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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all!

This morning our beloved little (ha!) motor started acting up with random intermitent misfires or sputting when under load.

There doesn't really appear to be a pattern to what it happens. The car idles fine, and when in neutral I can build up the revs slowly and blip the throttle to around 5-6k rpm and it'll be fine. It also appears to be ok when pulling away from a stop in 1st.

After around 5-10mins from setting off (cold start) I was going up a very very slight incline. Trying to accelerate in 3rd and 4th was almost impossible as there was a constant juddering - it helped when I put barely any pressure on the throttle upto 30mph. I pulled over in a lay by and let the car idle for a min to check if it would idle. Pulled away again, and it was fine in the lower gears, but 3rd and 4th it would judder every now and again (not accelerating hard) at random points in the rev range.

On my way home, I took a different route to have longer sustained travel as opposed to 30-50 mix limits. This time there was a steeper incline and I tried to hold the car in the same gear for longer. Again, a gentle rest on the throttle was ok, but any more there'd be random juddering (maybe misfiring) - the judder would be a split second (always has been since earlier on), but it was definately there. I had noticed that it seems to be anything over 2k rpm is when the misfiring (or whatever it is) starts to happen.

When I got into town, I think the issue was starting to be noticable as soon as the clutch pedal was lifted (like when the anti-stall would happen) when in 2nd.

I've got a bluetooth OBD diagnostics tool that I've yet to use, so going to give that a go tomorrow on a little drive.

The car is a 2015 Mk2 Ecoboost 2wd with 20k miles. It's had a service in the last 2-3 weeks, and a week ago it had the front tyres and brake pads replaced. Not sure if any of those relate to the issues, but thought it's worth mentioning.

I had an oil pressure valve (pretty sure it was that) replaced a couple of years ago, but when that happend there was a warning on the dash and the car was in limp mode. There's no warning on the dash this time.
 

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2016 Kuga Titanium 2.0l EcoBoost
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Try scanning for logged codes with ForScan. You may need to get a better OBD2 interface as Ford uses a non standard Medium Speed CAN Bus protocol for some systems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Turns out the OBD device I have is either faulty (this the first time I’ve used it since getting it years ago), or just doesn’t work with the car. It sat on a solid red light the whole time it was plugged in, and wouldn’t show up as a device on my phone.

I went to start the car this morning to check the OBD readings (or try to), and it was mildly lumpy when idle. I gave a few revs and it settled, but got lumpy again.

Took it for a drive around the block and it was very juddery if pulling away at an average pace - had to really crawl along to gain speed without any juddering. It’s also now doing it in reverse (didn’t yesterday). Still think it’s fuel or ignition related. I had the bonnet up this afternoon and there was a slight clicky noise to the right of the of the engine - I’m guessing it’s the coil pack as the HT leads were going back to it.
 

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2016 Kuga Titanium 2.0l EcoBoost
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Has it been using any coolant?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I haven't checked since the service, but will try to look tomorrow. If coolant was running low, would it not be running hotter than usual? Running temperature is still normal.

From what I've read regarding coil packs, HT leads, and spark plugs - it sounds very similar to one (or more) of those that could be at fault.
 

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2016 Kuga Titanium 2.0l EcoBoost
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If coolant was running low, would it not be running hotter than usual?
It depends how low it has dropped. There can be issues with the 1.5l 4cyl EcoBoost "using" coolant due to head gasket failure. It causes rough running- usually when starting the engine.

Given you've got a manual transmission it sort of limits the fault to something to do with the engine.
 

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2013 Titanium X with 2017 Powershift Conversion.
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I'd be changing the plugs, inspecting the coil packs for cracks/ damage first off.

Make sure all the coils have good connection to the plugs.

If you get a decent diagnostic tool (FORScan with an ELM adapter would be fine). You may be able to narrow it down to one cylinder.

At that point swap the coils around from the missfiring cylinder and see if the fault follows the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've taken the car to the garage this morning. I checked under the bonet before starting the car up (long story short - any more than 1 car visits us has to be parked 10-15mins away in the nearest non double yellowed parts of a road) and saw the coolant was pretty high (car was parked facing downhill). I checked all the connectors that I could get to (without removing the top cover), giving them a little push to make sure they were securely in. Not nocticed before, but there's a lot of tape wrapped around various cabling in the engine bay, often near sensors where you can see the coloured wire sheath/case.

The car has been sat in the same place since Thursday and not driven at all. Starting it this morning it was still lumpy on idle, but this time the EML was on and stayed on throughout the drive to the garage - the garage isn't far enough for the engine to have warmed up. There were no messages on the dash, and I checked in the messages menu. Didn't notice any leaks of any sorts when I got to the car either. When accelerating, anything more than slight pressure seems to make the car jolt and struggle to make any power. This was happening from 1st - 4th and reverse
 

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I've taken the car to the garage this morning. I checked under the bonet before starting the car up (long story short - any more than 1 car visits us has to be parked 10-15mins away in the nearest non double yellowed parts of a road) and saw the coolant was pretty high (car was parked facing downhill). I checked all the connectors that I could get to (without removing the top cover), giving them a little push to make sure they were securely in. Not nocticed before, but there's a lot of tape wrapped around various cabling in the engine bay, often near sensors where you can see the coloured wire sheath/case.

The car has been sat in the same place since Thursday and not driven at all. Starting it this morning it was still lumpy on idle, but this time the EML was on and stayed on throughout the drive to the garage - the garage isn't far enough for the engine to have warmed up. There were no messages on the dash, and I checked in the messages menu. Didn't notice any leaks of any sorts when I got to the car either. When accelerating, anything more than slight pressure seems to make the car jolt and struggle to make any power. This was happening from 1st - 4th and reverse
If you have the EML on there will be codes for the garage to read
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you have the EML on there will be codes for the garage to read
That's what I was hoping for. Before the EML came on, I was wondering how to explain as much detail as possible to the garage.
Do wonder if there is a faulty sensor or something that I had pushed/wiggled back into place which is now being picked up as an issue. The EML definately wasn't on before this morning.

Forgot to mention the EML is amber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Spoke too soon (if thats even a thing at over 3 months ago).

The issues has returned with some slight differences. On Saturday the wife went to collec the food shop and I guess when the car had warmed up it was starting to run lumpy under load, but only in 3rd and higher. She found a safe place to pull over then tried to move off again after updating me, but this time it was just as bad in 1st and 2nd then got to idling lumpy. Wife turned round and came home.

I took the car out later that day, but took some quiet roads in case anything happened. The car was fine. Nothing wrong at all. Took it for a good run.

This afternoon, I went to try the car again thinking that the issue is only on cold start and it has returned. Even at idle, the car isn't running right. This time there is a ticking noise coming from underneath the engine bay whenever any pressure is applied to the accelerator. It stops as soon as I lift off no matter the revs. I had the bonet up, and it doesn't sound like its coming from the top of the engine. This ticking/tapping noise doesn't always happen either. At idle the engine itself sounds normal, but if sat in the car then you can feel its not running right. The revs appear to be stable at idle if that means anything.

Have called the garage who looked at it last year and they're taking it in today. There's no EML yet, but last time that didn't appear until the day I took the car in.
 

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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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Ticking under load could be a manifold leak but only guessing. Garage will need to look at it.
Or perhaps just a loose spark plug.

@theTechnician - you mention your obd reader was faulty in an earlier post. Did you replace it. If not then get yourself a decent ELM327. One by OHP or Proscan or better still buy an OBDlink EX if you are going to have a ford for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Or perhaps just a loose spark plug.

@theTechnician - you mention your obd reader was faulty in an earlier post. Did you replace it. If not then get yourself a decent ELM327. One by OHP or Proscan or better still buy an OBDlink EX if you are going to have a ford for a while.
I'll have a look for those, thanks. I've had Fords most of my life (carried on from my dad).
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update:
Garage called to say the plugs had failed again, so they had a further look and the plugs had what they think to be cooland on them. So it's sounding like there's an internal leak somewhere.

I'm waiting to hear back from the dealership I got the car from as they added some extra warranty bits on.

Goind to be an expensive repair I imagine.
 

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Is the garage paying. I thought I read somewhere that ford are to cover repairs to the 1.5 petrol engine due to their unreliability related to the coolant loss issue.
 

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Garage called to say the plugs had failed again, so they had a further look and the plugs had what they think to be cooland on them. So it's sounding like there's an internal leak somewhere.
:( That's been happening a lot in the US (and there are a few people who have posted on here about coolant loss with the 1.5l but Ford UK are ignoring the problem.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Is the garage paying. I thought I read somewhere that ford are to cover repairs to the 1.5 petrol engine due to their unreliability related to the coolant loss issue.
Unfortuneately not - they have spoken to Ford (the garage is also a Ford dealership) and they're not helping either. If you could find that information, it would be very helpful! The garage do sound like they've tried to reach out to Ford for help with the issue and I've spoken to Ford Direct, Ford Protect, and the dealership I got the car from.
 
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