly, causing the bare copper to corrode and become covered in verdigris (2015 Kuga). No signs of water ingress, even though the module is located in the wheel arch!

It is located in the front wing, above the liner. To access it you will need to remove the wheel, arch trim and inner liner. Not a small feat but do-able with time and patience.

If anyone needs further info, give me a shout.
It was a painful experience as the Ford dealership had it for a week on their diagnostics and couldn’t locate the fault, although they were very polite and professional.

Incidentally there is a 2.4 volt Nickel Metal Hydride battery inside the sealed module. Others have found this to be faulty and the cause of their problem.
Good, used modules can be bought from Ebay for £15. A new one from Ford is about £250.
Make sure you get the correct one as there are about four different models, all made by FoMoCo, France and fitted to a number of different cars - from Aston Martins to Jaguars, Volvo’s, Fords and probably many others.

6752
6753
 
#8 ·
My alarm had a similar issue, but only activated on locking the car.

To cut a long story short and after a month of investigation and a visit to the Ford dealership.
It turned out to be a corroded pin 3 on the alarm module. This is the +12V supply from the main battery.
It was a manufacturing defect on the module, as the pin had not been tinned properly, causing the bare copper to corrode and become covered in verdigris (2015 Kuga). No signs of water ingress, even though the module is located in the wheel arch!

It is located in the front wing, above the liner. To access it you will need to remove the wheel, arch trim and inner liner. Not a small feat but do-able with time and patience.

If anyone needs further info, give me a shout.
It was a painful experience as the Ford dealership had it for a week on their diagnostics and couldn’t locate the fault, although they were very polite and professional.

Incidentally there is a 2.4 volt Nickel Metal Hydride battery inside the sealed module. Others have found this to be faulty and the cause of their problem.
Good, used modules can be bought from Ebay for £15. A new one from Ford is about £250.
Make sure you get the correct one as there are about four different models, all made by FoMoCo, France and fitted to a number of different cars - from Aston Martins to Jaguars, Volvo’s, Fords and probably many others.

View attachment 6752 View attachment 6753
Hi, Is this the drivers side or passenger side wheel arch? Judging by the picture possibly drivers. Having a similar issue where the siren is intermittently going off ( without horn and lights) so this could well be my issue.
 
#5 ·
@SteveMM15 - that's quite an informative post for a problem that could be a right PITA for some.

The thread you have replied to is 4 years old but the information you have provided would be very helpful for someone else who has a similar problem with the alarm.
 
This post has been deleted
#16 · (Edited)
The fault on mine was due to a fault in the manufacturing process. Pin 3 had not been tinned properly, which culminated in verdigris and a high resistance on the +12v supply. It was obvious once I removed it.
A used replacement cost me £15, I have seen comments suggesting that a new one from Ford is £250 plus labour @ £100 an hour.
Probably two hours work, because removing the outer wheel trim and inner liner is necessary to gain access. I also bought replacement plastic fasteners to re-attach the inner liner, as the originals will more than likely break on removal.

Links below



The xmas tree fasteners are a tight fit. Deform the prongs first with pliers then align the prongs with the diagonal corners of the square hole. It’s a lot of words but obvious when you come to do it. I had to learn by trial and error.
Also make sure you research the fasteners on the wheel trim. Partially remove the inner liner fasteners first and push back the liner, so that you can get access to the wheel trim clips from behind. If you try to force the removal of the trim, it will most likely break.

6890
 
#17 ·
The fault on mine was due to a fault in the manufacturing process. Pin 3 had not been tinned properly, which culminated in verdigris and a high resistance on the +12v supply. It was obvious once I removed it.
Perhaps the waterproof electrical plug failed and let some moisture in?

I bought a used siren on Ebay (from Lithuania) and it fitted no problems. There are a lot of similar part numbers for the same siren - as previously mentioned. Plus them being used on Land Rovers, Jaguars etc.

Those white plastic trim clips are shocking. I think I found the best way to release them was to pull the trim up and outwards firmly at the same time.
 
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