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Discussion Starter #1
I wonder if anyone can help with this one.

I got mine a few months ago. It's an automatic transmition one, the mid-level one.

The AT petrol models come in 3 variants - 120HP and 150HP torque-converter and 182HP dual-clutch "PowerShift", only available with 4X4.

I've opted for a 150HP torque-converter, as I live in urban area and never go off-road, so I just couldn't justify the premium required for a 4X4 and stronger engine. Also, the DSG-type automatic is known to have a lot of issues.

So, anyway - my Q - I'd want to swap the ECU software for a more powerful one found on the 182HP model. So, not an after-market, "street-sport" over-the-top tuning, but the Ford's own higher performance ROM.

Any suggestions?
 

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This is the process proposed by the guys who have developed the UCDS, but unfortunatelly, it's neither easy, nor straight-forward (or guaranteed, for that matter). You have to find a 180HP PCM from a Kuga with a manufacturing date very near to your own Kuga, download the PCM from that and upload it to your own Kuga. In the process, assuming you haven't fried or bricked your ECU, you will get the uprated performance, but probably with side-effects on some of your Kuga's subsystems, and placing your warranty in jeopardy.

I've tried to ascertain whether this process will work on my Kuga (I was considering doing the same, from 150 to 180HP), but the answers I got from the UCDS guys (and forum) were incomplete, uncertain and not very reassuring at all. So, if and when I decide to remap my Kuga, I'll just do what I did to my Fiesta: get a Bluefin (or a Box from Puma) and do this job properly ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This is the process proposed by the guys who have developed the UCDS, but unfortunatelly, it's neither easy, nor straight-forward (or guaranteed, for that matter). You have to find a 180HP PCM from a Kuga with a manufacturing date very near to your own Kuga, download the PCM from that and upload it to your own Kuga. In the process, assuming you haven't fried or bricked your ECU, you will get the uprated performance, but probably with side-effects on some of your Kuga's subsystems, and placing your warranty in jeopardy.

I've tried to ascertain whether this process will work on my Kuga (I was considering doing the same, from 150 to 180HP), but the answers I got from the UCDS guys (and forum) were incomplete, uncertain and not very reassuring at all. So, if and when I decide to remap my Kuga, I'll just do what I did to my Fiesta: get a Bluefin (or a Box from Puma) and do this job properly ;)
Hey thanks for that Ace!

As a matter of fact, I was looking at Bluefin, but then they are too expensive for what they do.

I simply don't buy into their marketing pitch that they will program each ECU based on the readings from the Bluefin. This is b/s... as all these are mass-produced cars, so each generation has the exact same IDENTICAL software installed, so all they do is put another exact same ROM (albeit more powerful). I don't buy this thing that they individually develop code for each one. After all, all they do is optimize (increase) the flow of air and fuel mixture and increase the pressure on the turbo. It's not a rocket science. They bump the figures 20-25% up and that's that...

Off course, I might be wrong...
 

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Actually the Bluefin process is almost immediate, assuming they already have your model's PCM in their database: as soon as the device uploads your PCM, their system replies with the uprated PCM tied to your VIN. So like you say, you are getting a "canned" pre-programmed remap, nothing customised or tailored specifically to your needs*. However, this remap has been tested on dozens or even hundreds of similar cars/engines, so (a) it has been thoroughly tested, and (b) it does backup its claims with verified real-world results.

It's not just a matter of increased boost levels, they alter both closed and open loop maps, take care of the little details like gear-related torque-limiters, smooth out possible drops or spikes, and generally you get a remap which could be considered an upgraded, higher-performance stock top-tier map (i.e. for the Fiesta, Rica, Puma and Superchips Stage1 remaps can be regarded as upgraded remaps to the 140HP stock version)

*edit: however, should you run into any problems, you do get full support and tailor-made remaps, I've seen and verified this with Puma, Rica and Superchips on many Fords owned by friends and associates.
 

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This is the process proposed by the guys who have developed the UCDS, but unfortunatelly, it's neither easy, nor straight-forward (or guaranteed, for that matter). You have to find a 180HP PCM from a Kuga with a manufacturing date very near to your own Kuga, download the PCM from that and upload it to your own Kuga. In the process, assuming you haven't fried or bricked your ECU, you will get the uprated performance, but probably with side-effects on some of your Kuga's subsystems, and placing your warranty in jeopardy.

I've tried to ascertain whether this process will work on my Kuga (I was considering doing the same, from 150 to 180HP), but the answers I got from the UCDS guys (and forum) were incomplete, uncertain and not very reassuring at all. So, if and when I decide to remap my Kuga, I'll just do what I did to my Fiesta: get a Bluefin (or a Box from Puma) and do this job properly ;)
That's just a recipe for a bricked ECU and a hefty repair bill imho!.

Plus any warranty work related to the engine will be thrown out by Ford, as soon as the hook your car up to their diagnostics..

Each calibration has it's own stamp.
 

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I just think asking 180 bhp from a 3 cylinder 1.5 litre engine pushing 1.7 tons is just asking for trouble.
There is absolutely no reason why it would be asking for trouble. Afterall, the 1.5EB comes with 180HP in stock trim. Also the weight of the vehicle has nothing to do with whether the engine can safely output 150 or 180 or even more HP.

Asking for trouble would be going beyond the stock fuel pump's or fuel injectors' or any one component's safe operational margins, such as exceeding the pump's max flow rate or the injectors' max duty cycle, while trying to produce more torque or more HP. Also trying to be more aggresive with the timing maps while hunting for more HP in the upper rpm range.
 

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All depends on how long you want to keep the car. Lots of power developed from revs with a small engine pushing a big load. Not really a recipe for long term reliability. Years ago when I was in transport we bought a small engine truck that put out the same bhp as the bigger engines. It still did the same work, pulling the same weight. Worst decision we ever made. Bought it brand new and sold it at 3 years old. Cost us a fortune in year 2 and 3. Fine when they are new. If you still have yours when it's 10 years old and you still on the same turbo, valves etc then I will take it back.
 

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Hey thanks for that Ace!

As a matter of fact, I was looking at Bluefin, but then they are too expensive for what they do.

I simply don't buy into their marketing pitch that they will program each ECU based on the readings from the Bluefin. This is b/s... as all these are mass-produced cars, so each generation has the exact same IDENTICAL software installed, so all they do is put another exact same ROM (albeit more powerful). I don't buy this thing that they individually develop code for each one. After all, all they do is optimize (increase) the flow of air and fuel mixture and increase the pressure on the turbo. It's not a rocket science. They bump the figures 20-25% up and that's that...

Off course, I might be wrong...
As ace said there is more tuning a modern day car than just cranking the boost and fuel trims up. You get what you pay for and you will get a quality map with Bluefin that works. Yes they cost a bit of money but you get what you pay for. People fit thise cheap ebay chips but you risk damaging your engine and voiding any warranty you may have. I have mapped all my previos cars with Bluefin and never had an issue or complaint about the product or price.
 

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As ace said there is more tuning a modern day car than just cranking the boost and fuel trims up. You get what you pay for and you will get a quality map with Bluefin that works. Yes they cost a bit of money but you get what you pay for. People fit thise cheap ebay chips but you risk damaging your engine and voiding any warranty you may have. I have mapped all my previos cars with Bluefin and never had an issue or complaint about the product or price.
 

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The AT petrol models come in 3 variants - 120HP and 150HP torque-converter and 182HP dual-clutch "PowerShift", only available with 4X4.

I've opted for a 150HP torque-converter, as I live in urban area and never go off-road, so I just couldn't justify the premium required for a 4X4 and stronger engine. Also, the DSG-type automatic is known to have a lot of issues.
I think you'll find all the petrol automatic transmissions are the 6F35 torque converter auto. There isn't a PowerShift (DSG) with the petrol engines AFAIK. Even the more powerful petrol 2.0l EcoBoost (178kW) engine we get in Australia has the 6F35.

I know of one person in the USA (2.0l EcoBoost/ 6F35) who has been playing around with the 6F35 auto settings. He found it was torque limiting in the lower gears and changed some of those values. IIRC he said he gained around 1 second in 0-100km/h times with no engine tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think you'll find all the petrol automatic transmissions are the 6F35 torque converter auto. There isn't a PowerShift (DSG) with the petrol engines AFAIK. Even the more powerful petrol 2.0l EcoBoost (178kW) engine we get in Australia has the 6F35.

I know of one person in the USA (2.0l EcoBoost/ 6F35) who has been playing around with the 6F35 auto settings. He found it was torque limiting in the lower gears and changed some of those values. IIRC he said he gained around 1 second in 0-100km/h times with no engine tuning.
Yup, which is exactly what I'm experiencing - lack of power / not enough torque in low gears / speed... hence the original Q.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I think you'll find all the petrol automatic transmissions are the 6F35 torque converter auto. There isn't a PowerShift (DSG) with the petrol engines AFAIK. Even the more powerful petrol 2.0l EcoBoost (178kW) engine we get in Australia has the 6F35.

I know of one person in the USA (2.0l EcoBoost/ 6F35) who has been playing around with the 6F35 auto settings. He found it was torque limiting in the lower gears and changed some of those values. IIRC he said he gained around 1 second in 0-100km/h times with no engine tuning.
You're right, all petrol automatic gearboxes are 6F35s, manufactured in France (for the EU market).

So yes, as mentioned, mine is the "middle-of-the-road" powered engine with its modest 150HP, whereby the top-tier 1.5 EcoBoost is tuned to 182HP (there's also a 120HP version, with manual gear-box only).

So, I want to bump up my 150HP 6F35 auto to that 182HP ideally.

If that can't be done, that is...
 

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It's 4 cylinder.
So it is. I stand corrected. At least for now. It is rumoured the escape will have a 1.5 three pot engine next year. I still stand by my other comments though with small capacity high performance engines dragging a big load. I suppose that's because I don't buy my cars new so long term reliability is key.
 

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So it is. I stand corrected. At least for now. It is rumoured the escape will have a 1.5 three pot engine next year. I still stand by my other comments though with small capacity high performance engines dragging a big load. I suppose that's because I don't buy my cars new so long term reliability is key.
Well this one is a new one and its performance is limited solely by software, as mentioned above.

The 3 engines and also attached gearboxes are otherwise IDENTICAL in all parts.

So, all I was hopping for was to get the Ford's original MOD with higher performance settings.

Since that doesn't seem possible, I'm now looking into these tried and tested custom tunes, such as Superchips/Bluefin.

BTW, my driving style is relaxed, I very seldom push the right pedal till the end. Essentially, I rarely go above 3000rpm... so, my reason for tuning the car is more for agility at lower speeds and perhaps a tad bit lower fuel consumption.
 

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Indeed the three power levels are identical, hardware-wise, it's just the PCM that's different. However, like I mentioned before, the process via UCDS did not convince me in the slightest, not to mention the possible problems that I saw other members having after force-flashing different PCMs, so I passed.

Another thing: the 120HP version is indeed a bit stiffled, but the 150 and 180HP versions are identical up to about 2400-2600rpm. So if you are looking for low-end grunt, you wouldn't get it by flashing the 180HP PCM. The 180HP PCM just lets the turbo spool more freely in higher rpms, thus having the same maximum torque, but beefier curves at the last third of the rpm range, resulting in the higher HP figure.

Since the low end power output of the engine is mainly dictated by the physical/hardware characteristics of the engine and the turbo, you won't get a decent increase even with a Stage1 remap, as you can see from the Superchips, Puma and Rica graphs, Stage1 for the 1.5EB is almost identical up to 2000rpm, and you can really see (and feel) the difference above 2500rpm. The huge difference comes after 3000rpm, all the way up to the limiter. So if you are only using the first third of the rpm range, you'll hardly notice any differences worth mentioning to your pals in the office or in the pub ;)

You will probably see lower fuel consumption and higher mpg figures, since the remaps usually lean out the target AFR of the closed loop map by about 5-8%, so you'll likely see correspondingly lower fuel consumption (on average)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Indeed the three power levels are identical, hardware-wise, it's just the PCM that's different. However, like I mentioned before, the process via UCDS did not convince me in the slightest, not to mention the possible problems that I saw other members having after force-flashing different PCMs, so I passed.

Another thing: the 120HP version is indeed a bit stiffled, but the 150 and 180HP versions are identical up to about 2400-2600rpm. So if you are looking for low-end grunt, you wouldn't get it by flashing the 180HP PCM. The 180HP PCM just lets the turbo spool more freely in higher rpms, thus having the same maximum torque, but beefier curves at the last third of the rpm range, resulting in the higher HP figure.

Since the low end power output of the engine is mainly dictated by the physical/hardware characteristics of the engine and the turbo, you won't get a decent increase even with a Stage1 remap, as you can see from the Superchips, Puma and Rica graphs, Stage1 for the 1.5EB is almost identical up to 2000rpm, and you can really see (and feel) the difference above 2500rpm. The huge difference comes after 3000rpm, all the way up to the limiter. So if you are only using the first third of the rpm range, you'll hardly notice any differences worth mentioning to your pals in the office or in the pub ;)

You will probably see lower fuel consumption and higher mpg figures, since the remaps usually lean out the target AFR of the closed loop map by about 5-8%, so you'll likely see correspondingly lower fuel consumption (on average)
Indeed, as per Bluefin website:

150: https://www.mybluefin.co.uk/search?make=9&fueltype=3&model=450&variant=3437
182: https://www.mybluefin.co.uk/search?make=9&model=450&fueltype=3&variant=3434

The Nm is identical @ 240 for both.

Yup, the graphs support your claim :). The 5% less fuel over - let say 5-6 years I'll be driving this car - is substantial. That alone would be enough for me to Stage1 remap the ECU.

I emailed Superchips, let's see what they'll say.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Indeed the three power levels are identical, hardware-wise, it's just the PCM that's different. However, like I mentioned before, the process via UCDS did not convince me in the slightest, not to mention the possible problems that I saw other members having after force-flashing different PCMs, so I passed.

Another thing: the 120HP version is indeed a bit stiffled, but the 150 and 180HP versions are identical up to about 2400-2600rpm. So if you are looking for low-end grunt, you wouldn't get it by flashing the 180HP PCM. The 180HP PCM just lets the turbo spool more freely in higher rpms, thus having the same maximum torque, but beefier curves at the last third of the rpm range, resulting in the higher HP figure.

Since the low end power output of the engine is mainly dictated by the physical/hardware characteristics of the engine and the turbo, you won't get a decent increase even with a Stage1 remap, as you can see from the Superchips, Puma and Rica graphs, Stage1 for the 1.5EB is almost identical up to 2000rpm, and you can really see (and feel) the difference above 2500rpm. The huge difference comes after 3000rpm, all the way up to the limiter. So if you are only using the first third of the rpm range, you'll hardly notice any differences worth mentioning to your pals in the office or in the pub ;)

You will probably see lower fuel consumption and higher mpg figures, since the remaps usually lean out the target AFR of the closed loop map by about 5-8%, so you'll likely see correspondingly lower fuel consumption (on average)
What I don't really get is the following - if you look carefully, you'll see that they quote 47BHP bump for 150 and 25BHP for 182 engine. So, the devil in me asks - if everything is identical, then why not bump the 150 engine all the way up, just like the 180HP one...?? All while the torque increase is identical :unsure:


3184


3185
 

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If you add the BHP, you'll see that both 150 and 180 end up outputing 204BHP (which is the max HP of the dyno plot), so the two remaps are indeed identical ;)
 
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