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Yep sounds familiar, his was constantly in limp home mode.

He paid for "chemical cleaning" etc which lasted a month or two then it was back to it's old ways again.

I doubt he'll ever consider another Mazda.

I suppose it's the same as Fords Powershift debacle, we've been a Ford family for 20 years but very much doubt our next car will be one.
 

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To be honest after my car visited a Mazda dealer in Austria the dpf was fine for a good 18 months. The Austrian mechanic was a proper mechanic and knew his stuff. Definitely not a technician who could use a laptop. He showed me some corrosion on one of the multi connectors to keep an eye on. He knew about the wire trick discussed in the Mazda forums to force regenerate without IDS or forscan. Yes forscan works on some Mazda as well. I didn't know that at the time. He told me to make sure I had my valve clearances checked. Yes they are very old style on that engine. He even put an endoscope in my engine and said it was in very good condition.

The problem with my Mazda before then is you could do two or three hundred miles on the motorway, pull in at a services for 30 minutes and then as soon as you drive out the dpf light would come on. At least after the ECU update in Austria I could hold the car in third at 2500 revs and it would regenerate and the light would go off. The next time I saw the dpf light came on and it wouldn't regenerate was bout 18 months later doing 70 on the A1. Light came on, dropped it to 4th and then it's flashing closely followed by eml. By this time I now had forscan, elm 327 and Delphi DS150 and a laptop with me on my journey. I couldn't get the car to regenerate. It would start it's cycle and cut off after about 30 seconds. I took it to a garage who promised me if he couldn't fix it, he wouldn't charge me as he had some fancy diagnostics machine on demo. He couldn't fix it and said it could be either the oxygen or CO2 sensor. It's the one that's in the bulkhead in the engine bay and not the one on the dpf. He was right as the guy who performed surgery on the car had trouble doing the remap due to the faulty sensor. He wrote it out in the end which sorted the eml and limp mode. No issues after that and no need to use low ash oil. Car smelled though which I didn't like and it still passed mot after May 2018. I had sold it before then though.
 

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I have a remap and forget to use it, it’s called “sports mode”
D drive suits me but sometimes I can press pedal A and it seems to lag and if you press too much it “kicks down” the box and screams it’s doo dahs off
Pedal A is transformed in sports mode to “blitz” mode, “ come on daddy give me some go go juice and let’s get rock and rolling”. It really does transform the engine response.

No extra cost just the flick of the gear shift.

Everyone to their own tho.
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
I have a remap and forget to use it, it’s called “sports mode”
D drive suits me but sometimes I can press pedal A and it seems to lag and if you press too much it “kicks down” the box and screams it’s doo dahs off
Pedal A is transformed in sports mode to “blitz” mode, “ come on daddy give me some go go juice and let’s get rock and rolling”. It really does transform the engine response.

No extra cost just the flick of the gear shift.

Everyone to their own tho.
Yup... not exactly the same as adding REAL extra power to the engine itself... each to his own indeed.
 

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I have a remap and forget to use it, it’s called “sports mode”
D drive suits me but sometimes I can press pedal A and it seems to lag and if you press too much it “kicks down” the box and screams it’s doo dahs off
Pedal A is transformed in sports mode to “blitz” mode, “ come on daddy give me some go go juice and let’s get rock and rolling”. It really does transform the engine response.

No extra cost just the flick of the gear shift.

Everyone to their own tho.
He doesn't have what you have though as he bought a petrol Kuga. I think I would be looking for a similar option if I had bought that engine as I was put off by someone I know who works at ford. He said if you have been driving diesels you won't like the way you have to work the engine to make it go. I assume he was talking about the 150bhp model. I like the low down grunt you get with a diesel. The wife though has a petrol 1.4 turbo Mokka and that is quite nippy with its 150bhp engine but it's carrying 300 kgs less.
 

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I have a remap and forget to use it, it’s called “sports mode”
D drive suits me but sometimes I can press pedal A and it seems to lag and if you press too much it “kicks down” the box and screams it’s doo dahs off
Pedal A is transformed in sports mode to “blitz” mode, “ come on daddy give me some go go juice and let’s get rock and rolling”. It really does transform the engine response.

No extra cost just the flick of the gear shift.

Everyone to their own tho.
I also am very happy with right foot enabled "boost", see's off anything else I have come across !

Kickdown & turbo boost.... no need to exit "D" Drive

Though if do see a potential event, manual select lower gear in "S" mode, then as above.

And of course, AWD helps with the grip.
 
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