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AWD Malfunction / Haldex servicing info

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Chalky32 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chalky32 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2017 at 10:42am
We also had a Haldex problem on our Kuga AWD, Engine -2.0L Duratorq DOHC(150/163PS)-DW10C, Its a 2012 manufactured car.  We had the AWD warning light coming up and it had just come out of warranty, I was getting fobbed off a bit, however armed with the info from this website I went back and Ford agreed to replace it. They did however replace it with the same type as the part number was the same apparently, the bloke who I had contact with actually gave me the old one too, I think the car had only done about 25000 miles then, however now it has done 30,000 miles we are getting an alarming knocking noise (you can feel it too) when slowing down.
Would anyone have any suggestions what this could be please ?? 
I would also like to replace oil etc in the new Haldex, I understand that Volvo is the best place to get parts from but am curious as to the type and amount of oil needed for it, also parts for the rear axle so that I can do them together.

We love the car but due to this problem we will be getting rid of it to purchase a similar car from another manufacturer, Ford really are letting their customers down.
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Andywsr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andywsr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2017 at 11:17am
Get parts from www.haldexparts.com Way cheaper than Ford. I've just replaced my pump and filter for £265. They can supply oil as well but I already had some. I've just re ordered a new filter and 2x oil for £70. So I've got a spare. The parts supplied are identical to the originals. Even down to the markings on the pump casing.
My grinding noise, which is similar to what you describe has now gone. I removed fuse 130 from the fuse box in the passenger foot well when mine started grinding to prevent further damage. You will get the AWD MALFUNCTION warning and the Stability control light will be lit.
Better than risking damaging the clutches in the Haldex. Because I don't think they are replaceable.
2008 2.0 136 Awd in Chill. Xenons, Retractable towbar, rear bumper protector in stainless steel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chalky32 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2017 at 3:04pm
Thanks for that Andy I appreciate it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andywsr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2017 at 3:59pm
Hi all,

Today I have taken my old Haldex pump apart.

When it and the filter was changed they were part clogged with a Green jelly like substance. This is degraded oil. This was undoubtedly the cause of all the trouble. I intend to change both the oil and filter again in about 6 weeks, using a vacuum to siphon out the old oil. I also have an endoscope camera so I'm going to have a look inside the casing at the same time.
When I opened up the pump it was part blocking the main oil galleries
I have taken some photos, but unfortunately didn't think to do so until after I'd started cleaning the parts.
I have tried to upload the photos but failed. Even the smallest I can make them is too big.
2008 2.0 136 Awd in Chill. Xenons, Retractable towbar, rear bumper protector in stainless steel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote speedy_snail Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2017 at 5:28pm
CALLING ANYBODY THAT HAS DONE THIS JOB BEFORE!

My 2010 AWD with 63k miles on has started to display an intermittent AWD Malfunction message on the dash. There is no noise or roughness coming from the Haldex unit that I can feel or hear.

I plan to order these parts:

Oil - https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/fluids/ford-volvo-haldex-transmission-oil/

Filter - https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/filters/ford-kuga-haldex-filter-kit-9v4n4a319aa/

I will pretty much follow the procedure in this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZNC06Z7imQ&feature=youtu.be

My questions are:

1, Do I just need 1 container of oil?

2, Were you able to remove the pump without having to disconnect the drive shaft or file down the housing as in the video?

3, Is there a more accurate way of refilling it with fresh oil, other than 'fill to spill' then removing 40ml?

Any other helpful hints and tips would be much appreciated! Thanks.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andywsr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2017 at 6:25pm
If your ordering from Haldex. You will only need 1 oil. It's supplied as 1 litre of Volvo oil.
Unless you are removing the pump you don't need to remove the prop shaft.

Capacity of the unit is 800ml. You will need to suck out the old oil via the filler using a suitable oil extractor and inject the new oil in. It's awkward as there's a bracket obscuring the hole.

Fill until over flows. Them start engine to fill new filter. Switch off and check level. Level should be 5mm below the hole. Use a bent cable for to measure the level.
2008 2.0 136 Awd in Chill. Xenons, Retractable towbar, rear bumper protector in stainless steel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andywsr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2017 at 8:02pm
You cannot remove the pump with the drive flange in place on a Haldex 3 unit. So you have to disconnect the Prop.

You don't need to file anything.

Did mine on a ramp. Would be really awkward doing it on the floor
2008 2.0 136 Awd in Chill. Xenons, Retractable towbar, rear bumper protector in stainless steel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tarmo120 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2017 at 8:46pm
Originally posted by Andywsr Andywsr wrote:

You cannot remove the pump with the drive flange in place on a Haldex 3 unit. So you have to disconnect the Prop.

You don't need to file anything.

Did mine on a ramp. Would be really awkward doing it on the floor


On Haldex 3rd Gen you should release the rer end of the prop shaft, but don't need to remove completely.
Just wiggle it out of the flange and tie it so it doesn't rest in  bind. This is just precaution to have no issues later with the prop shaft.
Then using an airgun take off the flange nut and remove flange. Quite simple really. One thing to note, is it is recommended to mark the orientation where the flange and prop shaft meet. I mean the holes.
That way you will put everything back as they were, and you should not have issues with propshaft being unbalanced.

Now for removing oil, I just cracked open the whole Haldex unit, and gave it a wiggle.
That way all the oil leaked out between the Haldex and differential housing.
Later filled with a syringe.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andywsr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2017 at 8:59pm
If you've gone that far you may aswell take it out and do it on a bench.

I wasn't brave enough to break the seal between the diff and Haldex. I've had it replaced once already the seal was about £28
2008 2.0 136 Awd in Chill. Xenons, Retractable towbar, rear bumper protector in stainless steel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tarmo120 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2017 at 9:15pm
Originally posted by Andywsr Andywsr wrote:

If you've gone that far you may aswell take it out and do it on a bench.

I wasn't brave enough to break the seal between the diff and Haldex. I've had it replaced once already the seal was about £28


Yeah I did that. Along with cleaning everything and inspecting the discs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote speedy_snail Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2017 at 10:54pm
Thanks for the replies, that's all really useful information.

I was going to remove the pump just to clean it up inside, as per the video. However, if it requires the drive shaft being disconnected, I might just leave it.

Mine is a 2010 car, had a look underneath, and pretty sure it is a 4th gen. Does the drive shaft still need disconnecting, or is that just for 3rd gen?

I don't have a pump to suck out the old oil. Or ramps. Am beginning to think it might be worth buying the parts and getting a garage to do the work!?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tarmo120 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2017 at 2:43pm
Well if you are interested in how things work and have some idea how to take apart and put back together, I'd recommend do it yourself.
I am not familiar with Gen4 when it comes to pump removal. But I recommend you to clean the mesh on the pump. Somewhere here were pictures I took when I had mine open. And what I found inside the pump and filter.
Clean everything you can, and definitely clean the pump mesh.
From personal experience, it really sucks when your (at the time) 5 year old car has a faulty Haldex. And all the dealer wants, is you to buy a new (4500eur) rear differential with Haldex...
Better to keep things clean.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chalky32 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Oct 2017 at 8:52pm
Good Evening all, I have a 2012 auto 4x4 Kuga that has had Haldex problems, eventually Ford replaced it as it was just outside the 3 year warranty & only covered 26K, this was after they replaced oil, however as I was armed with info from this website I managed to shoot down all their arguments.
It has now done 31k and we have had a bit of a knock from the back as if we had changed down a gear too quick with a manual gearbox, I was considering changing oil & filters but after getting loads of freely given advice from Mathew at info@autofaultfinder.com, I removed the wires from the unit. We had the AWD fault come up but the noise/knock went, drove it for a week and reconnected wiring, it’s behaving so far.
As our car was built in 2012 can anyone tell me how to find out if it’s MK1 or MK2 .
Could anyone please tell me if the 2017 model AWD Kuga has a Haldex unit fitted, a salesman told me yesterday when I questioned him that the new unit fitted ( he didn’t know what it was) was not a serviceable item and if it fails you replace it.
I believe that this has been Fords problem all along, any knowledge on this would be appreciated as we are selling ours and I won’t buy another one if they still have the same units fitted.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chalky32 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Oct 2017 at 8:55pm
Apologies I didn’t put in that Ford replaced the Haldex unit, the latest problem is after the car has done about 5.5K after fitting.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tarmo120 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Oct 2017 at 10:11pm
New Kugas don't have Haldex. Ford now uses some different system.
I have no further info on this.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chalky32 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Oct 2017 at 2:45pm
Thank you Tarmo I appreciate that, I would be interested if anyone knows what is fitted in the 2017 AWD Kuga as I would not buy on other one if it were the same.

All the best
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