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    Posted: 19 Jun 2017 at 8:04pm
Someone please help. I broke down due to a failed alternator. After getting the AA out they took the alternator out and got the car up and running so I could get it back to a garage. When he got power to the car the central locking starting clicking and keeps on clicking, doesn't respond to the Key and windows don't work either. I took out the fuse for the passenger side doors because the battery would drain as this clicking happens when the engine is switched off. the drivers side works fine when the fuse is out although there is no power to the passenger side doors. When the fuse is back in the door mirror moves up and down when I press the window button on the passenger door, the passenger rear door window is workable but needs pressed a couple times. I've had in a ford garage they were useless, also had it in a car electrics garage still no luck from them. Please can anyone shed some light on this as it is driving me crazy.

Edited by Lmg6208 - 19 Jun 2017 at 8:14pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fillco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jun 2017 at 8:43pm
If you've had it in Ford and an electrical specialists, not sure what a Forum could do at a distance.

You say the AA took the alternator out, do you mean removed it and you drove the car back to a garage. Without the alternator did the electrics seem to work OK, i.e. no central locking clicking?

You say when he got power to the car, where did this power come from, had the alternator now been replaced?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lmg6208 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jun 2017 at 10:10pm
I got to the garage by powering up the battery via his van. Had to stop a couple times. There's was no alternator in. Electrics were fine until the battery got low and needed recharged. This clicking noise came about when the AA got the car going, it's constant but it's not locking or unlocking the car it jst constantly clicks but stops when I take the fuse out and I'm able to lock the driver side doors using the key but need to manually lock the others. Don't know if there's a something maybe fryed cause I tried to jumpstart it before phoning the AA. Yeh I was jst looking for any advice, like I say been to two garages and they're scratching they're heads

Edited by Lmg6208 - 19 Jun 2017 at 10:11pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fillco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2017 at 6:01am
Is an alternator now fitted?

Long shot would be if it hasnt been done already the whole system needs resetting by disconnecting the battery completely for 15 minutes or so.

You say the passenger door mirror moves when the passenger window button is operated, what happens if you operate the passenger window button on the drivers side?

Windows not operating correctly may just require each window resetting when you get other things sorted out.

Incorrect operation of passenger window and the clicking (is that all doors?) may point to the passenger door module being damaged, the clicking being that the door module thinks a lock switch isnt in the correct place so operates the lock solenoids. So it may just be a module, but proof would be further investigation and substitution.

AA  charged your battery up from his Van and how long did it take to put enough in your battery for you continue driving.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lmg6208 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2017 at 9:15am
Yes a new alternator is now fitted. You can't operate any of the windows from the drivers side when the fuse has been put back in. Yes the clicking happens on every door. Ford garage said they had put new modules in but it was a little to good to be true as the wrote off the bill after having it for 4 weeks. Took about 10-15 minutes at first then a couple stops about 5 minute recharge each in a 20-30 minute journey home form work. I've had a new door mechanism for drivers side fitted as there was a short wire but didn't seem to work but when they took the old one out the clicking noise stopped then restarted when fitted the new one. All wires leading to the passenger side fuse box has been checked and were all ok. At first I was disconnecting the battery as I stopped and wasn't using the car but it was a pain in the a*se so decided to take a fuse out instead. Might buy a new module for each door and get them fitted. Wat about corrosion leading to the door maybe?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hillybilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2017 at 9:45am
If all was ok before the alternator issue then you need to talk too the AA and the garage that fitted the alternator.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fillco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2017 at 10:20am
4 weeks, goodness, I guess he kept walking away from the job and thinking about it and to note make progress doesn't sound good.

George pre-empted my next question, did the clicking occur when you were driving home under only battery power or only since the fitting of the alternator? Trying to get a feel of when the damage occurred to give some indication of extent and what may be damaged.

My feeling is that one or more modules are damaged but how and what damaged them and its still possibly that one of the door modules is thinking a door sensor is in the wrong position. The window button operating the door mirror should give a clue that either the drivers or passengers door module is faulty but if they have been swapped out and no effect you say.

Id try disconnecting drivers module and then passenger and see what effect it has.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lmg6208 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2017 at 12:45pm
Yeh said he had other jobs but it was the kind of job that required time. It jst started as soon as the AA got power to the car outside my work which led me to think maybe something happened when I tried to jumpstart it, maybe sent a shock somewhere. I'll go away and fit a module on the drivers and passenger side door see how I get on. Hopefully that helps. Might take a week before they get fitted time I order them in but I'll get back in touch and let you know how I got on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fillco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2017 at 1:02pm
Oh, this sounds ominous. Yes he could have zapped a module or two.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lmg6208 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2017 at 12:18pm
Ok so i ordered the wrong modules🙈. Have you got an email address I could send a video to. Jst to give a better indication of wats happening?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote granville_kuga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2017 at 11:38pm
I think you will have caused major electrical problems by running the engine without the alternator connected maybe damaged the ECU
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fillco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2017 at 6:57am
Thats a shame, did you just try disconnecting drivers module and then passenger and see what effect it had. I.e. does its stop? I think the module substitution is going to be the first stage as symptoms can be so unpredictable if they have been damaged due to a transient spike and theories don't follow the norm. Plus two garages failing to make progress. Ford garage may have substituted the modules and found it didn't do any good and removed them, but you need to know that they did substitute the modules.

When you say you tried jump starting it, how? Did you do it from another car with its engine running?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lmg6208 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2017 at 7:08pm
No just that they were the wrong ones and didn't go any further, I know when the door mechanism was taking off the drivers side the clicking stopped, I bought a brand new one but when fitted the noise Reappeared. They said to me they had a a donor car and swapped parts over but again jst as you said I need to know that they done it. Yeh from another car sure the engine was running but it was back in January so can't be sure. It's strange that the key fob doesn't work when the fuse has been put back but when it's out it works no problem. Could it be an ECU problem maybe?


Video should be sent now via the email address you sent me

Edited by Lmg6208 - 04 Jul 2017 at 7:24pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lmg6208 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2017 at 7:12pm
This happened as soon as there was power brought back to the car which made me think maybe something got damaged when i tried to jumpstart the car.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fillco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2017 at 6:13am
January, is that when all this started?

Jump starting a car while the donor engine is running I would never ever do, even if the AA man or whoever does this and I would contest the instructions in the Ford handbook too. Two alternators and 2 batteries connected together, no thank you, and its not necessary.

Hi Liam. OK the video shows exactly what your saying. The door locking I'm not too sure what to think on that but the fact that the door modules take the door lock position via switches so this again looks like a module problem from any door.

So bearing in mind that the front passenger window doesn't operate the window but the mirror instead, we could be almost be certain that the module is damaged. Why none of the windows can be operated from the drivers side could be the drivers side door module and/or both rear modules as well as both front.

Just so I can get my head round what works and doesn't work when fuse is in or not.

What is the fuse number and location your pulling out

So operating front passenger window from the drivers side doesn't work, but does it operate the passenger door mirror instead (like the passenger side switch)?

In what way does your key fob work when fuse is out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lmg6208 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2017 at 6:19pm
So fitting a new module to every door sounds like the first thing I need to do?

Fuse number 133, ampere rating 25. The central locking relays passenger door module. So pretty much the front passenger and rear passenger doors have no power to them, it was the only way to stop the clicking. Took out the drivers side fuse to begin with but that's the side that obviously gets most use.

No can't operate anything from the drivers side to the passenger side when the fuse is in.

When the fuse is out the key fob locks and opens the drivers side front and rear and the boot then I need to manually lock and open the passenger front and rear from the inside. When the fuse is in it only operates the boot but doesn't operate any of the doors.

Edited by Lmg6208 - 05 Jul 2017 at 6:20pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fillco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2017 at 6:38pm
You may only need the front Door modules if F133 is holding off the other modules. I think its where to start as a faulty module may not only fail to operate but also inhibit the CANBUS to each module.

Anything can happen with a 'Fry Up'
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lmg6208 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2017 at 6:56pm
Ok cheers I'll go try that see wat happens. I'll be in touch
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