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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fillco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 9:15pm
I seem to remember it did prevent turning over, however MK1 may be different.
Kuga Titanium X Sport 180 Manual(AWD), Magnetic (with a few extras). March 2016.
Makes you want to drive it, though not necessarily buy it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 5:07am
Well we had a drive after collecting the kuga and filled her up with esso supreme+ diesel and also had a drive our for few hrs did a 100mile round trip...

This morning the kuga started up first time so lets hope its sorted.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2017 at 5:09am
What i want to know is what role does the instrument cluster play besides the general info......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phoneman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2017 at 10:50pm
Immobiliser definitely prevents any engine activity on the MK2 as I found out myself after a breakdown
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fillco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2017 at 5:21am
Originally posted by phoneman phoneman wrote:

Immobiliser definitely prevents any engine activity on the MK2 as I found out myself after a breakdown


Indeed and as far as I can remember the PATS on Fords always have, and Ford service should know this this instead of misleading Ant. But back to the facts its always tuned over and always seemed to start but not run on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Login Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug 2017 at 6:50pm
Faulty starter motor?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tractorboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug 2017 at 9:44pm
It fires and then dies so starter is OK.

Bob
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Aug 2017 at 5:07am
We had taken the kuga to an electronics guy who said he will run a diagnistic on the cluster and repair what he can and to leave it with him for 2hrs...

He found something called dry wires and replaced two wires and resoldered anything what was required....
Also the wires in the plug in connector where loose so he as also sorted them out aswell....

He said it may have been contributing to the non starts etc via the immobiliser.....
That was 3 days ago and so far its starting smoothly and first time..

He did say to have any fault codes eraised....

Fingers crossed...

Also if there is any u1900 codes showing its worth having the cluster chkd as it is not always a wiring splice issues and all for £50 its better than paying £100s on something that you may never get to the bottom of......

Edited by Ant - 21 Aug 2017 at 5:08am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fillco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Aug 2017 at 5:17am
Well dry wires is something new to me, where wires have to be replaced but if its cured the problem even though the cause is not known, that has to e step in the right direction. Not sure it quite fits with the original failure to run and the way it so consistently did so. But hey...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Aug 2017 at 10:47am
Originally posted by Fillco Fillco wrote:

Well dry wires is something new to me, where wires have to be replaced but if its cured the problem even though the cause is not known, that has to e step in the right direction. Not sure it quite fits with the original failure to run and the way it so consistently did so. But hey...


I have never heard of the term dry wires etc so we asked our mechanic if he had heard of the term..
And his response was yes it could be a term for loose or faulty wires at solder points or actually in the plug connectors......


GOOGLE SEARCH.
A dry contact can be confused with a dry joint, which is a type of poorlysoldered joint in which the solder failed to wet the metal. These are liable to fail electrically. The term dry joint is also used less precisely to mean any sort of unsatisfactorily soldered joint.

No current: A dry contact is the synonym of volt free - it is not "wetted" by a voltage source. Dry contact can refer to a secondary set of contacts of a relay circuit which does not make or break the primary current being controlled by the relay. Usually some other contacts or devices have the job of starting or stopping the primary current being controlled.


Edited by Ant - 21 Aug 2017 at 10:50am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fillco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Aug 2017 at 12:50pm
Originally posted by Ant Ant wrote:



No current: A dry contact is the synonym of volt free - it is not "wetted" by a voltage source. Dry contact can refer to a secondary set of contacts of a relay circuit which does not make or break the primary current being controlled by the relay. Usually some other contacts or devices have the job of starting or stopping the primary current being controlled.


Ant where have you got this paragraph from, as its not correct. Wet or dry doesn't relate to a voltage being present or not. Wetted usually means mercury wetted to prevent the effect of contact bounce in a relay, the effect being a momentary opening or closing of two contacts so the mercury being conductive maintains a circuit if the contacts bounce open. Tend to use low inertia 'Gold Flashed' contact systems instead of mercury wetted or electronic solid state switching these days. The latter the Kuga makes full use of. No one in the profession would say contacts that have no voltage on them are Dry contacts, they would say 'Volt Free' as its unambiguous.

Its the dry wires that is definitely not a Dry Joint or a Dry contact.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Aug 2017 at 3:01pm
Just something i found on google asking for a dry wire explanation....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phoneman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Aug 2017 at 3:36pm
Dry wire is more commonly known as a dry joint, i.e. bad solder joint
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fillco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Aug 2017 at 6:28pm
Originally posted by phoneman phoneman wrote:

Dry wire is more commonly known as a dry joint, i.e. bad solder joint


Indeed, and that's as clear as it can be.

Dry wire, sounds more like a poorly maintained wire rope on a hoist to me.

As long as the Kuga runs OK thats the goal.


Edited by Fillco - 21 Aug 2017 at 7:24pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2017 at 7:04am
I couldnt agree more......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Livesey4917 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2017 at 12:48pm
I'm sorry to hijack this thread but I'm having trouble starting my kuga 59 reg tdci. It turns over fine no issue, I've changed glow plugs and even the starter motor and am currently trying to source a hand priming pump to check the diesel flow. I've a feeling that the engine is not getting fuel and I disconnected the fuel pipes each side of the filter which I now think was a bad idea. I had someone try starting the engine while not connected and expected there to be fuel coming out of the inlet to the filter pipe but nothing, seemed a bit strange to me. Any advice would be appreciated
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tractorboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2017 at 1:26pm
Rather than hijack this thread (which is tricky to follow already!) you'd be better sticking to your original post where people have responded.  This problem is different to yours; it fires briefly then stops, whereas yours cranks but doesn't fire.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Livesey4917 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2017 at 5:38pm
Sorry Bob I'd had no notification of any replies, I'll head over now thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 4:39pm
Just to statisfy my couriosity i asked the missus to stsrt to kuga so i could watch the fuel line from the filter.....
This is 3 hrs after a trip to town.....

I noticed big amounts of air bubbles in ths fuel line even though the engine started ok...these air bubbles last for about 15 seconds before they cleared.....
The air bubnles and the fuel quickly pushed through the line to the pressure pump......
So do we have something to that points to the sender pump !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hillybilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 5:19pm
You have a leak or leak back air is getting into the fuel line when the engine is stopped fair chance non return valve is the non return valve incorporated in the fuel pump you were talking about now if this was my car I would buy a inline fuel filter with non return valve witch is actualy a non return valve with a fairly large size mesh filter and fit it inline as close to the fuel filter as possible
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