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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I purchased a 2009 kuga 2.0 tdci awd 3 months ago and it has developed a vibration/shudder under hard acceleration in 6th gear between 60-70 mph it doesnt do it if you accelerate gently. I can only describe it as the same sort if noise as if you are driving over rumble strips on the motorway. Garage have replaced both front driveshafts,front wheel bearings,n,s,r wheel bearing,wheels changed front to rear,prop bearings,rear diff rebuilt and haldex oil and filter under warranty and it's still doing it! I had the car remapped and egr deleted when I bought it. Anyone have a clue as to what might be causing this please?
 

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Have you tried swapping wheels, front to back or include the spare on the swaps to see if you have a tyre 'out of round'
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm thinking air leak after reading your post about that throttle body gasket. Did you ever get one sorted ? It didn't do it straight after the remap it came on after a few weeks maybe the extra boost has finished that gasket off ? I've been a mechanic for 30 years but I thought I would let them sort it under warranty they've had it 7 weeks now. Hopefully getting it back tomorrow with a bit of a refund .
 

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I'm still in a quandary with mine. I initially replaced the gasket with a liquid RTV gasket, and it seemed to do the trick....for a few days before the gasket blew out due to pressure.
I have hunted high and low for either an OEM or AM replacement seal but to no avail. The engine was used in various other 2.0 tcdi cars of that era, and I had hoped that the TB was one of those parts that came pre-attached, so I bought a seal for a Citroen C5. This seal was too big, so I cut it down and sealed it as best I could.

So either, I haven't done a good enough job to make it airtight, OR I have, and I have another issue. Ford want £455 for a new TB, AM is £140; cheaper, but still a big expense if this part isn't at fault any more.

OP mentioned about a mostly full drive line swap not fixing it... that gives me some hope as the situation sounds similar. I have new engine mounts ready to go in, just waiting for a 1/2 decent day up here. If the engine mounts don't solve the issue, then I might have to bite the bullet and buy an AM TB.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Have you tried swapping wheels, front to back or include the spare on the swaps to see if you have a tyre 'out of round'
Yea swapped wheels around and run it with the prop shaft removed and still bloody there ?
 

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I will update (regardless of the outcome) this weekend if I manage to get the new engine mounts fitted. Regardless of the result, it's one thing off the tick list of possible issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That would be great if you could I'm going to look at that air leak as soon as I get the car back from these clowns ? just put of interest has yours been remapped ?
I will update (regardless of the outcome) this weekend if I manage to get the new engine mounts fitted. Regardless of the result, it's one thing off the tick list of possible issues.
 

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That would be great if you could I'm going to look at that air leak as soon as I get the car back from these clowns ? just put of interest has yours been remapped ?
Nah stock mapping; doesn't necessarily mean that you can rule out the map.

Will keep you posted.

As an aside, I noticed that my TB seal had gone due to there being oil residue on the underside of the TB (typical oil build up from turbo/egr) and when I removed the TB, the seal was black with oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #10

  1. Nah stock mapping; doesn't necessarily mean that you can rule out the map.

    Will keep you posted.

    As an aside, I noticed that my TB seal had gone due to there being oil residue on the underside of the TB (typical oil build up from turbo/egr) and when I removed the TB, the seal was black with oil.
    I
    Nah stock mapping; doesn't necessarily mean that you can rule out the map.

    Will keep you posted.

    As an aside, I noticed that my TB seal had gone due to there being oil residue on the underside of the TB (typical oil build up from turbo/egr) and when I removed the TB, the seal was black with oil.
 

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So today I decided to kiss the situation....yup.... Keep It Simple, Stupid =D. Suspected TB to intake seal leak (see above for attempted remedies). I wrapped the flange joint in duct tape to see if that made any difference. Wee jaunt up the motorway later; car felt nippier (wasn't sure if that was just in my head since I was hoping for a change), also, the miles left in the tank had jumped up around 20 or so extra. So when I got home, I scanned the car for any DTCs that didn't turn on the MIL (previous experience on this very issue) aaaannnndd......boost pressure exceeded known limit. Perfect! Duct tape sealed the leak, allowing full turbo airflow, and upsetting the ecu learned values at the same time. Bad news; vibrations are still there. Poked around the engine mounts, which are on my list of things to do this weekend, and I think (correct me if I'm wrong) they are hydro-filled mounts.... the rubber on my RHS mount is cracked and all saggy. This is pushing me towards the mount being the source of the vibrations.

TL DR - Throttle body knackered - not source of vibrations. Engine mounts all cracked and sagging; still to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I
Nah stock mapping; doesn't necessarily mean that you can rule out the map.

Will keep you posted.

As an aside, I noticed that my TB seal had gone due to there being oil residue on the underside of the TB (typical oil build up from turbo/egr) and when I removed the TB, the seal was black with oil.
I'm still in a quandary with mine. I initially replaced the gasket with a liquid RTV gasket, and it seemed to do the trick....for a few days before the gasket blew out due to pressure.
I have hunted high and low for either an OEM or AM replacement seal but to no avail. The engine was used in various other 2.0 tcdi cars of that era, and I had hoped that the TB was one of those parts that came pre-attached, so I bought a seal for a Citroen C5. This seal was too big, so I cut it down and sealed it as best I could.

So either, I haven't done a good enough job to make it airtight, OR I have, and I have another issue. Ford want £455 for a new TB, AM is £140; cheaper, but still a big expense if this part isn't at fault any more.

OP mentioned about a mostly full drive line swap not fixing it... that gives me some hope as the situation sounds similar. I have new engine mounts ready to go in, just waiting for a 1/2 decent day up here. If the engine mounts don't solve the issue, then I might have to bite the bullet and buy an AM
I am going to have a look at
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That's a shame I was hoping for an easy fix ? Had a phone call from the garage we bought the car off yesterday to say that the vibration had gone they delivered it back today and it seems ok for now but I'm doubtful it will last . Going for a long drive tomorrow to see if I can get it to do it again I will look at the engine mounts tomorrow and hopefully get it on the ramp on monday to have a look myself .
 

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Had a similar matter some years ago and it turned out to be a delaminated tyre or rubber separation on the osr wheel. Had a ne tyre on and all sorted.
 

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Quick update - Fitted a new OS engine mount over the weekend, this has fixed general responsiveness and given the car a livelier feel, however it hasn't sorted the vibrations in question. I have fitted a new throttle body with a new seal today; will update later if this resolves the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I was really hoping the mount was going to cure it? mine is perished and cracked I'm just waiting for the garage I bought it off to supply one for me to fit . I have noticed quite a lot if play in the steering rack inner ball joints aswel so I'm going to replace those,put a set of snow tyres on and get it tracked up to eliminate that from the equation ? Any difference after changing the throttle body ?
 

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Engine starts up and shuts down 100% smoother, car pulls like a beast on a mission, responsiveness is up and fuel economy is up. Think my issues with the TB were both the seal as well as the anti-shudder valve.

The weather is holding out today, I might actually dive under the car and swap out the torque-restrictor (dog-bone) mount.
 

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UPDATE WITH RESULTS!

Finally got around to do some work on the car this weekend. The vibrations are completely gone now.

I was going to replace the intake manifold gaskets as I noticed at least one leak from it. Undone everything, however the wiring loom at the rear left of the intake had it snagged in place, and tucked into the cambelt cover as well, so rather than deal with that (loom was under fuel bulb line) (and a long ass day) I decided this was a job for another day, so I proceeded to tighten up all the bolts and leave it there. Well....I think where the leaks were might actually have been from loose bolts rather than a blown seal as the vibrations mentioned in the first post are completely gone.

The other work I done yesterday
New thermostat - old one in stuck open situation. - Coolant temp behaving itself now.
EGR blanking plate - have a flat spot around 1500-1800 rpm (egr opening range). No flat spot, although that may be attributed to the intake being sealed. One thing to note here too, my EGR doesnt have a gasket (now it does thanks to blanking plate) not sure if this model came fitted with one.

When the vibrations first started many moons ago, my first suspect was EGR so I put a blanking plate in and it done nothing; removed it for last years MOT and never bothered to replace. Will remove it before MOT and see if the flat spot comes back.

TL DR - Resealed intake manifold...vibrations gone
 
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