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ALL Mk1 engine management & DPF issues & info

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Philrad View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Philrad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 2016 at 8:23am
Hi Guys. For all those with sensor issues. I replaced the DPF sensor to no avail on my MK1. Eventualy I stripped back the short stretch of wiring from the engine loom to the sensor on the battery which flexes with the engine and lo and behold found 2 strands broken. I loosened the wire from its cable ties and reconnected using bullet connectors. and left it in a more flexible state. has been ok since. hope this helps.
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Fillco View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fillco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 2016 at 10:51am
Did you mean 2 strands or 2 cables. I woulds have thought 2 strands in a cable would cause you problems, but the action of disconnecting a connector could have cleaned the contacts of the connector if they were oxidised.
Kuga Titanium X Sport 180 Manual(AWD), Magnetic (with a few extras). March 2016.
Makes you want to drive it, though not necessarily buy it.
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Teddy f View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Teddy f Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Aug 2016 at 12:30pm
Right here goes my DPF engine malfunction DIY fix and I hope I could help out.

After a 350 mile motorway journey the next day after a smaller 6 mile run I had the engine management light come on. Instinct tells me it's a sensor, not a blocked DPF after the long journey.
Codes p2456, 2452,246B,2463.
Usual check on all pipes and Spring clips for cracks rips etc... All fine

Exhaust sensors before and after DPF, before DPF a little sooty but not caked, the after was clean as a whistle. Spanner get them out

Removed the DPF sensor located on the battery case (code ending with AA) checked inside carefully with a cotton bud for condensation. Yep small water droplets inside so cleaned and dryed the sensor.

Pressure tested the pipes with a compressor air gun for leaks and that was fine.

Reset the engine management and test drove in high revs 3/3.5 rpm along the motorway for 20/30 minutes and the car was back to no warning lights.

Now 2 days later the engine management light returned with the engine fault again warning, this time with the lack of power. Limp mode

Replace the DPF sensor with a secondhand like for like working part, now you can only take someone's word on this but for £20 it's a worthwhile punt. Wasn't shelling out £250 for a new one or £60 for a fake copy.

Reset the codes and again 20/30 mins 3000 revs along the ARoad and on my next start up the kuga has no more issues. One week later a few 100 miles it's still going strong.

So thanks guys I took all your solutions on the DPF posts to find and fix this particular annoying fault.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote spanner555 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Aug 2016 at 1:29pm
Good post teddy. I'll remember this if I have any dpf issues.
My brother in laws mondeo had problems with the pipes on his dpf a few weeks back. Turned out to be a much cheaper fix than a new dpf.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ou toppie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2016 at 5:45pm
Hi All,

Further to my post of 27 July.
I have been doing some research re getting a signal when a regen starts and it seems to me that the easiest way to do this is by having an exhaust gas temperature gauge which will show when the ecu has started the extra diesel input to increase the exhaust temperature for the burn off.
The exhaust temp probe at the dpf has an electrical connector which goes into a harness. Are there any auto electricians out there that can determine how to pick up a signal from this connector to send to a retrofit EGT gauge as well as its real purpose of sending a signal to the ECU.
Mike
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Nov 2011, Titanium S,Frozen White,2.0lt Diesel, AWD, Auto, Pan roof, f/fitted Rear Camera, Speech Rec, f/fitted DLR's, 17Inch wheels
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fillco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2016 at 5:56pm
Oh if it could be that simple Mike and I doubt very much it will be.

The best way of measuring a step change in exhaust temperature without compromising operation of the existing EGT probe would be to fix a temperature probe (thermocouple, PT1000 or whatever) externally as near as possible to the existing EGT and run that to a suitable meter and observe the temperature.

Kuga Titanium X Sport 180 Manual(AWD), Magnetic (with a few extras). March 2016.
Makes you want to drive it, though not necessarily buy it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote suzeyp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Sep 2016 at 8:38am
My 2010 Kuga has engine malfunction light on.  Had a problem with DPf filter a year ago and a sensor was replaced which fixed the problem.  Now the fault coming up is P244c exhaust temperature too low for particulate filter regeneration Bank 1.
 
Any ideas where to start??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wpecan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 12:48pm
Originally posted by redjag redjag wrote:

Hi all.

I have not been on here for a while,but would just like to share my experiences with the fault code P2002 DPF code.

Most of my driving is done on the motorway and always over 30mins.in duration so I was surprised to have the fault light come on after a 100mile journey,I cleared code at the time ( always carry fault code reader in boot)but 2 days later the code popped up again.
So up on the ramps it went so I could understand the workings.
Looking at the exhaust you have what looks like a silencer with a tin heat shield on it's underside,this is the DPF.On the leading edge you will find two rubber pipes fitted to two metal spigots attached to each other with a small steel cross piece.these pipes from the front and rear of DPF then go forward and up to the filter differential pressure switch.
Now for my trick, I removed completely the lower,e.g. nearest to the ground rubber pipe approx 500mm long by releasing spring clips at both ends,now you can drain any liquid from it then get a piece of electrical wire or similar and poke through without damaging pipe.
In my case there was about a half teaspoon of black crud blocking pipe,so therefor the pressure switch was not getting a reading from front of the DPF but getting a reading from the back.Result switch confused.

I have driven the car now for 2000 miles and have just checked for any codes .non found cost of fix £0

2010 Ford Kuga in Vision 40000miles and tailpipes still shining.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wpecan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 12:55pm
Engine light came on yesterday. Next day decided to go and buy a code reader. Sure enough started up and light came on but thought I would give this a try before I set off. Off came the tube, a little puff of dust dropped out. Pushed pipe back on then back in the drivers seat, pressed start and bingo...light gone.
Five minutes of time. It has got to be worth a try. You can get under the car to do it without jacking it up.
Many thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WestCountryKuga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2017 at 7:33am
Just thought I would add to this thread.
Bought a 2010 Kuga Titanium 2.0TDCi a month back.
The dreaded "bong" Engine malfunction sound, light and message on the dash. Called out AA, who fault coded it as P269F. There is no limp mode with this fault code alone, drive like normal, and turning car on / off extinguishes the warning until the next drive when temps rise to normal and revs trigger a regen attempt on the DPF.

The posts in this forum about this fault code and the TSB from Ford are all you need.
I checked the fuse box and F15 (20A J-Type slow blow) had gone.
Manual says "not used" and fuse box cover has a fan symbol, but knowing how many errors are in the manual, I promptly ignored that and followed my nose.
Replaced the fuse (approx £5) and next journey it was gone again.
Had the fuel vaporizer and fuse replaced and 50 miles later on a motorway run, no light and hopefully a regen cycle run.
All in all £211+vat for the vaporizer, £5 for the fuse and 1.5 hours labour at the garage.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nelly001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2017 at 2:52pm
hi my first post so be gentle.ive owned my kuga 2.0 diesel now for a year without any major problems until the eml light came on the other day so i went straight to a friends garage where he plugged it into computer and came up with fault code p 2002.he did a forced regen on it and put the light out which lasted about 15 miles before coming back on.went back today plugged it in same code p2002 so he just cleared the code and put the light out but i know its only a matter of time until it comes back on.i have read this thread right through and i think my best bet would be to get a new dpf sensor and see if that does it.i had just done an oil change and noticed too much oil came out as  it was over the mark on the dip stick even though i had never topped it up .does anyone have a ebay link to a good sensor that has worked for them or am i forced to pay ford prices thanks in advance .o and i was thinking of getting a code reader so any info on those would be good too
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