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Discussion Starter · #181 ·
Second job to be undertaken, I’d heard this belt tensioner making a bit of noise on cold start ups…it disappears after 15seconds or so but still something I wasn’t keen on.

New part found and ordered.

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To take this out, you need to have a T50 torx socket available.. (If you don’t have one of these, do not attempt this job!!). You turn this ANTI CLOCKWISE to release the tension!



To get access to the tensioner retaining bolt, remove these two bolts that are in your way. Gives you enough space to wrestle the tensioner out

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Takes a bit of fiddling to get the belt back on but persevere and it’ll happen.

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Once replaced.. everything buttoned back up and the world is a better place..
 

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Mr. Forgetful
ST-Line Edition 2019 AWD - Petrol - Auto
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That made me laugh :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #183 ·
Last week I'd replaced the two rear tyres on the car, looks like they'd been rubbed along a kerb and the rubber was strating to perish a little... rather than leaving this to chance or get worse... the new rubber went on.
While in at the tyre shop the guy mentioned that the back brakes were looking worn and needing replaced.. These are the original discs from new so a good 9x years old now... some quick shopping online had new rear discs and pads ordered.. as I'd be filthy anyway, I also bought new front pads. (the front discs are only 1000 miles old)..

Fronts were first up, the whole replacement process only took 20mins per side as I'd copper slipped all bolts and sliders the last time I'd changed the discs over... you'll have to ignore the surface rust as the car hadn't been driven in a week!!

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all back togther and the surface rust cleaned off..

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On to the rears and original discs..

These are pretty easy to change over IF and only if, you have a rewind tool for the calipers. you turn both sides CLOCKWISE to wind the calipers back in. Make sure to check your brake fluid reservoir has enough space to hold the fluid that returns as the calipers are wound back, I had to syphon some of this off with my MTB brake bleed kit!

The old and new discs..

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Old and new pads..

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they still had a bit of life left in them but with my MOT due in July, it would probably have bene flagged as an observation...

All fitted and back together.. the rears were probably 40mins for the first side, maybe 25 mins for the other.
Costs were:
  • £50 front pads (Pagid)
  • £60 rear discs inc discount (MTEC disks)
  • £28 rear pads (Mintex)

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Discussion Starter · #184 ·
With the sun now showing in the sky, lots of roads around here are being resurfaced… to my local council, that means tipping tons of small stones onto the road and rather than heat & roller them into position (a proper job), they let cars drive over them until them either embed themselves to the surface, or fly off peppering whatever is in the local vicinity..

One of such projectiles, had hit my front parking sensor!
I knew there was an issue immediately as the parking icon was flashing along with an unmistakable ‘tone’ to highlight the fault.
Sticking the car into ignition position 1 (engine off) and selecting reverse activates the parking sensor function. I went around and pressed my ear against all sensors and listened.. a working sensor clicks.. a bit like a bat does.. so you can tell if it’s working.. low and behold, one of the front parking sensors had nothing.. a quick scour on eBay had the right part identified for £20.
To remove them, the sensor clips underneath the sensor holder, have a look below and you’ll see where.



I gently levered up the catches with a small screwdriver.
Next, you unclip the sensor from the holder which is straightforwards and change them over.



Replacement item is on the top, original sensor is the bottom.

To reassemble, the sensor push fits and clips into position, it only goes in one way so pay attention to how you re-insert it.
This photo is just to illustrate.. DO NOT ASSEMBLE IT LIKE THIS AS YOU THEN NEED TO SEPARATE THEM AGAIN TO FIT TO THE CAR!! ONCE ASSEMBLED, THE COMBINED PARTS ARE TOO BIG TO FIT THROUGH THE GAP.



Instead, reach around underneath with the holder, and feed the wiring back through like this…



It’s then a simple job to clip back into position.


Here’s the damaged sensor face after the stone chip!




Bonus points for getting ‘reach around’ legitimately into a thread!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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2010 Kuga 2.5t auto
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How are you finding the mtec discs. I'm thinking of putting a full set on my 2.5t
 

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Discussion Starter · #186 · (Edited)
How are you finding the mtec discs. I'm thinking of putting a full set on my 2.5t
In all honesty, they've not been a problem for me at all... it all comes down to your own preferences and what's fit for purpose for your driving style.

If you owned a Ford Mustang and did regular track work, then I'd doubt they'd last long... Before buying, I'd seen that a lot of owners (Focus ST / RS) had reported disc warping with MTEC. These are the same guys that report disc warping with Standard BREMBO discs etc... I'd therefore infer that instead of spending £500+ on some floating rotors / bells, they went for the cheaper option (mtec) hoping that It'd somehow magically solve the problem.

For my Kuga, a family car!...They are more than fit for purpose and work just fine with the benefit (thanks to the coatings), of still looking good.
 

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2010 Kuga 2.5t auto
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I did ask on the st owners on FB and you're right, lots do not rate them. My kuga is a family car too and doesn't get thrashed. I see you went for drilled only. Any reason ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #188 ·
I see you went for drilled only. Any reason ?
yeah.... I'm a slave to fashion!!!!! Plus they match my front discs

Honestly for the money, I think the rears were £60.. what do you expect!!! they do the job brilliantly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #189 ·
MOT last week and a FAIL.... for the most unbelievable item.....

Apparently my tyres had been installed incorrectly and had the wrong direction relative to the axle direction...

Gutted and annoyed I went back to the MOT center to have a look... the issue (not fault) was that my Pirelli Scorpion Tyres have "SEAL INSIDE" stamped on the tyre.. Its like a gloopy coating on the inner surface that seals the tyre in the event of a minor puncture....

The MOT tester had assumed this was meant as INSIDE / OUTSIDE as a tyre directional....

FFS....

Needless to say that when I pointed this out, the car passed without issue... just a wasted extra hour or so for the re-test!!!
 

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So he didn't think to look if the other side of the tyre said "Outside"
 
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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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I have Pirelli on mine so will go and see if that is on mine too.
 

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2016 Kuga Titanium 2.0l EcoBoost
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LOL what a joke! That person should feel like a right idiot as a number of manufacturers have that tech in their tyres and it's hardly new.

I have Pirelli on mine so will go and see if that is on mine too.
It seems a bit hit and miss with Pirelli as to which tyres/ sizes have it. I've been eyeing some PZero PZ4 in 235/40R18 for the other car (which has no spare tyre) as they've got "Seal Inside", but it's stock size PZ4 (225/40R18) doesn't have it.
 

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Super Moderator and Mr Grumpy
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Doesn't say it in my Pirelli Scorpion All Seasons.
 

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2016 Kuga Titanium 2.0l EcoBoost
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Made in Taiwan actually.
There's the problem- you need the Romanian made version to get seal inside. (See Martin's previous pic.) It's amazing some of the unexpected countries tyres are made in by the larger manufacturers.
 

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Kuga ST Line X 1.5 Eco 180ps 6 Speed Auto AWD Magnetic
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There's the problem- you need the Romanian made version to get seal inside. (See Martin's previous pic.) It's amazing some of the unexpected countries tyres are made in by the larger manufacturers.
Well spotted @murcod, I wonder if all the recipes are the same when they mix the rubber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #199 ·
Tomorrow brings the yearly oil service plus a new wishbone to be fitted. Normally I’d do this myself but works getting in the way of that fun…
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