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no speedo,abs,tyre press warning

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    Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 1:44pm
Hi all,

2016 kuga titanium, had a blow out and tyre has broken 2 wires off going to a connection on the wheel hub. Would this cause no tyre pressure, abs and traction warnings also speedo not reading so presume its all related. can a replacement wire be bought or would a fix by scotch lock or connectors do the trick.

thanks in advance
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BruceKuga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 3:57pm
Don't know about the wires, but you should not use scotchlocks where mousture will be.    Solder joints insulated in heat shrink i think is best. Maybe the wiring can be replaced from its source, so no joins?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rufus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 4:32pm
that would be the best but for a temp fix it will do, cant be driving with no speedo, just got fittings no so will let you know if it sorts it out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rufus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 5:54pm
so, tyre pressure warning light has now reset gone out

but the speedo is still not working and the ABS and Traction warnings are still showing and hill assist is not available

Any way of resetting these or does it mean the ABS sensor is goosed?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fillco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 7:22pm
Are the wires colour coded or the same colour or identified? If same colour try reversing the cables.

Tyre pressure warning now works because the ABS wires/hub are used as the antenna to poll the tyre pressure sensor in then wheel.

Has a fuse blown for traction control ect for it not to work.

The wires could have pulled from within the hub or broken within the insulation, you should be able to test the sensor with a meter on resistance and should measure quite low resistance.

Watch out soldering as this makes the connection rigid and if the cable flaps about the cable can break where the solder ends. If you put heatshrink on use the type that is adhesive lined to assist sealing from moisture.
Kuga Titanium X Sport 180 Manual(AWD), Magnetic (with a few extras). March 2016.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rufus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 8:48pm
hi they were colour coded yellow and purple so no mixing them up

checked all traction and abs fuses and all intact.

friend who owns a garage thought it could be the abs sensor but cant tell until he does a diagnostic on it

does the abs sensor run the speedo, surely if one works it should be ok or does it need all 4?

does the abs sensor monitor the tyre press sensor as if that has cancelled and now works does that not prove the abs sensor is working ok?

tried depowering car by disconnecting the battery for a few hours but that hasnt cleared it either
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fillco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 9:37pm
I did think they'd be colour coded.
From what I've worked out, the ABS cables provide a near field antennae to transmit and receive to and from the sensor in the wheel, hence you got a malfunction when the wires were broken. I'm surprised that the ABS sensor is used for the speed, but indeed it could be and the fact its not working suggests there is a link between them. You're reconnecting the cable has re-established communication with the TPM sensor, but if there is no continuity through the ABS sensor which is a coil of wire, it will not work of course. As I suggested, you ned to measure the resistance of the sensor by connecting a test meter across the ABS sensor wires. If you believe the wires were tugged, as I also mentioned the actual cable inside may have broken inside the insulation so there is no circuit.


Edited by Fillco - 13 Aug 2017 at 5:33am
Kuga Titanium X Sport 180 Manual(AWD), Magnetic (with a few extras). March 2016.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rufus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2017 at 10:43am
friend checked with diagnostic, abs and traction wont reset, he thinks the broken / remade wire needs to be replaced as it has a break somewhere else or its picking up extra resistance of the connection in the join and throwing up a fault.

He cant understand why the speedos died as he recons it should just take the average of the other wheels to get the speed but fixing the faulty wheel may sort it out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fillco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2017 at 11:40am
Do the wire go to a connector on the hub so you can actually repair/replace.

Not sure the average of all 4 wheels is how its done, but I've mentioned in another post that if you reset your average MPH in the trip computer and then set a speed, via cruise is best, and observe the average speed it reads spot on if you check against a SATNAV. So it reads the speed pretty accurately from somewhere.
Kuga Titanium X Sport 180 Manual(AWD), Magnetic (with a few extras). March 2016.
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wires attach to a connector which then plugs into the sensor on the hub

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fillco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2017 at 12:56pm
Originally posted by rufus rufus wrote:

wires attach to a connector which then plugs into the sensor on the hub



Ideally as I mentioned earlier check sensor for continuity on the hub pins themselves and test continuity from your repair joint to the connector contacts.
Kuga Titanium X Sport 180 Manual(AWD), Magnetic (with a few extras). March 2016.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rufus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2017 at 1:01pm
Reporting back -
Tyre pressure sensor is working fine
Abs sensor was replaced and wiring checked out out

Still have following faults
No speedo reading but Tacho works ok
No hillstart
ABS and Traction warning lights are illuminated
Noticed car is not stop /starting either
Slight delay press engine shutdown buttton and it actually turning off - need to keep finger on button for 2 to 3 seconds
Steering heavy at no to low speeds - no steering codes found
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote murcod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2017 at 2:01pm
Have you got any pictures of where the loom was damaged and what repairs have been done?

Was it a shielded cable or twisted pair that have been rejoined?

Edit: I've just had a read of the 2013 Ford Escape Workshop Manual and it mentions any faults relating to the Stability System require the ABS module to be calibrated (or initialised). This is required for the Stability System to relearn the zero position of the vehicle- it must be done on a level surface with the vehicle not moving. The calibration procedure "IVD Initialisation" is carried out using the Scan Tool.

(I'd paste the original but it's from a locked PDF file. You should be able to do the initialisation using an OBD2 interface and ForScan software.)

It goes on to say the sensors are "magneto - resistive"- one wire supplies the voltage and the other transmits a square wave back to the ABS.


Edited by murcod - 17 Sep 2017 at 2:13pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fillco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2017 at 3:04pm
David how about pasting a screenshot or shots if you can for Rufus.

Are you saying the ABS sensors are Magneto resistive or the stability sensors?

I guess stop start isn't working because there is no speed calculation either.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote murcod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep 2017 at 3:35am
Going by the manual they use the same hub sensors for ABS/ Stability. Yes, manual says they're "Magneto Resistive" instead of the normal Hall Effect type.

(Apparently M-R give high accuracy signals at low wheel revolution speeds, where H-E can't.)

Quite likely- if the parts have all been fixed- it's a case of reinitialising the modules to clear the fault. ForScan can do that.
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